Thread Number: 84924
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
A806 double stem seals-opinions |
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Post# 1093909 , Reply# 1   10/20/2020 at 23:07 (888 days old) by qsd-dan ![]() |
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I used this method in all of my restorations including the daily driver rig, a 1975 HA806 washer, that I did a full rebuild in 2009. 11 years of churning out laundry and zero failures on that machine (as well as the rest of them). Why not double your pleasure and double your fun by taking a $10-$15 chance on that 0A4298 seal as an extra precaution to save both an NLA agitator shaft, upper sleeve bearing, and risk contaminating the transmission with water.
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Post# 1093937 , Reply# 2   10/21/2020 at 07:12 (887 days old) by combo52 ![]() |
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![]() I do not have any information for you as I have not tried it,
My fear in doing this is putting the old style seal under the new lip style seal may put too much pressure upwards against the lip seal and either dislodge it or distort it and render it ineffective.
The old style seal needed a lot of pressure to work, it used a strong clip ring and a SS washer to maintain pressure against the seal to work.
Given that Maytags would usually last at least 20 years in the seal area if either type seal was used we will probably never have any accurate data to support the idea that two seals helped.
John L. |
Post# 1093942 , Reply# 3   10/21/2020 at 08:09 (887 days old) by Sudster ()   |   | |
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The Red Carpet Drew thread is --25520 -Changing a Maytag tub bearing and seal: A how to. Has anyone else used his idea? |
Post# 1093959 , Reply# 4   10/21/2020 at 11:34 (887 days old) by LowEfficiency ![]() |
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![]() >> Given that Maytags would usually last at least 20 years in the seal area if >> either type seal was used we will probably never have any accurate data to >> support the idea that two seals helped. I'll second this. Not a vote for or against the double-seal, just that short of inventing a time machine, or setting up 24/7 accelerated wear bench tests and waiting months/years for results, there is really no practical way to know how things will settle out. And some machines are waaaaaay past 20 years before they give any signs of trouble. If you're planning to keep a rebuilt machine running for 20+ years from today, I'd say the best option is to buy a low-mileage parts donor machine while you can still find them, and stash away the entire spare transmission and related wear parts, plus a new seal kit. That way you're covered if/when the seal leaks, and you're covered for any other mechanical wear or damage that comes with time as well. |
Post# 1094047 , Reply# 7   10/22/2020 at 08:40 (886 days old) by swestoyz ![]() |
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The folks you are hoping/expecting to step-up haven't posted on AW in quite sometime, and probably have no idea this post exists (Drew, Brian, etc.).
This subject has almost become so taboo that people are tired of the back and forth dialog about the pro's and con's and don't want to get in the middle of the crossfire. Your last post leads me to believe you've made a decision on which way to go, which is great. If installing both seals did leak at some point you have the luxury of this being a hobby where you can fix an issue yourself; if this was being done as a service for a customer - that is where I'd get weary of implementing this experiment. Ben |
Post# 1094051 , Reply# 9   10/22/2020 at 11:27 (886 days old) by LowEfficiency ![]() |
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![]() >> I'm not trying to annoy at all this is important to me. If that's true, you might try changing your tone a bit... because your wording in prior posts completely blows off those trying to help, and it sure sounds like you're trying to stir the pot. I'm not trying to put you on the defensive - I'm just saying that that's the vibe your posts have to the rest of us. Back on topic, my mother's A308, with the original-style seal, had its first seal replacement after 39 years of service. That's anecdotal data of course, but it's what you asked for. |