Thread Number: 85599  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
A806 A702 Project
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Post# 1101533   12/21/2020 at 17:24 (826 days old) by Sudster ()        

I have torn down the A702 with the A806 internals that came to me through Ben & Tyler. The buildup on the outer tub brought out the worst in me. I even used Hydrochloric acid ,plastic spatula tools and stiff brushes. It worked but there's a couple rusty pitted areas I will have to deal with.

 

For those who scoff at the brake removal tool,I wish you had been there. I drenched 2 shirts with sweat and the only way I got it loose was a jack stand sideways under the transmission , The next day I found my brake tool!!! There was what looked like white pipe dope on the threads.see pics

 

I will add more info as it goes along, Also the tub bolt washers were pure flat lead washers ???


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Post# 1101968 , Reply# 1   12/25/2020 at 15:22 (822 days old) by Sudster ()        
A806 A702 project

 Base painted with legs & rubber feet. Lots of prep,sanding and sweat. Motor carriage glides and springs with the motor being lightly painted and adding an oil port for the wick. Brand new NOS transmission with the new style bottom seal. The wiring was not cut,Those pigtails are just in case the sticker flies away. This is a lot of work as most of you know. It is fun and rewarding though.  The tub drama is coming soon.


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Post# 1101979 , Reply# 2   12/25/2020 at 17:04 (822 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture

Wow!  You must be the luckiest man in the world to find a NOS transmission!  I look forward to seeing the finished project!


Post# 1102010 , Reply# 3   12/25/2020 at 23:16 (822 days old) by Sudster ()        
LUCKY--OK

Thanks Bill,

 

                I'm unsure if lucky or cursed is the right descriptive in this case. I have been storing parts for these machines for many years in anticipation of this event. I have read and studied multiple threads and gathered what I liked and what I didn't concerning the restoration of these machines. I am building the A806 from true internals yet using an A108 cabinet and an A806 console & wiring. Mechanically it will be a true A806 although I will slightly modify the timed bleach dispenser ,trim,and tub lighting. Stay tuned it will be a blast, I guarantee it.--Joe

                


Post# 1102028 , Reply# 4   12/26/2020 at 07:53 (822 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
A806 Rebuild

combo52's profile picture

Looking Good Joseph, I looked and we do not have the Chrome trim you Emailed me about for the top of the front panels.

 

For your ultimate rebuild I would look for a round or even a square Emerson motor, they were quieter running than the welded together GE motors, definitely add a start capacitor as well so you can achieve proper belt adjustments without excessive belt slip during agitation.

 

What  went wrong trying to remove the brake assembly ?

 

It is a simple 5 step process

 

1 Lay washer on side & remove main drive pulley.

 

2 Remove locking bolt and clip.

 

3 spray a little penetrating oil on brake assembly threads.

 

4 Take a large locking vise-grip pliers and lock it on the edge of the brake assembly [ just ahead of one of the screws that hold the brake together if it the older style BA ]

 

5 take at least a 16 oz hammer and one or two blows on the side of the Vice-Grip jaws has always removed the BA easily.

 

John L.


Post# 1102035 , Reply# 5   12/26/2020 at 08:59 (822 days old) by Sudster ()        

Thanks for looking John,

 

  That brake removal was a bear and I have no logical explanation. The A108 brake was knocked loose with 3 whacks but this one was so tough I deformed it. It looked as though it had white pipe sealant when assembled.I'll just use the 108 brake.

 

I do believe I have that Emerson motor on my A310 but it is currently in use and since this one has been lubed and bolted on, I will run it til the cows come home.

 

I appreciate you and all who make this possible.Without all those rebuild threads, I wouldn't think of trying this.After many years of reading, I am on it! thanks--Joe


Post# 1102210 , Reply# 6   12/27/2020 at 15:09 (820 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

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Looks like it's coming along nicely.

I assume you're going to POR15 the outer tub? It's the best way to preserve it from rust.

Nice job polishing the aluminum damper. I polish them with a brass wire wheel, clean, then clear coat to retain its luster.

Check and clean the bleach tank and hoses. It's common for the lower port to plug up, which will cause water to flow backwards and pour out of the bleach dispenser during the spin cycle.

The motor looks like a 1980's GE 2 speed 1/3 horsepower unit. You can upgrade to a 1/2 hp motor that Maytag used the last 10 years of the Dependable Care washer line.

Nice score on an NOS transmission!

I would highly recommend purchasing a new brake package. They are still available new and probably won't be around much longer. The first 3 complete rebuilds I did, I reused the old brake package and they were all soon slipping, if not immediately after the rebuild. The internal spring gets weak after decades of being under tension and can't hold the tub stationary. Replacing them was SOP after that but I was swiping them from ebay for $15-$25 back then (they're pushing $100 now). I have experimented with disassembling older non-sealed brake packages and shimming the spring with washers, successfully regaining lost spring tension.....if you want to go that route.

Just an FYI, you assembled the sliding baseplate on the motor backwards. It's currently setup to clutch the opposite direction. Also, the ground wire attaches to the right rear motor stud between the motor and baseplate. You currently have it in the right front stud.

There's only one person on this forum who has yet to learn how to use a Maytag brake tool. I have had 100% success using one for the last 15 years and would never be without it!


Post# 1102223 , Reply# 7   12/27/2020 at 16:55 (820 days old) by Sudster ()        

Thanks Dan,

 

        That motor carriage makes me feel like a fool . Of course I would have caught it  but still--That's dumb .

 

  I opted for the KBS system for the outer tub which was a runny mess and probably won't be included in the photo lineup .I had read that folks believed por-15 was not the same as years ago so I phoned KBS  and they talked me into it . I regret it now but it's coated .

 

 On your advice I'll get a new brake because this will be my main machine .Will  you please outline the details on shimming the brake? I know how to safely disassemble it but the shim size etc. would be nice to know.  One of these machines around here is getting that A108 brake-Period

 

John also brought up increasing the motor HP-  What does it improve and why have these old 1/3hp models lasted 30 years?

 

Finally--Please discuss proper brake tool useage

 

I consider you one of the true masters and have read your posts from way back when. Your advice is really appreciated-Thanks-Joe

 


Post# 1102438 , Reply# 8   12/29/2020 at 18:35 (818 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

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Bah, don't worry about the motor carriage. The first time I took one apart I was going to mark all 3 pieces with a grease pencil for easy reassembly, then laziness kicked in and decided not to. I ended up taking the whole works apart 2 more times before I got everything oriented like it was from the factory. Everybody starts somewhere ;)

In the near future, I'll dig out one of my spare brake packages and do a pictorial step by step disassembly/reassembly. I'll also explain how to shim the spring to regain tension. I could try to explain it off the top of my head but I can't remember the inner/outer diameter washer sizes and I may forget a step or 2 in the process. The last time I took one apart was about 5 years ago.

The 1/2 HP motor is built a bit more rugged and has a little more power. For a machine that's in proper working order, there's no noticeable difference in the agitation cycle. Where you'll see the difference is during the ramp up of the spin cycle but once up to speed, eh, not so much.

I wouldn't consider myself a master, just someone who is greatly interested in these machines and got my hands dirty as much as possible.....arguably to levels of insanity. The more one fools around with these, the quicker you'll get and find inquisitive ways to repair problems and become more efficient. It's fun coming across different issues, especially the wacky and rare ones, and then figuring them out. Also, when the manual indicates areas that shouldn't be fooled with or "take to the dealer/send to the factory" for repairs.....well, I consider that a challenge :)


Post# 1102449 , Reply# 9   12/29/2020 at 20:36 (818 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Automatic Washer Horse-Power

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AWs almost universally had 1/3 HP motors, I was always pleased that Maytag resisted the silly move to 1/2 HP motors that every other American manufacturer jumped to during the 60s. All these higher HP motors ever did is waste untold amounts of power.

 

The only thing putting a 1/2 HP motor on a DC MT will do is use 20% more electricity and may ruin the timer and WL switch contacts, it will not work any better.

 

MT DC machines have often had problems with the motor starting at the start of spin, the best thing you can do to tweak a MTs starting ability is adding a start capacitor to the motors start winding.

 

John L.

 

 

 


Post# 1102905 , Reply# 10   1/2/2021 at 16:37 (814 days old) by Sudster ()        
UPDATE

Between the rain and waiting on the postal service for the remaining parts, We are right close to re-assembly day. I obtained a NOS brake and got it quick-Go Fedex! The control panel is finished.

 


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This post was last edited 01/02/2021 at 21:29
Post# 1102907 , Reply# 11   1/2/2021 at 16:44 (814 days old) by kenwashesmonday (Carlstadt, NJ)        

Looks very nice.  This machine is going to be a honey!


Post# 1102908 , Reply# 12   1/2/2021 at 16:48 (814 days old) by Sudster ()        

As stated we are almost ready for assembly but I need your thoughts on a couple things:

 

 

1--- I have a NOS that some say was a somewhat serviceable tub bearing  204013-I also have the new style 204013 which can't be oiled--Which should I use?

2--Since this Brake is also new, Should oil be added?

 

I have more questions as the machine comes together and will lean on you all as we go--thank you--Joe

 




This post was last edited 01/02/2021 at 18:49
Post# 1102924 , Reply# 13   1/2/2021 at 18:44 (814 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
serviceable tub bearing 204013 Which should I use?

Use the old style bearing with the oil wick and shoot some extra turbine oil in there in case it dried out a little over the years.

Save the new tub bearing for a lesser re-build.


Post# 1102925 , Reply# 14   1/2/2021 at 18:51 (814 days old) by Sudster ()        

Thanks--I messed up again --Both the new & old tub bearings have the same number--204013.


Post# 1102929 , Reply# 15   1/2/2021 at 19:18 (814 days old) by Lorainfurniture (Cleveland )        

The brake should be ready to install, however it may not hurt to squirt a bit of wd-40 just to soften things up. If you apply to much it will just slip for several loads. If not enough it will squeak loudly and there is no way to properly lube with it installed.

Iíve never seen any different sleeve bearings before, they all seem to look the same. A thin coat of oil wouldnít hurt.

You may be mistaken for the tub seal. The old style 2 piece tub seal required lube. The newer one piece style is installed with no lube on the facing seal.


Post# 1102932 , Reply# 16   1/2/2021 at 19:43 (814 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
Brand new NOS transmission

I'd love see what oil in a unused NOS long stroke MT trans looks like.

By the time we get around to opening them up it has the consistency of molasses.


Post# 1102934 , Reply# 17   1/2/2021 at 20:06 (814 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
MT Tub Bearing and New Brake

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You can use either top tub bearing the original that had extra oil wick was found to be of no value as these bearings never fail unless water gets past the main seal. I always with either type bearing squirt turban oil on top of the bearing once it is installed with the machine upright before you install the mounting stem.

 

If when you lay the new brake assembly on its side you can't see any thick oil go ahead and add several tablespoons of transmission oil, you can't over oil the brake within reason.

 

It is easy to add oil to the brake once installed, just lay the washer on its side and use a pump bottle and squirt some in through the holes in the main drive pulley.

 

John L.


Post# 1102946 , Reply# 18   1/2/2021 at 21:17 (814 days old) by Sudster ()        
Thanks Everyone

1--EUGENE -Thank you and may I state that I appreciate your response even though I created some havoc in our early forum relationship, It certainly shows great character on your behalf to step up and offer advice--I salute you and admire your graciousness.

     I need to know what Maytag  suggested concerning brake oil,especially a new one. Some say oil yet you suggest WD40-please explain--I mixed up the bearing and stem numbers but my stem and boot questions will be next up-with pics. Again ,thanks for helping

 

2--Douglas--Thanks for the flowers on progress thus far. Transmission oil is exactly as you described.

    When I removed it from the box I studied how to determine oil capacity/condition etc.--I looked back through the AW threads & posts then turned the trans shaft down in the box. I'd walk past it  every day & spin the bottom shaft with my fingers CCW. After 2 days I could see a faint light brown film emerge from the shaft bushing. I went back to the workshop,removed the trans weight and weighed myself holding the OLD AND new transmissions separately. They were almost identical on a digital scale.

 

3--John--Thanks, I am still foggy on the old vs new drum bearings.  I have read all the way back to 2008 thoroughly and RCD states he could always stop  a squeak by adding oil to the old style. You claim --No leaks-No squeaks, Please elaborate--I appreciate all--Joe


Post# 1102949 , Reply# 19   1/2/2021 at 21:52 (814 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Conn)        
Tub bearing wear

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Those bronze bushings never wear out under normal use? My A407 has a loud knock during spin which Im thinking is that bushing being shot

Post# 1102950 , Reply# 20   1/2/2021 at 21:53 (814 days old) by Sudster ()        
ALSO

Please help my brain with this---I understand the brake is supposed to LOCK the tub during agitation--Question-Who brought oil into this issue? Can anyone provide a document from maytag ? I understand wet clutch/brake technology from automotive transmissions yet this seems off & on brake pad class 101. Please explain.


Post# 1102955 , Reply# 21   1/2/2021 at 22:19 (814 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
suggest WD40-please explain

WD-40 in the brake is news to me.

I thought gear oil was the recommended lube.

As for the tub bearing, perhaps the oil wick style doesn't help much, but it can't hurt either.

I suspect the new style bearing was more of a cost cutting measure. Such as how Maytag went from a stainless steel ring on the boot seal to plastic.





Post# 1102985 , Reply# 22   1/3/2021 at 09:22 (814 days old) by Lorainfurniture (Cleveland )        
Wd-40

My thought process is that on a nos brake the grease is still there, just evaporated and mostly dry. Adding wd40 will soften up the existing grease, thus renewing it.

If you want to do it 100%, dismantle it and rub oil/ grease on the brake pad.

The spring is so strong grease wonít let it slip.


Post# 1103017 , Reply# 23   1/3/2021 at 15:14 (813 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
MT Helical Drive Brake

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Reread post 17, Do Not waste your time taking the new brake apart,

 

Add transmission oil if non is seen as Maytag describes, this is not complicated.

 

Worn Tub Bearing In A MT A407, the noise may be a worn bearing, your washer is FIFTY YEARS OLD, and if you take it apart it has probably gotten a little moisture in the bearing.

 

John 


Post# 1103024 , Reply# 24   1/3/2021 at 15:57 (813 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
My A407 has a loud knock during spin

This Ebay seller has NOS tub bearings with the oil wick if you decide to replace the bearing in that A407.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gemline-LP341-B...









CLICK HERE TO GO TO Good-Shepherd's LINK on eBay


Post# 1103102 , Reply# 25   1/4/2021 at 06:29 (813 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
New Top Bearing For MT Washers

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Do keep in mind that this is an imitation Gemline part, while some GL parts have worked ok they were never the quality of MT OEM parts.

 

There is nothing wrong with a Genuine MT bearing with the old extra oil wick, But MT proved in tests and millions built that it was completely unnecessary so unless you have a great original one around you are wasting your time looking for one for a washer that is only going to be used for one or two people for maybe 5-30 years.

 

John L.


Post# 1103871 , Reply# 26   1/9/2021 at 18:25 (807 days old) by Sudster ()        
UPDATE

Thank you to everyone. I devoured all the advice and here is what has been accomplished

 

Since the brake is new but old stock, Eugene, It makes sense that grease is present so I added a teaspoon of gear oil to help it out. Also pictured is a NOS - NTN bearing.


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Post# 1103872 , Reply# 27   1/9/2021 at 18:28 (807 days old) by Sudster ()        

I attached that new brake & Tree with springs & transmission . All contact points treated with silicone grease,


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Post# 1103874 , Reply# 28   1/9/2021 at 18:36 (807 days old) by Sudster ()        

Tub bearing--John scared me off of the old nos bearing because it was indeed a Gemline and since I have no long term knowledge on this, I used the new style. New tub bolts with new boot & stem with Dan's suggestion of  the additional seal 02498 which did not seem to be an issue at all.


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Post# 1103875 , Reply# 29   1/9/2021 at 18:38 (807 days old) by Sudster ()        

So here we are with a question. Can't I jump the motor  and put her in spin mode now to seat the boot and check for tub balance??


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Post# 1103892 , Reply# 30   1/9/2021 at 20:53 (807 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Conn)        

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Is the Gemline tub bearing that bad? I just bought one for my A407 thinking it should be fine esp after I soak the felt with Zoom Spout

Post# 1103896 , Reply# 31   1/9/2021 at 21:28 (807 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
Is the Gemline tub bearing that bad?

Combo52 was talking about Gemline vs. genuine Maytag OEM parts.

New Maytag FSP parts, for better or worse, are Whirlpool manufactured.

I wouldn't have any problem using one of those Gemline tub bearings.



Post# 1104041 , Reply# 32   1/10/2021 at 19:48 (806 days old) by Sudster ()        
New issue

The washer spins out  fine & agitates quietly. Perhaps that jumping the motor question was a little confusing for the pros' Here is a real brain teaser. Since this washer comes with the timed bleach dispenser it calls for Maytag pump 2-2203. The instructions for this pump require a 9/32 hole be drilled in the feed hole for bleach mix.  question --Why did my original pump have a little over a 1/8 hole from the factory? 9/32 is over 1/4 inch--I believe the tank size accepts about 1-1/2 cups of bleach and slowly disperses it through this small hole originally.

 

 

 I am thinking of all the complaints of bleach blow back  on these type units are because of  enlarging the hole- Thoughts?


Post# 1104044 , Reply# 33   1/10/2021 at 20:06 (806 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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@ Reply #18


you dont need to meet Eugene to realize thats who he is!....and there are many more like him....


Post# 1104045 , Reply# 34   1/10/2021 at 20:17 (806 days old) by Sudster ()        

Martin, I was recognizing Eugene for the brake advice he gave me. A thank you!!


Post# 1104057 , Reply# 35   1/10/2021 at 21:20 (806 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
MT DC Bleach Dispenser

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The MT pumps that I have seen that originally had the delayed bleach dispenser had what appeared to be around a 1/4" hole in the pump, 1/8" seems a little small as it could clog more easily.

 

What have the other MT experts seen ?

 

I always though calling this a timed dispenser was a little misleading as it gives you the impression that the bleach will be added at the proper time later in the wash cycle, when in reality all the bleach is in the wash water in about 60 seconds after the agitation begins and well before the detergent is barely dissolved, a proper timed dispenser would wait till the last 2-4 minutes of the wash period like MT does on their Neptunes.

 

John L.


Post# 1104346 , Reply# 36   1/12/2021 at 20:45 (804 days old) by Sudster ()        

Thanks John,

 

                  That means whoever drilled the 1/8 hole was a homeowner without proper knowledge or an old Maytag pro who thought otherwise on pump replacement with the bleach dispenser--I digress. Does anyone know when the pure lead tub support arm washers were discontinued and replaced with the fiber ones ?

 

There is a reason for these questions--Since the A806 has no tag except for the tub wiring schematic page, I am trying to guess at the year of this machine. Ben only surmised that it probably was an older machine . I appreciate all the help--Joe


Post# 1104354 , Reply# 37   1/12/2021 at 22:14 (804 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        
KQ

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Curious why the MFG year of the donor A806 matters if youíre combing parts from multiple machines to put together a home brew machine? I pulled the tag that came from the machine and it was made in May of Ď72.

I canít explain the bleach hole size as I donít recall putting a pump on it (It has now been almost 12 years since I worked on it) but if I did I could have grabbed a spare pump from the parts stash and a drill bit that would have matched the hole in the old pump.

Any reason why you wouldnít drill the hole size to the factory spec if youíre planning on reusing the pump?

Ben


Post# 1104383 , Reply# 38   1/13/2021 at 07:28 (804 days old) by Sudster ()        
CURIOUS MFG YEAR

Ben,

 

      For that exact reason,To find an ID tag as close as possible to the year. I had no idea you saved it. Would you consider selling it? BTW The cabinet  is the only part that is not original to an 806 . It will have everything a 72- 806 had. 


Post# 1104459 , Reply# 39   1/13/2021 at 20:15 (803 days old) by Sudster ()        
SAVE THAT THOUGHT !!!

Why not wait  to answer when I show the finished product in a few days. It may not have theatrical  orchestra's or be perfect, But I suspect it should be worthy of a re badge . If you or others think the original shell is required for a full restoration- I will understand, but then, why save the badge if you can never get full perfection back? Coming soon


Post# 1104464 , Reply# 40   1/13/2021 at 21:02 (803 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        
why save the badge

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It's been a tradition of mine to save the model tag from a scrapped out appliance as the last thing to snag. It's something I look forward adding to the collection of tags each time I bring home something to part out.

You've accomplished a lot with your washer - we are all looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Ben


Post# 1104494 , Reply# 41   1/14/2021 at 09:13 (803 days old) by Lorainfurniture (Cleveland )        

Iím digging the paint job

Post# 1104537 , Reply# 42   1/14/2021 at 17:31 (802 days old) by Sudster ()        

Thanks Eugene


Post# 1104763 , Reply# 43   1/16/2021 at 19:23 (800 days old) by Sudster ()        
99.9%

I just turned 60 and it seems as though it takes me all day to accomplish 2 things .

 

I rebuilt the injector assy. with all new parts & hoses. That black is not silicone it's the KBS rust paint .


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Post# 1104765 , Reply# 44   1/16/2021 at 19:30 (800 days old) by Sudster ()        

Now this is homemade but it worked out great. I used some 1-1/4 aluminum angle and lamp parts from Lowe's. I soldered and used heat shrink for a harness and used a 3m epoxy that I had along with a 25w bulb. I changed out the lid switch for the correct part . The tub pic was taken in the dark.


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Post# 1104766 , Reply# 45   1/16/2021 at 19:35 (800 days old) by Sudster ()        

Only a couple things left  but I need a quality drain hose. What are my options? I don't care for the cheap ribbed kind. Opinions please!


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Post# 1104813 , Reply# 46   1/17/2021 at 04:19 (800 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Looking Good, posts 43-45

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The tub light idea works well, It might be interesting to find an LED bulb that would give a whiter light which would be impressive with the white tub and turquoise agitator.

 

For drain hoses I always liked WPs black rubber hoses, The best ones were the real rubber Norge or SQ Commercial TL washer drain hoses, they were really good quality heaver rubber and looked most like MTs original hoses but were much better rubber than MT used.

 

 [ Maytag did not use very high quality rubber and plastic [ and lubricants ] in the 60s-the 80s ]

 

John L.


Post# 1104819 , Reply# 47   1/17/2021 at 06:58 (800 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

Great job! Congratulations!


Post# 1104823 , Reply# 48   1/17/2021 at 08:01 (800 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture

I hope you'll upload a video to YouTube so we can see that beauty in action!


Post# 1104844 , Reply# 49   1/17/2021 at 11:47 (800 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Stunning work.

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Congratulations!


Post# 1104845 , Reply# 50   1/17/2021 at 12:02 (800 days old) by Sudster ()        

Thank You ALL !! I will post  a YouTube video in the next few days and provide a link here. Joe


Post# 1105452 , Reply# 51   1/21/2021 at 20:49 (795 days old) by Sudster ()        
Last pics of 806

 I have ran 4 loads and not one leak or squeak, I am working on someone to help with the video . Here are the last pictures of the 806 

 

1 believe placing the harness in wire loom should be the norm on these old machines, And John--I changed to an LED tub bulb and it made a big difference in Lumens and heat-Thank you !


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This post was last edited 01/21/2021 at 21:30
Post# 1105453 , Reply# 52   1/21/2021 at 20:54 (795 days old) by Sudster ()        
last pics

Although the bleach injection is rigged,It works well without back up or leakage. That's sloppy of me to leave silicone grease on the tub . I used it on the new top tub seal. Yes there is plenty of tubing with enough fall for spin and out of balance spin, You'll notice the bleach tank elbow is practically facing you.


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Post# 1105454 , Reply# 53   1/21/2021 at 20:58 (795 days old) by Sudster ()        
Last pics of 806

It turned out pretty well,Not perfect,But I am happy--The Turquoise A702 is next and I will name it Benny in honor of you know who. It will be very entertaining. --Thanks to Robert for the knowledge and the access to it !!


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This post was last edited 01/21/2021 at 22:16
Post# 1105459 , Reply# 54   1/21/2021 at 22:41 (795 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

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Good job! That Maytag will be around for another 50 years.

Post# 1105569 , Reply# 55   1/22/2021 at 21:29 (794 days old) by casciomichael (Rutherford)        

That machine looks great. In regards to the tub light, did you punch a hole in the tub at the 3 oclock position for the light to pass through? Also what is the part number for the double pole switch?

Thanks!
Michael


Post# 1105571 , Reply# 56   1/22/2021 at 21:39 (794 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Conn)        

robbinsandmyers's profile picture
I would love to see a video so I could hear what a fresh new Newton trans sounds like. Or doesnt sound like LOL

Post# 1105576 , Reply# 57   1/22/2021 at 22:11 (794 days old) by Sudster ()        

Michael ,

 

            No hole at all. After the front top bolts are removed the entire top assembly is raised  and you will see the clear lens on the top drum . The light is attached to the top underside lid shining DOWN . The light does not rotate nor does the top or cover. The inner tub spins.

 

John--I will get the video up soon and the transmission sounds a little quieter than my old A310 but not much. I love that unique sound they all make. If you watch a few on YouTube they are all perfection, IMPO- I wish we made stuff that lasted 30 to 50 years these days.


Post# 1105624 , Reply# 58   1/23/2021 at 08:58 (794 days old) by sprog (Boston)        
Wiring the light

sprog's profile picture
Joseph,
Thanks for sharing your workflow! Excellent work! Can you share any insights regarding the tub light wiring mod.? I'll be rebuilding the transmission of my a806 (see Post# 1073856) and figure while it's all apart, why not add a light? In my scenario, I was contemplating LEDs and a relay (which may be overkill). Your solution looks more elegant.
Cheers,
Chris


Post# 1105677 , Reply# 59   1/23/2021 at 18:26 (793 days old) by Sudster ()        

Thanks Chris,

 

           All you need is lid switch 206415 or 2-6415 , It has 3 terminals. Wire yours the same way it is now only the new top switch terminal will be black + to the light. The white from light will go to L2 on the back of your timer. There should be a spare terminal unused.  Joe

 


Post# 1105687 , Reply# 60   1/23/2021 at 21:51 (793 days old) by latchlock8111 (Sulphur Springs Tx)        
Sweet Glow

Say with that tub light you hit it outta' the park.

Post# 1105729 , Reply# 61   1/24/2021 at 14:10 (793 days old) by casciomichael (Rutherford)        
Lens in tub

Do you think the cutout with lens in tub is present on later a806ís? I figured maytag would have eliminated that when they got rid of the light. Is your tub from 1975 or earlier?

Thanks for the part number for the lid switch


Post# 1105736 , Reply# 62   1/24/2021 at 16:03 (792 days old) by Sudster ()        

Thank you all

 

 Good point on the missing lens in 75. Mine is a 72 . What I'll do next on a A310 top is:

 

1---The indentation is there but no lens. I'll drill a hole in each corner of the indentation gradually stepping up to about 3/8.

2---I will then cut the straight parts out with my all time favorite tool, My Dremel with the wand and EZ cutting discs

3--I will paint 2 coats of touch up epoxy on the raw edges & let dry

4--I'll use the Dremel to cut out some acrylic or clear plastic  and simply silicone it in place

 

 There are no water pressure issues to deal with--Ought to work

 

 I just checked the A310 TOP .I don't think I will remove the entire indentation. I think I will leave a 1/16 edge all around for the lens to lay in.


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size


This post was last edited 01/24/2021 at 16:21
Post# 1105843 , Reply# 63   1/25/2021 at 19:02 (791 days old) by sprog (Boston)        
Thanks Joe!

sprog's profile picture
I appreciate the information.
When I perform the mod. I'll post some images.
Cheers,
Chris


Post# 1105859 , Reply# 64   1/25/2021 at 23:57 (791 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

>> 1---The indentation is there but no lens. I'll drill a hole in each corner of the indentation gradually stepping up to about 3/8.

You might be able to use a chassis punch too. You would then only have to drill a pilot hole, and the two dies on either side would punch out a nice clean round hole when you tightened it up.


Post# 1105916 , Reply# 65   1/26/2021 at 17:15 (790 days old) by casciomichael (Rutherford)        
Chassis punch

Thats what I was planning to do, I have round and square punches. If i find one thst fits well, Iíll make a hole. A piece of plexiglass siliconed to the hole and it will be set.

Post# 1105918 , Reply# 66   1/26/2021 at 17:56 (790 days old) by Sudster ()        

Check out thread #81875 in imperial it may help you figure a plan--Joe



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