Thread Number: 85668  /  Tag: Vintage Dishwashers
Dishwasher cabinet
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Post# 1102261   12/28/2020 at 01:22 (820 days old) by Cam2s (Nebraska)        

So Iíve been trying to come up with a way to have a second dishwasher in my kitchen without major renovations. I donít necessarily need it to roll, but the unit will sit probably 3-4 feet away from the sink. I seen this cabinet on IKEA for a reasonable price, it doesnít look Like thereís a countertop but Iím sure something could be rigged up. The question is will it be heavy enough to hold the dishwasher upright with the door open without anchoring the cabinet to the wall?

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Post# 1102262 , Reply# 1   12/28/2020 at 01:28 (820 days old) by Cam2s (Nebraska)        

Electricity shouldnít be a problem as there is a plug near the proposed location, wiring a heavy duty cord to the junction box will suffice there. As far as the intake water and drain is concerned, in donít think a standard unicoupler will reach. I think I could take an intake hose from a Washer and use a female to female connector to extended the intake side and just clamp together an extra length of hose for the drain. Hopefully this wonít create an issue with the dishwasher being Able to function correctly.

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Post# 1102292 , Reply# 2   12/28/2020 at 11:19 (820 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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have noticed on a few portables, there is a concrete counterweight mounted in the back to offset when the door is open....

Kenmore UltraWash's lower panel extended when the door was open as to prevent the machine from tipping over....

just a thought....


Post# 1102361 , Reply# 3   12/29/2020 at 02:58 (819 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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What he ^ said...my old Maytag had a concrete weight in it.  I'm currently planning on returning that old Maytag back to a portable but I no longer have the cabinet it came in so that IKEA one might work for me too.  I think IKEA used to sell a specific DW cabinet a few years ago IIRC but no more.  Martin, do you know how much those counterweights weigh?


Post# 1102362 , Reply# 4   12/29/2020 at 03:17 (819 days old) by chachp (North Little Rock, AR)        
Extend the front of your cart...

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I have a number of BI dishwashers that I have made carts for. †I just extend the front of the cart a few inches and bolt the machine to the cart. †I can have both racks fully loaded and pulled out with no tipping. †This is the first one I built but I've learned I really only need to extend a couple of inches so subsequent ones didn't stick out this far. Where I would like suggestions is what to do about the sides. I have collected a few of the kitchen aid butcher block tops over the years and so far they have all fit model to model. I don't show it in this picture. I'm just not sure what to do about the sides. I'm not sure about that cabinet from Ikea unless the open end goes on the bottom. I'll be eager to see how that works out.


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This post was last edited 12/29/2020 at 06:27
Post# 1102399 , Reply# 5   12/29/2020 at 12:36 (819 days old) by ozzie908 (Lincoln UK)        
As its on a cart

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Could you make it slightly wider than the machine and that would enable you to panel the sides?

Can you get some white shelving wide enough to cover the sides and fix to the cart and the butchers block top ??

Just throwing it out there :)

Austin


Post# 1102485 , Reply# 6   12/30/2020 at 08:27 (818 days old) by chachp (North Little Rock, AR)        
Thanks Austin

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I may try something like that.  All my converted machines are stored right now but I thought about something like some bead board.  You're idea may be more sturdy but I may need to increase the size of the cart just a little.  If I take the time to do that I will also reduce the amount in the front of the cart.  I don't think it needs to stick out quite that far to avoid the tipping.  The one I have in the house right now it a full fledged portable.



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