Thread Number: 86399  /  Tag: Other Home Products or Autos
Heat Pumps - Why they are already a wise investment
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Post# 1109811   2/28/2021 at 13:06 (1,152 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

I subbed to him years ago and he once again made a great video.








If you don't want to watch the entire 35min thing, I'd recommend the last 5 minutes.

He does a very informative calculation:



Considering ALL loses (generation, transportation), natural gas as electricity source brings about 40% of its energy to your home.

Burning it at home gives you upwards of 90%, but never actually 100%.

If you however compare the roundtrip efficiency during heating, a heat pump only needs a COP of 2.5 to get 100% heat captured.



Simply because a heat pump moves energy so efficiently that even if it isn't a particularly efficient unit, it (usually) more then offsets any electricity generation and transmission losses.



And in cases where it doesn't you can switch back to your main heat source.

That switchover happens automatically and is optimised towards efficiency.
So a no fuzz solution that is always as efficient as possible.








A fun side note:

The EU has heat pump tumble dryers as the de facto standard by now for home use at least.

These are not the best thing in terms of efficiency, but even their systems usually reach a COP of at least 3.5.




Our conventional dryers use about 2kW give or take as heating power.

Our HP dryers have compressors around 500-600W.



So, a 2kW inverter heat pump used in a US clothes dryer could probably dry in the same time as normal electric dryer, yet still use half the energy.





Post# 1109858 , Reply# 1   2/28/2021 at 21:39 (1,152 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine)        

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Heat Pumps are and not your best depending where you are. In the colder weather we get here you use alot more electric resistance heating but you have a whole house A/C in the real warm weather. Friends of mine put an expensive geo-thermal system in when they built their house and they are very comfortable and much happier with the lower energy bills.

Post# 1109862 , Reply# 2   2/28/2021 at 22:41 (1,152 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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RJ had a geothermal system installed in March 2009.  I don't think he runs it enough to ever get a payback vs. a non-geothermal system.  He stands rooted in front of his propane fireplace during cold weather.  Has been at least two repairs.  Circulation pump was one IIRC.


Post# 1109864 , Reply# 3   2/28/2021 at 22:59 (1,152 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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I hate heat pumps. My last apt had one. Growing up with gas heat I froze all the time. MIL has one now...she hates it too. You will never convince me that it is cheaper to just run an air conditioner in reverse...especially in an area that has gas service.

Post# 1109867 , Reply# 4   2/28/2021 at 23:37 (1,152 days old) by warmsecondrinse (Fort Lee, NJ)        

#3

My understanding is that they are more efficient than gas down to a particular temp that's determined by the unit and the heating demands. As the temp drops electric resistance heat is phased in bit by bit as needed. However, there does come a temp at which is is more efficient to use the electric or other backup.

Last I looked into it, which was prob 20 years ago, heat pumps were more efficient down to 35-40F. I think a few members have much newer units that work down to 20F or so before it's cheaper/more efficient to run other kinds of heat.


Post# 1109870 , Reply# 5   2/28/2021 at 23:59 (1,152 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
As the temp drops electric resistance heat is phased in bit by bit as needed.
Depends on the design and capability of the system.  Newer and/or higher-end systems have two or more sets of individually-staged heat strips.  Lower-end units such as mine may have more than one set of elements but run them all or none.  I can turn off one of the breakers and have only one set able to run but the system can't do that automatically.


Post# 1109872 , Reply# 6   3/1/2021 at 00:44 (1,152 days old) by CircleW (NE Cincinnati OH area)        

Some of the newer systems use inverter technology, like is used in mini-split units. They can supply an air handler or individual fan-coil units. There are also air to water heat pumps that can supply hot water to radiant floors, convectors, radiators, fan coils, or air handlers. Nordic, a company in Canada, makes units especially suited to extreme cold weather.

Post# 1109874 , Reply# 7   3/1/2021 at 01:46 (1,152 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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I guess it depends on the area, and system used....

but have run into more people this season who have these units...and not one is happy with them...

barely enough heat, and cost of repair/maintenance is more than the energy savings...

cannot say its a system I would want....


Post# 1109877 , Reply# 8   3/1/2021 at 06:18 (1,152 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

When I lived in Manassas,VA for several years lived in a townhome that had a Trane HVAC system.Heat pump-electric heater in winter-AC summer.Worked REALLY well.During two big snows-2Ft first one,1Ft second.Simply shoveled the snow away from the condensor unit-worked great held well only needed backup heat just a few times.The efficiency of these heat pumps depend on both refrigerant and compressor efficiency.Efficient refrigerants can funcion in below freezing temps well.If not then the system has to use the backup heat.

Post# 1109910 , Reply# 9   3/1/2021 at 12:24 (1,151 days old) by ozzie908 (Lincoln UK)        
Have a reasonably low priced

ozzie908's profile picture
HVAC its only works in one room but will drop the temp in the whole house when its hot and I have used it a couple of times to warm me instead of the electric fire it will heat the room very quickly with the doors closed but we have a very good hot water/radiator system that heats the whole house, If I had realised how good these new systems are I would not have updated the central heating but would have had 3 heat pumps put in as that would have been less than the new boiler.... Live and learn.

Austin


Post# 1109920 , Reply# 10   3/1/2021 at 13:18 (1,151 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
There is no natural gas on my street. Houses are all electric and range in age being built from 1972 to 1984. Mine was one of the last two built. The HVAC was a RUUD heat pump, albeit builder's grade. It was one of the reasons why I bought my home. I was familiar with heat pumps. Friends that used to live behind us in our old house were responsible for us moving to the new house September 1961. Their house was a gold medallian all-electric house and had a heat pump. The most recent artic blast was the 2nd coldest I've experienced since living in this house since January 1986. The lowest it got was 2 degrees F. The coldest was a couple of days before Christmas 1989 and it got down to -4 degrees F. The RUUD heat pump couldn't keep up and could only heat the house to 64 degrees with the emergency heat setting. My current Trane XL20i kept the house at 69 degrees despite all the snow & I that was around it. I couldn't get near it because of all the snow & ice to clear that from around the unit. I got my bill last Friday, 1806 kwh for the billing period. In the past two years, my highest consumption was 1550 kwh in June 2019 or July 2020. So I was pleased.

Post# 1109925 , Reply# 11   3/1/2021 at 14:35 (1,151 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O )        

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When I replaced out mini split last September I went with a heat pump model as it was only a negligible cost increase. I figured if for some reason our boiler went down I'd have some sort of heat until it was fixed. I was a bit too nervous to even turn it on these past few weeks of minus weather thinking that with my bad luck of late with appliances it would probably break in that cold and I'd have another big kerfuffle to deal with. I did turn it on last for a few minutes because it was just above freezing, and it did pump out a lot of heat.

Post# 1110452 , Reply# 12   3/6/2021 at 22:49 (1,146 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
If you live in

Florida or somewhere warm, they are ok i guess, I wouldnt have one personally, old cold air blowing, I grew up with oil heat and i like hot air


Post# 1110473 , Reply# 13   3/7/2021 at 04:55 (1,146 days old) by sfh074 ( )        
Just had ....

a SEER 18 heat pump installed at my mom's condo, a Carrier unit. The outside condenser unit comes up to my chest and I'm 5'11". The thing looks huuuuuge.

But anyways, yeah ...... still the usual blast of cold air every time it starts blowing and when the outside temp is below about 34, the damn thing runs what seems forever before it cuts off. As for the inside temp, it does do a fairly good job at maintaining the 74 degrees mom keeps it set at in the winter. Her power bill is a bit lower compared to the older unit by about $20 a month. At that rate it'll take 200 winter power bills to recoup the cost. LOL Curious to see what the average AC bill will be.


Post# 1110476 , Reply# 14   3/7/2021 at 05:50 (1,146 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

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Heat pumps NOT a good product.

Mini-Split AC ONLY units are a very good product however.

Baseboard heaters and EXCELLENT insulation is the best way to heat.
We've lived and experimented long enough now to know that insulation is key to keeping our environments comfy whether heating or cooling.

Baseboards make no noise, have no moving parts, are cheap to install, have 100% efficiency, can be controlled per each room, They don't explode or kill occupants silently, there are no dirty ducts to worry about, oh and again Q-U-I-E-T.

And quiet is the reason to choose a mini-split. Preferably a 120 volt model that way if you have a solar system you can use a standard 120 volt inverter to power it.


I used mini split heat pump last year. I knew as a heat source it wouldn't work because heat needs to be coming from floor level. A mini split is hung up high on a wall which means you'd have to blow the heat down. So there's the draft.
Then there is the unnecessary noise. I HATE mechanical noise. Our world is polluted enough already with idiots making noise.

I also owned a home in the Chicago area that had been made "all electric" in the 70s with a heat pump.
Terrible.
That fan had run so long on the air handler it was vibrating terribly.
When it came on there was the cold draft.
Then MORE noise from TWO units running.

That thing got ripped out and put in a standard gas furnace and AC unit. This was 2003.

I will never install anything with duct work again either. All that dust you don't have access to plus it's difficult to zone rooms. Then there is the cutting of the structure to install them.
The noise that vibrates from room to room. No.

----

Mini splits can be bought and self installed with the pre-charged lines.
There are vids on YouTube showing how to do it.

This one is 12,000 BTU. Depending on your insulation that can do quite a bit of space.


  View Full Size
Post# 1110482 , Reply# 15   3/7/2021 at 06:23 (1,146 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

Dunno what you are talking about noise wise.

If your house is that well insulated the outside noise shouldn't come in.
Any thermal insulation is usually good noise insulation.

And inside units I've yet to find anything over 30db.
That's quieter than most fridges.



Efficiency of 100% is nice.
But having effectively 300% or more is better I'd say.



Even a full house system can technically be run from solar.
Just depends on the setup.

Especially if you are arguing for electric baseboard heating.
If you can heat a whole house with those on solar, so can a heat pump.



And the draft thing is somewhat confusing to me.
If you already have AC apparently that isn't much an issue unless you choose to.

That generally also confused me:
If you have forced air heating these systems shouldn't be much different?

Yes, if your system doesn't have the delay before running the fan (waiting for the coils to heat up) the cold air blast might be an issue.
But otherwise heat should be similar, maybe not as intense.




I do like my heated floors and radiators, sure.

But most seem to forget that there are a lot of different heat pump setups.

A heat pump just names the compressor based nature of the system.
Where it pulls the heat from and where it dumps it to is a whole different story.



The most common systems over here are air-water-heatpumps with underfloor heating.

The heat pumps are usually sized 1/3 to 1/4 of what would have been installed for oil or gas.
Our house has a 20kW oil system currently that is almost a little oversized. We use something like 2000l of oil a year I think.
So we'd be using a 5-8kW heat pump.

Depending on location and model you choose you either have a split system or like one of my cousins everything is situated inside in your utility room and only an air duct connects outside.



The heat exchanger pulls the heat from the air and puts it into either your hot water storage or your heating loop.

Main downside is that hot water temperatures are kept relatively low (about 50C).
Depending on system that necessitates a periodic automatic heating above 70C for water safety that uses a resistive heat source.

But for heating it really doesn't change much.
Our heating loop runs at about 48C at 0C outside.





Biggest advantage in my view is that for many, it just straight is a drop in replacement.

Technology has advanced so far that 90% of homes over here can be heated that way without major modification.

No more expensive deep well drilling for geothermal heat pumps like we would have needed 10 years ago.



And in the US any house having central AC could cover at least a certain amount of their heating pretty environmentally friendly.





Sure there will be good and bad implementations.

Biggest issue appears to be that cold air blast issue several mentioned.
But again - the unit in the video already solved that with a pretty simple timed or temperature guided delay on when to activate the fan.


Post# 1110486 , Reply# 16   3/7/2021 at 07:14 (1,146 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
Noise and price

So I actually just checked out of curiosity.


In the EU, noise levels are limited by law (of course they are).
Outside units are not allowed to be louder than 35db at 3m distance during night time.
35db is a decently quiet fridge.




A air-water-heatpump suitable to heat our entire house plus warm water would run around 15-20k max plus installation.

Our oil system was 15k including a new warm water tank and installation IIRC about 8 years ago or so.

However the heat pump would currently get a 50% rebate given it replaces an oil system.
So while running it might not necessarily be cheaper, it would just be cheaper to get it.


Post# 1110489 , Reply# 17   3/7/2021 at 07:57 (1,146 days old) by volsboy1 (East Tenn Smoky mountains )        

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Ours Kicked ass up at the farm when it got down to the single digits .
I grossly oversized it the Mitsubishi Hyper heat,but when you have a inverter compressor that is less of a problem..
I turned off the 2 American standard split heat pumps and just left the fans on and set the temp at 73 on the Mitsubishi just to see if it would have any issues.
Its a 48k unit with 4 indoor units . I have two down stairs and one in the middle and one on the very top floor.
The unit did not even struggle the air coming out is HOT HOT .
My Dad is going to rip out the Trane And American Stand heat pump units and go
with Mr Cool brand. Those units are 14 years old, We have had a great service from MR cool and sense the Trane Handlers are new as is the coil that Mini Split will work. They heat down to -22F . Trane used to be the best not anymore. I have seen 4 new Trane Heat Pumps in a new tract of Homes and the Tranes are all using L.G. compressors. They could of went with Copeland compressors. I would have went with Panasonic or Toshiba Scrolls before I touched L.G.


Post# 1110554 , Reply# 18   3/8/2021 at 01:07 (1,145 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        
net metering

We are off-grid so it doesn't apply to us, but in my State (Victoria) we used to have net metering for homes with the old "moving disc" meters, but now all grid-connected homes in the state have smart meters that calculate energy in/ energy out separately.

For an initial phase-in period the power companies had to pay a legislated 60c per KWH. Retail cost of power is about 30c. Obviously a strong incentive to put solar on your home. The mandated rate dropped to 45c then went unregulated and fell to about 6 to 8 cents, now is up to 11 or 12 cents per kwh for your exports to grid. Some lucky folks signed LONG contracts at 45cents and will still be getting that for another couple of years.


Post# 1110578 , Reply# 19   3/8/2021 at 08:49 (1,144 days old) by warmsecondrinse (Fort Lee, NJ)        

#14

Late 60's and 70's development ('Builder's Showcase') type homes were very hit or miss in terms of quality, as far as I'm aware. A lot of things were done on the cheap.

If there're any problems with the design/placement of the ducts and vents when built, those problems become more obvious when when a heat pump is used due to the lower temps of the output (at least back then).

In my parents' 60's development home ducts ran across the ceiling of the basement and there were usually one or two outputs into the basement as well as a return. All had dampers. When the energy crises hit many people insulated the ducts and closed the dampers. While this did technically increase the temp of the air coming out of the ducts, it lowered the temps of the basement thereby lowering the temp of the floor (hardwood) on the first floor --> raising the thermostat a few degrees to compensate --> complaints of being cold with higher bills.

Conversely, those who left the system as is but insulated the walls of their basements were happy. Cozy basement + warm floors --> lowering the thermostat a few degrees --> lower heating bills.

I grew up with warm air heat and everything you've mentioned says to me that the system was installed by people who had no idea what they were doing. Heat should come from ducts on the floor or walls at floor level and a/c from ducts in the ceiling or high on the walls. The fan should have a delay of a minute or two to prevent the blasts you described. Fan velocity should be fairly even from all registers... enough to have circulation but not so fast as to cause drafts. There should be a filter to eliminate dust.

But people have similar complaints about 100+ year old one-pipe steam systems. 99% of the time problems are some sort of maladjustment.


Post# 1110617 , Reply# 20   3/8/2021 at 17:48 (1,144 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

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In my location, I still believe natural gas is still the cheapest and most effective way to heat a home. Sure, in areas without natural gas service, heat pumps/split/whatever make sense.

And they also could make economic sense if one's home is equipped with solar power panels.

The point about insulation is spot on.

When I bought this house in 1997, it had poor insulation. I noticed that first winter that the forced air central heating system would run for hours continuously on cold evenings.

That spring I went out and corrected a number of deficiencies:

1) Insulated between the ceiling rafters in the attic (1 story home) with about R-25 or more. Previously there was zero insulation up there.

2) Sealed off many air leaks between living areas and the attic. I was kind of surprised at how many there were.

3) Renewed the felt strips on the sliding aluminum windows. They used to rattle on windy days, no doubt letting warm air out and cold air in. Now they are quiet. Yes, I know, double pane insulated windows are even better, but I don't think the cost is justified. This is because outside of air leaks, windows comprise a small fraction of the living space envelope.

4) Insulated the heating and return air ductwork under the house.

Once I had done 1-4, the next winter (and to this day), even on cold nights the furnace comes on for maybe five or ten minutes per hour max on cold nights. And the heating bill for gas service was slashed at least in half.

Also in order to prevent moisture build-up in the attic (there was some sign of black mold on some of the roof rafters), I installed soffit vents all around the structure. This probably didn't affect energy consumption but no doubt helped the structure resist moisture issues.

5) The next year I went in and insulated under most of the first floor, over the crawl space.

My preferred insulation material was Miraflex - a type of fiberglass that resembles polyester fiber fill and doesn't shed nearly as much of the itchy glass fibers that regular fiberglass does, nor does it contain the formaldehyde that regular fiberglass bats may have. Unfortunately Owens-Corning has since discontinued the product :-( ... But I got enough of it to address all of the attic and most of the flooring.

(Note: some web sites state that Owens-Corning didn't discontinue Miraflex, but that Home Depot only stopped carrying it. This doesn't seem to be true. I just visited the Owens-Corning website and searched for Miraflex and came up with no results. I have no idea why it is no longer being made.)


Post# 1111045 , Reply# 21   3/12/2021 at 06:56 (1,141 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        
Keeping it vintage.....

Avoiding any of the nonsense which always pops up when you discuss energy saving appliances; I want to present to you a very neat find I made last year. 

Heat pump technology has been around a while.

 




 

 

Sincerely,

David


Post# 1111047 , Reply# 22   3/12/2021 at 07:18 (1,141 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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According to this, R500 was banned in 1996

www.agas.com/us/products-...

But this says 2006

classroom.synonym.com/r500-refri...


Post# 1111048 , Reply# 23   3/12/2021 at 07:29 (1,141 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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Found this interesting

www.tennessean.com/story/...


Post# 1111052 , Reply# 24   3/12/2021 at 07:46 (1,141 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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Consumer Reports chimes in....

www.consumeraffairs.com/h...

For those of us who've never heard of much less seen a hybrid water heater this Old House to the rescue.





In our area electricty cost far more than oil or gas, thus few will use it for water heating or any other major means of generating same if they can help it. That is unless it can be made to work out to be cheaper.


Post# 1111068 , Reply# 25   3/12/2021 at 11:18 (1,140 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
Banned

Refrigeration and refrigerants usually don't have immediate bans since these equipment is a major investment.

Repairs on commercial equipment is very common.



Thus usually they first ban the selling of any new equipment using a refrigerant before banning the production/import of that refrigerant.

So that 10 year difference might be exactly that.
First they banned the new equipment.
About 10 years later the refrigerant itself.






Over here they banned R134a in car ACs recently, but only for new cars.

That refrigerant is being fased out for any appliances as well in the coming years AFAIK.

Many new fridges and such already use R290a.







And yes heat pumps have been around a long time.

Thing is that up until recently, they made not that much sense.

They weren't terribly efficient with mid-late 1900s technology, weren't any cheaper or considered "greener".
So they were a rarer investment.


Post# 1111071 , Reply# 26   3/12/2021 at 12:12 (1,140 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

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"Avoiding any of the nonsense which always pops up when you discuss energy saving appliances..."

I guess by "nonsense" it implies those pesky mean laws that ban toxic chemicals that are ruining the ozone layer?

We don't really need an ozone layer, do we? Future generations don't even want Ozone. No.

Baseboard and flat-panel electric heaters don't have toxic volatile gasses that will eventually escape and/or need replacement.

One does not have to have a license to install or plug in a baseboard electric heater
unlike a refrigeration guy that has all those expensive tools, gauges, and bottles of explosive gas to carry around.


Post# 1111204 , Reply# 27   3/13/2021 at 08:16 (1,140 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        

bradfordwhite, your post is a perfect example of what I was referring to. I come here to look at what makes things work, and how to keep them going; as do quite a few others. Your post contributes nothing and serves only to incite negativity. I refer to this sort of chaff as "nonsense."  I hope this answers your question.

 

 


Post# 1111205 , Reply# 28   3/13/2021 at 08:26 (1,139 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Heat pumps have always made sense since their inception

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In 1955 my aunt Margaret’s parents built an all new all electric home in Illinois.

The Home featured a ground source heat pump system.

The house was very well insulated on a small farm it had an electric range and electric KitchenAid dishwasher and a Bendix washer dryer combination and all the other modern conveniences of the day, and the annual electric bill was between 95 and 105 dollars yes that was the cost for an entire year of electricity. Until the 1970s when prices of electricity started to go up.

I remember the first year when he complained that it cost over $200 around the late 70s to operate this household for an entire year LOL

Heat pumps have always made sense because you’re just moving heat around not creating it. Heat pumps will be the predominant heating and cooling system the world over if it isn’t already very soon.

John


Post# 1111216 , Reply# 29   3/13/2021 at 09:54 (1,139 days old) by reactor (Oak Ridge, Tennessee-- )        
Heat pump

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Yes, a Heat Pump, does not involve "creating" heat, as John and others have said but simply re-locating pre-existing heat from one area to another.

Heat is the flow of thermal energy from one body to another. Thermodynamics state that heat must flow from a warmer object to a cooler object. In the Winter, heat wants to flow OUT of your house to the colder outside air. A heat pump supplies just enough energy to move natural, pre-existing heat, contained in the outside air into your home.

When it is, say zero degrees F, it doesn't seem as if there is much heat out there. BUT...

Absolute zero, which is almost -460 F, is the coldest temperature that can exist in our Universe.

So when it is 0 degrees F outside, we still have 460 degrees of heat available in the air. More than enough to boil water! Your heat pump just uses enough energy to move some of this heat from the outdoors into your home.

From reading the postings here, and talking to others, it seems that people either hate or love Heat Pumps. Those who have never had one develop their opinions based on which of the two groups of people they have talked to, not from personal experience.

I have found that those who hate Heat Pumps, and have actually had one, are victims of improper installation, a low quality/less efficient unit, or improper operation due to ignorance. ("Ignorance" not meaning to be an insult, but meaning "not educated" or "not knowledgeable" of proper operation.)

Like the garbage disposal, the heat pump is laden with Old Wive's Tales of misinformation.

Many HVAC dealers do not take the time or money to properly install a central Heat Pump. Heat pumps are a different animal and operate by moving large quantities of air for longer times--since the temperature differential between air going into a heat pump and coming out is less than say from a fossil fuel furnace, such as a gas or oil-fired furnace.

Larger ducts must be used, and larger registers. Conventual heating systems often use the typical 4 by 10 floor registers, heat pumps must have a minimum of 4 by 12 inch registers or larger for most room sizes.

Builders are probably the number one source of Heat Pump irritation. They often use the lowest quality/efficiency unit they can find. They often do not properly size ducts, nor registers and rarely strategically place registers and cold air return intake vents. The result--an unhappy homeowner. don't blame the heat pump, blame the lazy and greedy builder.

I have read comments about a heat pump running "all the time." Actually, that is normal and that is the way they are designed. Near the balance point a heat pump should be running continuously or near continuously....moving large amounts of air with low temperature differentials. The air is not supposed to necessarily be hot such as from a gas furnace. However, in mild weather, yes, heat pump air can be hot enough to nearly burn your hand on a register if you leave it on there.

As outside temperature goes down, so does the the temperature of the air exiting from your Heat Pump air handler. To compensate, the heat pump runs longer. When in perfect balance, heat loss from your home equals heat gain from your Heat Pump, your heat pump will be running continuously. It is supposed to. When continuous running cannot balance the temperature, then the auxiliary heating will come on sporadically to add heat energy to the air. (This auxiliary hear is often electric, but doesn't have to be. It could be gas, etc.)

For simplicity, I am talking about an "air source" heat pump. Not geothermal. Air-source meaning it is pulling heat out of the Winter air.

A house with leaking windows, or under-insulated can change the balance point to occurring at a higher outdoor temperature. A super-insulated house or very well constructed house can lower the balance point tremendously. The more efficient the heat pump, the lower the outdoor air temperature is at which the balance point is reached.

Heat pumps are now most often listed with SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating). Such as 11, 14, etc.

Less often seen is the COP, Coefficient of Performance. This is the ratio of energy put into to the system compared to the heat energy put out by your Heat Pump. For example, a COP of 3.0 for your heat pump, means that at a given outdoor temperature, for every unit of energy you put into your heat pump, you get three units of heat energy out.

I don't recall the COP, exactly, of straight electric resistance heat but it is quite high around 99.7 or something in that vicinity. So, for every unit of energy you put in, you get almost one unit of heat energy out. Little is lost due to efficiency.

With a heat pump, manufacture's rate at two typical outdoor temperatures, one of them is 17 degrees F. So a COP for a residential heat pump might be, for example, 2.3 at 17 degrees F. Meaning at this outdoor temperature, for every unit of energy you put in you will get 2.3 units of heat energy out. Many residential heat pumps retain COP's greater than one into the single digits or even below zero.

That is why Heat Pumps are ecologically such sound ways to heat your home.

Often, I find people do not understand that most heat pump thermostats are programed to kick in the auxiliary heat if you turn them up 2 degrees or more at a given time. If you have an "Aux Heat" indicator light you will see it come on. The thermostat thinks you are cold and want heat fast, so the aux heat will speed up your getting the house warm.

Of course, you just dumped money down the drain when you utilize you auxiliary heat because you may be creating heat with a COP of nearly one, when you could have been using the heat pump to move heat with a COP of, let's say 3 or 3.5 or more.

Unless you are shivering in your boots, it is best to never turn a heat pump up more than one degree at a time. If you are still wanting a higher room temperature, wait until the room comes up to temp, then turn up the thermostat another degree.

If you turn your thermostat down at night, most modern programmable heat pump thermostats will compute at what time in the morning to start heating the house, using the auxiliary heat as little as possible, to get it up to temperature at your waking time.

Oddly, many of the newer thermostats do not have the Axillary Heat indicator light. Some have none, and some show a small icon or word that one may easily overlooked.

Thinking back, and adding up, I have had five homes/apartments with Heat Pumps. My current home is my fifth house equipped with an air source heat pump. I love them. If you understand them, know what to expect, and how to use them, they can save you a lot of money.

You are not burning any fossil fuel (it's much more efficient, and cleaner for your electrical utility to burn fossils fuels, centrally, that it is for each separate house to do so). There is no danger of gas leakage, carbon monoxide, or explosions.

A Heat Pump, as mentioned, is a different kind of animal. You can't expect a cougar to act like a wolf. They are different creatures but each has its own beauties.

A Heat Pump is not a gas fired furnace, nor is it a coal unit, nor an oil fired unit. So quit thinking it should act like one.

A heat pump will run near continuously or continuously in very cold weather, it is not going to give toasty feeling air out of the register at very cold temps, and you have to have the knowledge to know how to operate the thermostat so as to not kick in the auxiliary heat.

The continuous air is a good thing, it means continuously filtered and circulated air. The lower register air temps (in very cold weather) means the moving air is not as drying to the skin and you get greater temperature uniformity around the house as you do not have zones of blasting hot heat near the registers.


Heat pumps aren't for everyone, but if you want greater efficiency using natures heat, you like greater temperature uniformity in your house and cleaner air then you probably will become best friends with your Heat Pump should you decide to get one. :)





This post was last edited 03/13/2021 at 11:46
Post# 1111229 , Reply# 30   3/13/2021 at 11:27 (1,139 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
Barry, thank you for taking the time to provide such an excellent, detailed explanation.

As I've stated a few times previously, I knew my builders grade HP was not good compared to one my parents had in their vacation home. And thanks to John L (Combo52) for providing me with information at the 2002 wash-in that when times comes for me to replace my heat pump, to get one with a variable speed air handler and multi-speed compressor. Which I did and experience was like night & day difference.


Post# 1111253 , Reply# 31   3/13/2021 at 15:50 (1,139 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        
turbokinetic

bradfordwhite's profile picture
No one's preventing you from learning. Everyone, including myself, have presented quality ideas.

Life is full of ideas and concepts. Some work better than others. Some are better fitted to certain situations.

It sounds more like you're only looking for a monotone choir to preach the joys of something.
Starting a thread requesting that "only those who want to speak positively about xxxxxx...." would be suggested. Or would that be too blatantly exclusionary?
It's not presenting reality but people do it.


Post# 1111257 , Reply# 32   3/13/2021 at 16:19 (1,139 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        
#24

bradfordwhite's profile picture
heat pump water heaters, especially if installed inside a house are a terrible idea.

They make loud noise vs. total or near quiet of electric and the soft burning sound of a standing pilot water heater when it's heating.

What's worse is (unless they've changed how these are made), they aren't vented to the outdoors which means the cold air they are creating when running is being dumped inside your home. That might be fine for summer but if it's winter you don't want something adding yet MORE cool air when you are trying to heat the air.

These are ridiculously expensive and because they have all these moving parts it's going to require expensive repairs and certainly won't last long.

My Aunt and Uncle built a new house in 72 with a standard 40 gallon electric water heater. They sold the house in 99. She admitted they were lucky because it lasted all that time without them doing anything to it.
The only maintenance an electric water heater needs is to occasionally drain water off the bottom. She stated they never did that. lol. And it lasted all those years.

----

Remember- Not encumbering one's self with complicated possessions and obligations is one of the most complicated but rewarding things a smart person can do.

You can always tell the true intelligence of a person by the lack of liabilities they have around their neck.


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Post# 1111283 , Reply# 33   3/13/2021 at 19:28 (1,139 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        

@ reply28... John; my house in Alabama has an 80's vintage heat pump system. It's not fancy. A Goodman with Copland recip compressor.  It's air source and works fine in our climate here.  When I lived with my parents, I had thought about building a lake-source system since they live on a lake which would be much warmer than the air during winter. 

 

It would have been interesting to see how the energy use of the pump to bring lake water to the heat exchanger would be offset by the warmer heat source.  It would seem to me, that the biggest savings would be during the summer air conditioning season, with cooler condenser temps due to the lake water. 


I had considered building something similar to a "keel cooler" and routing the refrigerant from the unit to the lake, to eliminate the need for a pump. That would have been costly for many reasons due to the distance from the house to the lake.


Post# 1111307 , Reply# 34   3/14/2021 at 06:15 (1,139 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        
What's worse is they aren't vented to the outdoors

Are you kidding?

I have NEVER seen a heat pump water heater indoors.

They are extremely common in Australia, since at least the 1980s.

They are always installed outdoors if they are an all-in-one unit.

There are a couple of split system ones, where the tank can be mounted indoors but the compressor/condenser/fan unit is outdoors. Siddons used to be made with flat-plate condensers that mounted flat on the roof, so they got direct solar gain as a bonus, but these aren't made any more.



CLICK HERE TO GO TO gizmo's LINK

Post# 1111311 , Reply# 35   3/14/2021 at 07:18 (1,139 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
I've been following this thread with interest, but I must say I was pretty flabbergasted that there would be such a thing like a heat pump water heater with an indoor heat pump. Never heard of that!

Overhere in the NL we have combined systems, water heater and heating system in one. Now try that with an indoor heat pump! lol



Post# 1111312 , Reply# 36   3/14/2021 at 07:21 (1,139 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

I'm not sure I believe there is such a thing as an indoor heat pump.

 


Post# 1111315 , Reply# 37   3/14/2021 at 07:47 (1,139 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Heat Pump Water Heaters

combo52's profile picture

Are Wonderful Energy Savers and for homes in the US without Natural Gas are one of the biggest money and energy savers available at a reasonable cost to the home owner.

 

US HPWHs are all installed indoors, the compressor in integrated on top of a 50 gallon water heater.

 

Having lived with one and the many friends I have with them every body I have talked to about them loved them.

 

The many advantages of having the entire unit indoors is the unit assists in cooling and dehumidifying in warmer months which is over 1/2 the year in most of the US.

 

Noise levels are very low, usually less than a dehumidifier. 

 

The power consumption is around 1,200 watts compared to 4,500 for a typical US electric heater. They need to be in an area with ventilation [ not a tiny tight closet ] If the ambient temperature goes much below 50F it may revert to resistance heating.

 

From talking to people with HPWHs you usually save $20 a month for a single person living in a house, most people in the US are entitled to a Federal tax credit of $500, state and unity credits in addition often bring the cost down below $500 installed or about the same as a cheap electric water heater.

 

All major water heater makers are selling lots of these in the US, the department banned sales of residential WHs over 50 gallons except for HPWHS several years ago.

 

John L.


Post# 1111325 , Reply# 38   3/14/2021 at 10:31 (1,138 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
I was really drooling over the potential of replacing my Whirlpool Energy Smart HWH with a Hybrid Water Heater but my water heater is located in raised closet in the garage next to the air handler for my HVAC, so no go. At least Rheem/Ruud offers a water heater with similar concept as my current water heater--"intelligently" maintaining reserve temperature based upon usage patterns and will maintain at a lower temperature but then increase to set point when demand requires it. The Rheem also has an app whereby you can control the temperature from your phone, which would be helpful if I ended up with having a SQ front loader and could increase temperature from what I currently keep at (120-125) and increase the temp to 140 or 145 when I have to do a "sanitize" wash since it doesn't have an onboard heater.

Post# 1111330 , Reply# 39   3/14/2021 at 11:03 (1,138 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

bradfordwhite's profile picture
Want to boost water temps for your washer.

Try a compact 2 1/2, 4, or 6 gallon 120 volt water heater with a 30 minute switch.

Before you're going to do laundry simply turn on the switch and let it heat the water to 150 degrees.

Connect the washing machine hose directly to the water heater and connect the water heater inlet hose to the hot water faucet.

It only uses electric for that short period of time.

Very efficient and no noise pollution.

Affordable and easy to install.


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Post# 1111333 , Reply# 40   3/14/2021 at 11:20 (1,138 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

bradfordwhite's profile picture
It looks like (once again) EU countries and those affiliated, are doing things in a logical way compared to us in the U.S. No surprise.

If one is going to use a heat pump, you'd want the heat exchanger outdoors. I'm happy to hear that they at least exist.

It's totally inferior to want that noisy contraption indoors dumping cold air.

I remember looking at a model home with one of these things in it and it was running and I was like what is that noise in the basement? ehhhh.

This is like those vending machines that weirdly make a LOT of noise when all they are is a refrigerator that never gets opened. It should make less noise than a household refrigerator, not more.

Noise pollution is such a problem in the U.S. We should do everything to avoid adding to the problem.



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Post# 1111343 , Reply# 41   3/14/2021 at 11:59 (1,138 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Considering that I've run air conditioning for the past 3 days, a heat pump water heater in the house providing some cooling and dehumidification would be a positive.  Such a unit unfortunately wouldn't fit in the small broom closet where my tankless is mounted.


Post# 1111345 , Reply# 42   3/14/2021 at 12:04 (1,138 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

bradfordwhite's profile picture
Likewise there are people in cold climates or during periods of cold, icy weather but the electric is working, that have vented their electric dryer indoors. Not a gas dryer because of course the asphyxiation risk and the smell and soot. This way one can capture the heat and humidity. I've done that myself. But it creates a lot of dust.

Post# 1111349 , Reply# 43   3/14/2021 at 12:13 (1,138 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Which is why there are products on the market that fit a range of needs.


Post# 1111354 , Reply# 44   3/14/2021 at 12:43 (1,138 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

bradfordwhite's profile picture
Yep, but not ALL the products which means it's not a free and open market here in the U.S.

WHERE are the heat pump water heaters that one would install outside?
Where is an affordable compact car like the Hyundai i10?
And why don't most "Americans" have access to public transport?

A closed or BIASED market especially in an increasingly world market is not acceptable.






If one diverts the dryer vent to vent inside, that's very simple.

If one were foolish or innocent enough to have a loud heat pump water heater INSIDE their home and it's cool outside so you have the heat on, how are you going to divert that cool air outdoors?


Post# 1111360 , Reply# 45   3/14/2021 at 13:55 (1,138 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Installation in a 31" x 28" broom closet in a small indoor laundry room obviously isn't ideal.  A larger laundry room may be workable.  A garage or exterior storage area would be perfect.

Sister's water heater is in the attic.  Not a good location for a 40- or 50-gal tank of water ... but being that's where is it, workable for a hybrid.

A.O. Smith units cite an optional duct kit for installation in a "confined" space.

Some Rheem units I checked cite refrigeration of 4,200 BTU (a small window unit) and noise level of 49 dBA.


Post# 1111366 , Reply# 46   3/14/2021 at 14:05 (1,138 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

bradfordwhite's profile picture
Being from a northern state, the idea of a water heater in an attic seems ridiculous.
However, for a southern state it's actually a really good idea because

1. heat rises. Attics get hot helping to heat water and keep it hot, thus saving money and energy. Also, the heat from the water heater doesn't enter one's living environment. Another positive.

2. Southern homes don't usually have basements so it saves space by putting it in unused attic.

3. If it's gas it's got a short chimney and the gas is outside your living space.

The only thing is having a attic flor that can handle the weight and leaks.
Having a pan under would def. be a requirement.


Post# 1111420 , Reply# 47   3/14/2021 at 22:18 (1,138 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

our 250 litre solar HWS is in the attic. It has a drain pan under. (steel tray leading to a drain pipe that drops out under the eave.)

We had to double up the ceiling joists to support the weight.

mounting it there allowed us to mount the solar hot water panels low down on the roof, and the heated water thermosyphons back up to the tank.(no pump.)

Usually you have to install them over a supporting wall, but we were able to demonstrate that our double framing was adequate to support the weight, and couldn't mount over a wall because the wall continues up to support the roof ridge beam.

It works a treat.



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