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Thread Number: 86574
/ Tag: Other Home Products or Autos
Questions about bath towels.... |
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Post# 1111744 3/17/2021 at 00:19 (1,136 days old) by Revvinkevin  (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land) |
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Post# 1111749 , Reply# 1 3/17/2021 at 00:40 (1,136 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.) |
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| Post# 1111750 , Reply# 2 3/17/2021 at 00:43 (1,136 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
A few people may know on how to keep towels like new but I do know is that fabric softener can somewhat effect towels to absorb water but that’s if you were to use a entire cup of fabric softener. Always use a small amount of fabric softener on towels every now and again to give them a fresh scent but since I’ve been using my 1963 Whirlpool Imperial dryer with it’s UV/ozone light I haven’t been using fabric softener on towels for the past few months since towels have a unique fresh scent from the UV/ozone light in my 1963 Whirlpool Imperial dryer.
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Post# 1111751 , Reply# 3 3/17/2021 at 00:48 (1,136 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.) |
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Sean | ||
| Post# 1111756 , Reply# 4 3/17/2021 at 01:07 (1,136 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
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Reply #3
Yes, and prevents covid-19 too. I’ve been using my 1963 Whirlpool Imperial dryer ever since I got it last July and the whole reason I’ve been using that dryer is my mother works at a Amazon warehouse and there have been a few positive covid-19 cases and there are still a few cases every now and again still and to prevent me or anyone from getting sick from covid-19 I’ll just use that dryer to be sure everything is all sanitized and freshened and it may be overkill but it’s better to be safe than sorry.
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Post# 1111767 , Reply# 5 3/17/2021 at 05:24 (1,136 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN) |
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 I only use Suavitel fabric softener on my towels because Downy, Gain, All, Snuggle all tend to make them too "soft" and just smear water around instead of absorbing it. All my towels are white and they all get washed in hot water and Clorox.
I work in ICU in the largest hospital in Middle Tennessee where the sickest of the sick are sent and we've never gotten sick from my uniforms that get washed in hot water also. If I've had a really buggy patient, I'll add a little fresh scent or lavender Lysol to the wash water. My gas dryer gets hot enough to kill anything else. | ||
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Post# 1111769 , Reply# 6 3/17/2021 at 05:53 (1,136 days old) by Adam-aussie-vac (Canberra ACT) |
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How on earth does that UV bulb in the dryer work? How on earth does that UV bulb in the dryer work?And is it possible to retrofit it to other dryers? Like a GE or something similar | ||
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Post# 1111775 , Reply# 7 3/17/2021 at 06:33 (1,136 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Small amount of fabric softener now and then on towels won't harm their absorbency. Routine use of the stuff, and or in large amounts is another matter.
Keep in mind of one uses soaps for bathing there is going to be that residue in wash cloths and maybe a bit on towels anyway. Then there is any residue from detergents (especially liquids which are high in surfactants nowadays), which will build up in toweling over time. Now and then it might be a good idea to "strip" toweling as described here: www.towelsupercenter.com/... Or maybe follow this advice: www.washingtonpost.com/li... turkishtowelcompany.com/how-do-i... | ||
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Post# 1111777 , Reply# 9 3/17/2021 at 07:08 (1,136 days old) by chachp (North Little Rock, AR) |
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Confused over Fabric Softener...
I've read over the years not to use FS on towels because it reduces their absorbency. Yet, the FS I use shows pictures of towels on the front and on their website it says "especially well-suited for all textiles made of terry cloth." So I'm not sure if they are saying we should use their product on towels because aren't they Terry Cloth? I use very little FS in the rinse and only occasionally. They are soft, have a nice scent and seem to be as absorbent as they should be.
I tried the laundry stripping process on towels a couple of months back and it did make a difference. The water wasn't as murky as I've seen in some you tube videos, but you could tell it removed something.
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Post# 1111781 , Reply# 10 3/17/2021 at 07:25 (1,136 days old) by mrboilwash (Munich,Germany) |
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First of all it makes a huge difference what quality the towels are.
Just like any other cotton fabric it can be made from expensive long fibers or from cheap short fibers which will tangle and pill in the washing process. You don`t see pilling of terry cotton as clearly as let`s say on a Jersey material like sweatshirts are made from, but you will notice the rough feel of on your skin. Then there can be incrustration from hard water minerals if the water is hard and detergent has repeatedly not been dosed accordingly high. The damage is usually irreversible, because strong enough acids to dissolve the limescale would also damage the fibers and stripping with phosphates would only work if those minerals have never exceeded 60 °C in the washer or dryer. Thats because limescale precipitates at this temperature. Like others I don`t see a problem using FS as long as the dose is kept at a minimum. I use less than a quarter of the recommended dose. | ||
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Post# 1111782 , Reply# 11 3/17/2021 at 07:32 (1,136 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Many Americans report that Miele fabric softener doesn't make things slick soft like Donwy or other USA similar products. This product is about one-third cationic surfactants which may have something to do with things.
Commercial and industrial laundries long have had access to a better quality of fabric softeners or conditioners. Things that aren't necessarily the gloppy fat or oil laden stuff you often find in supermarkets. Miele Care collection products seem to come from private label vendors that produce industrial laundry products. Their Ultra White detergent is quite good IMHO. Commercial laundries that to toweling, bedding and other things that are expected to be "soft" use something in final rinse in aid of that. | ||
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Post# 1111790 , Reply# 12 3/17/2021 at 09:14 (1,135 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN) |
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Post# 1111793 , Reply# 14 3/17/2021 at 09:30 (1,135 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.) |
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 I have some towels that are over 20 years old. I always wash them in hot water using the longest cycle time. For white towels I add some LCB. I stopped using LFS about 3 years ago, I don’t like the way it can leave a residue in the machine and I think the towels lose some absorbency. I do use Dryer Fabric Softener Sheets though. They keep the towels fluffy but don’t seem to leave a film on the fabric.
We have 10 sets of bath towels and I rotate them so they get equal wear. I think this can contribute to the towels lasting longer.
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Post# 1111802 , Reply# 16 3/17/2021 at 10:21 (1,135 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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I have 11sets of towels I use during fall & winter and another set of 10 or 11 I use during spring and summer. Hot water and some softener. the towels range in age from 45 years to 10 to 15 years old. So they all get fairly evenly rotated. Part of why they've lasted so long, pointedly getting rid of agitator washer & going front loader!!
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Post# 1111821 , Reply# 17 3/17/2021 at 13:30 (1,135 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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Post# 1111829 , Reply# 18 3/17/2021 at 14:34 (1,135 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie) |
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All my bath linens are white. I have two sets; one for summer and one for winter. The winter towels are bath sheets; the summer, standard large towels. All of it came from Sam's Club.
Hot (close to 150 degrees) water washes in Tide or Persil; a dose of Clorox every now and then. Have never used fabric softener on towels. I absolutely agree with Bob: My towels have aged a little faster since switching to a Speed Queen top-loader in 2017. I've finally taken John L's advice and shortened the wash time to 6-8 minutes, which reduces wear-and-tear on them. I was so used to long wash tumbles in the front-loaders that I tended to wash everything on the Max soil level (14-16 minutes on Heavy Duty and Whites cycles), which was overkill with the SQ's aggressive agitation. I've also learned to use the Bulky cycle (slow agitation; fast spin) on small to medium-sized loads. | ||
| Post# 1111839 , Reply# 19 3/17/2021 at 15:56 (1,135 days old) by Iheartmaytag (Wichita, Kansas) | ||
I have towels that my mother bought in 1980
They have literally been washed thousands of times. First in a GE filter-flo, then a Maytag Dependable Care, and finally a Maytag FL (Duet clone).
I also have some towels that were bought at Wally-world $3.99 each, that are rags in less than five years. Mom's vintage live forevers are made by Cannon. The almost dog bed ones are "whatevers" In the end, first quality may be a determining factor. | ||
| Post# 1111843 , Reply# 20 3/17/2021 at 16:17 (1,135 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
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If anyone is wondering what the UV/ozone bulb looks like in my ‘63 Whirlpool Imperial dryer, this is what it looks like
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Post# 1111880 , Reply# 21 3/18/2021 at 00:05 (1,135 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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@ appnut...
Whatever length of time your washer has for final rinse, and main "normal" wash cycle is fine. If have to choose "short" or "long" go with former. If can do wash by time eight to ten minutes should be fine. Especially with a top loader as you don't want to bat things about for too long. Wash time with top loading washer with central beaters. Maytag long advised short wash times of 3-5 minutes for their wringer washers. Things varied by certain conditions but long wash times were frowned upon because of soil depositing back on laundry, and or increase potential for wear on textiles. www.automaticwasher.org/c... Mechanical action of top loading washers is generally more aggressive than H-axis hence former can get away with shorter wash times. | ||
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Post# 1111897 , Reply# 22 3/18/2021 at 03:47 (1,135 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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Post# 1111899 , Reply# 23 3/18/2021 at 04:08 (1,135 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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You don't want it to go on for too long. Otherwise whatever is removed from items will start redepositing back onto fabric.
If towels are already clean before beginning this process there's no worries about using hot water from start. Unlike dirty laundry which would be soiled with albuminous substances likely to coagulate in presence of heat, clean items should be free of such substances. | ||
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Post# 1111913 , Reply# 24 3/18/2021 at 09:00 (1,134 days old) by chachp (North Little Rock, AR) |
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Cycle times
So.........all this talk about how long to agitate or tumble your clothes has me wondering. My washer has a ton of different wash cycles for different types of clothes and fabrics. The book lists each cycle and the different temps you can select in each cycle but it doesn't list the times for each sequence in the cycle. And for each I can set the soil level and I suspect that affects the timing for each sequence. I have a Miele washer and I can't find this on their website. Does anyone know where I can find this information? I'd like to know how the cycles break down to wash, rinse and spin and how long for each. | ||
| Post# 1111917 , Reply# 25 3/18/2021 at 10:02 (1,134 days old) by Golittlesport (California) | ||
Fluffiest towels | ||
| Post# 1111948 , Reply# 26 3/18/2021 at 16:02 (1,134 days old) by twintubdexter (Palm Springs) | ||
 Frankly, I was waiting for someone to say they did separate loads for bath towels, separate loads for hand towels and still another for wash cloths (affectionately called wash rags during my aristocratic upbringing). Unless you're going to be wearing the towel, I don't understand different sets for different seasons, but then I've never lived where it gets really cold. I use fabric softener on just about everything and have no problem with towels. Years ago I bought a set at soon-to-be-gone Kohl's called "quick dry" towels. I thought this meant they dried quickly in the dryer but no, it meant they dried you quickly. I have newer towels, some much thicker and fluffier than these, but even washed without softener, I keep going back to the QD old ones. I probably couldn't find them again. Back before Covid when I did a lot of "over-night" entertaining, I always put the new towels out as a courtesy. Just call me Mr. Thoughtful. | ||
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Post# 1111955 , Reply# 27 3/18/2021 at 17:50 (1,134 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.) |
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lol | ||
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Post# 1111989 , Reply# 29 3/18/2021 at 22:01 (1,134 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!) |
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My favorite towel washer, ever. I've been using a commercial detergent (w/phosphates) on my towels (all white) and it needs a bit of softener in the rinse or they dry rather harsh. I use a commercial softener as well, very thin consistency and very light scent. Just a couple of tablespoons is all it takes.
I have a dozen or so bath towels, 6 from Frontgate that have been some of my all-time favorites. Others are from Costco, have always been pleased with them in the past. I replaced four or so every year to eighteen months when they went on sale, but the latest batch I bought have been a let-down. Same brand but quality has declined.
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Post# 1112044 , Reply# 30 3/19/2021 at 12:44 (1,133 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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Post# 1112051 , Reply# 31 3/19/2021 at 14:48 (1,133 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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I have a set of bath towels (extra-large, bath "sheets") that I routinely wash in hot in the Neptune 7500. That means over 125F. I can squeeze in five such, no more than that, or it has trouble spinning.
They seemed to be getting a bit rough, although the water here is generally considered to be on the soft side. I did a load of five with a cup of distilled vinegar, 15 minute wash, Not surprisingly, there was a bit of sudsing. Not a lot, but definitely visible. No rinse or spin, just drain. Then I repeated the hot cycle with a cup of baking soda. Just a drain, no spin. After that I washed them with the usual HE liquid, and no fabric softener. At the end, after tumble drying they *seemed* to be a bit softer than those I hadn't washed, but the difference was quite slight. YMMV | ||
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Post# 1112057 , Reply# 32 3/19/2021 at 15:10 (1,133 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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@appnut
There is considerable debate about use of vinegar in domestic washing machines. Some strongly defend the practice saying amount of household vinegar (5% acidity) which should be small, then given amount of water it will be diluted in for rinse cycle shouldn't cause problems. OTOH there are those including professionals who say *no* to any sort of vinegar or worse, commercial laundry products in domestic washing machines. It comes down from what one has read to difference between industrial/commercial washing machines and domestic. The latter are made from metals and other substances designed to withstand repeated and frequent exposure to the powerful acids and base substances used in such laundering. Domestic washing machines OTOH are made from "soft" metals and other bits (like rubber) that can be harmed by exposure to strong acids or bases. If you notice packets of washing machine cleaners that are acidic always call for using in main wash cycle, then followed by one or more rinses. This one supposes brings down pH level on interior surfaces by using fresh water which should be at or near neutral pH. It isn't just vinegar, but citric or any other acid is on that no-no list as well. www.bosch-home.com/us/own... www.bosch-home.com/us/owner-supp... www.consumerreports.org/cleaning... www.houzz.com/discussions/241496... Interestingly am reading in more and more owner manuals for at least European H-axis washing machines that long as a good (preferably powder) detergent is used in proper dosing, use of separate limescale removing products aren't necessary. www.yourspares.co.uk/advi... | ||
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Post# 1112061 , Reply# 33 3/19/2021 at 16:44 (1,133 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands) |
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Post# 1112062 , Reply# 34 3/19/2021 at 16:50 (1,133 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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To some extent most washing machine "cleaners" contain some sort of acid. However what makers know and most end users do not is that complex formula of product means it is buffered to a pH that shouldn't harm washing machine parts.
Bosch, Miele and others who sell such products know what range pH of water at proper dilution (when product is used as directed) will be. Something that will elude domestic users simply pouring various amounts of different acids do not. www.which.co.uk/reviews/w... www.amazon.com/Bosch-00311925-Wa... | ||
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Post# 1112066 , Reply# 35 3/19/2021 at 17:20 (1,133 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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I have run smaller amounts of vinegar in lieu of fabric softener in the Neptune MAH 7500 multiple times in the past, and haven't experienced any problems with component damage. So I don't think the rubber components have been adversely affected, nor any of the metal part (which appear to be good quality stainless steel). After I saw posts here warning that vinegar as a fabric softener might do damage, I stopped using it. But given my positive experience I might resume its usage, although I'm also not sure it's necessary. A few ounces in the final rinse likely will not leave any harmful acidity in the machine anyway.
For loads other than towels I usually add a TBS STPP, and generally I use a liquid HE detergent (currently the excellent Kirkland Ultra Clean HE Liquid); I use enough to produce a very thin layer of suds. | ||
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Post# 1112078 , Reply# 36 3/19/2021 at 18:26 (1,133 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.) |
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So we Shouldn't question if bleach will harm a rubber boot, bleach being something poisonous to all life,
but we SHOULD question vinegar? Vinegar is something we can freely ingest, and do when eating pickles or other such foods. I keep white vinegar in a spray bottle to use for all types of eco-friendly cleaning and personal hygiene. When flossing I will use a spray of vinegar to rinse my mouth as a mild antiseptic. | ||
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Post# 1112092 , Reply# 37 3/19/2021 at 22:36 (1,133 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Do I have to explain to you the difference between consuming foods soaked in brine versus drinking straight vinegar? Go ahead, drink a glass of white or apple cider vinegar and report back.
And for your further information chlorine bleach is not some benign substance; it can in many instance harm certain washing machine parts. Many makers of European washing machines do not recommend use of it, or only in limited manner. Some have had to give in to chlorine bleach use as Americans love the stuff, and use copious amounts yearly for laundry purposes. OTOH in Europe eau de Javel long has been known for the damage it can cause textiles and other issues. Hence their preference for oxygen bleaching at high or boiling water temperatures. Am not seeking to start WWIII over this matter; if anyone wants to use vinegar, citric acid, hydrochloric acid, or anything else can get hands on, knock yourselves out.... | ||
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Post# 1112100 , Reply# 38 3/19/2021 at 23:22 (1,133 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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Preach it/Sing it Launderess!!
I haven't used LCB since getting my Duet December 2011 with it's Allergen and Sanitize wash temperatures combined with Tide Powder w/Bleach Alternative. European approach all the way!! Gimme a washer with an onboard heater any day. Far more civilized!!! And my garments that used to require LCB are lasting much longer.
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Post# 1112101 , Reply# 39 3/19/2021 at 23:41 (1,133 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Post# 1112105 , Reply# 40 3/20/2021 at 00:30 (1,133 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Let's see Laundrest:
1) A cup of vinegar diluted with about five gallons of water isn't going to corrode anything any time soon. And probably would be quite drinkable. 2) Vinegar is basically 5% acetic acid, and as such far less aggressive, say, than hydrochloric acid. Which by the way, our tummies (even yours!) produce to help digest foods. 3) I used to like to take a swig of vinegar after dining out at Chinese restaurants. Seemed to help with digestion. And amazed my dinner companions. 4) Vinegar is what makes a good salad dressing rock. Hasn't killed anybody yet, AFAIK. 5) Your mileage, no matter how pedestrian, may vary. 6) Agree about chlorine bleach. Only use it for disinfection outside the washer. And then, quite rarely. In the washer, oxygen bleach, if needed, works quite well. And STPP works as well for lifting stains from fabrics. | ||
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Post# 1113084 , Reply# 42 3/28/2021 at 22:10 (1,124 days old) by CleanteamofNY ((Monroe, New York) |
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Well, these days I use 3/4 cups of Arial, 1/2 cup of Borax, 1/2 A&H Washing Soda using a warm water Normal wash. The rinse is 15 minutes long using warm water and 2 caps full of Lysol Laundry Sanitizer and 2 unscented Bounce sheets in the dryer. The towels are very absorbent with a light scent of Lysol. | ||
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Post# 1113641 , Reply# 44 4/3/2021 at 19:55 (1,118 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Almost the way I've been folding the bath towels, but I've been folding lengthwise in half first, instead in thirds. I'll have to try the thirds and see if that saves space.
I've been keeping the cleaned bath towels in a spare laundry basket in the bath, but the cat has decided that's a perfect napping spot. So I'll probably start moving them into the bathroom cabinet, after I clear that out. And yes, I'll leave the spare basket in the bath with some old pillows so the cat doesn't rebel. | ||
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Post# 1113723 , Reply# 45 4/4/2021 at 19:02 (1,117 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 1113726 , Reply# 46 4/4/2021 at 19:45 (1,117 days old) by mrsalvo (New Braunfels Texas) |
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Rich, you are welcome. I, too, was suprised I had more room, and they look nicer too. Had no idea. Barry | ||
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Post# 1113727 , Reply# 47 4/4/2021 at 19:51 (1,117 days old) by countryguy (Astorville, ON, Canada) |
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Post# 1113737 , Reply# 48 4/4/2021 at 20:43 (1,117 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 1113739 , Reply# 49 4/4/2021 at 21:03 (1,117 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.) |
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I’ve been folding then this way for 50 years. When they are folded in thirds they hang on the towel bars or rings nicer too, and the works already done before you hang them.
And yes they do take more room height wise on the shelf, but I can get the hand towels and bath towels side by side in our linen closet and this way they are stacked together in order. Makes rotation easier too. The freshest laundered towels go at the bottom of the stack and the next set to be used is the set on top of the stack.
Eddie This post was last edited 04/04/2021 at 21:37 | ||
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Post# 1113823 , Reply# 50 4/5/2021 at 18:34 (1,116 days old) by countryguy (Astorville, ON, Canada) |
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Eddie,
Your method of storing towels is the same as what I do...fresh laundered on the bottom and next to be used on top with the bath and hand towels side by side. I guess I have too many towels because when I tried folding them in thirds I couldn't fit them all on the shelf whereas folding them in half, I can just make them fit LOL Gary | ||
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Post# 1113824 , Reply# 51 4/5/2021 at 19:15 (1,116 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.) |
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Gary, Our linen closet is a little narrow but deep, the shelves do accommodate hand and bath towels folded in thirds side by side, I just keep two rows of them with one stack of hand and bath towels in the back and another in the front. The rotation requires a little juggling because the most freshly laundered towels go in the back with the one laundered before in the front.
Eddie
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Post# 1113925 , Reply# 52 4/6/2021 at 16:31 (1,115 days old) by countryguy (Astorville, ON, Canada) |
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Post# 1138639 , Reply# 55 1/7/2022 at 04:28 (840 days old) by DaveAMKrayoGuy (Oak Park, MI) |
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My mom used to wash my dad’s work towels and her BOL Maytag A106 washer was the perfect washer to them in…
I asked her about putting fabric softener in its dispenser but she said not to because it would affect their absorbency… Around that time, I had a coworker who had a neighbor who had a wringer washer she used only for washing her husband’s work clothes in, much the same way… — Dave | ||
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Post# 1138833 , Reply# 57 1/9/2022 at 13:28 (837 days old) by reactor (Oak Ridge, Tennessee-- ) |
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soft towels, ozone, lemon juice and Betty White
Residual detergents left in cotton towels can give them a stiffness, that is undesirable. With so many of today's poor rinsing washers, it is no wonder people complain of stiff towels.
After the washer completes its first cycle, with a load of towels, I run them through another entire cycle without detergent...with the washer set for warm rinse. I also learned a little trick from Betty White (GOD bless her) on The Mary Tyler Moors Show. Recall the episode where Lou spends the night with Sue Ann Nivens. Sue Ann, the next morning, returns Lou's socks, which he had left, and tells him that she rinsed them in Lemon juice so they would be fresh smelling. I tried it and it works wonderfully. I put about 2/3 cup of lemon juice in the next to last rinse for all my laundry. It smells better than vinegar, helps to neutralize the alkalinity of any residual detergent, clothes feel soft and there is a very slight lemony freshness. Seems to help with my allergy to detergents as well. My towels are soft and fluffy. Thank you, Betty White. As far as Ultra-Violet light. My mother's 1960 or 61 one Whirlpool Imperial Mark XII washer had that same UV light. Being about five or six years old, I don't recall if our clothes were particularity fresh smelling because of the ozone. They may have been. Not all UV lamps produce ozone. I believe Whirlpool used the same lamp that Pollenex did it its table-top "air purifiers" of the day. People called them "ozone lamps" lamps as opposed to ultraviolet maps or bulbs.. I do recall my dad explaining ultra-violet light to me, when I asked him about what the blue light in the dryer was for. He explained how UV light works (as best you can to a five/six year old). He also told me UV light, from the sun, is also what makes one tan. If the door of our Whirlpool was opened. interrupting the dry cycle, the UV light stayed on. When there were no clothes in the dryer, I would start the cycle then open the door and put my head in the dryer with my face close to bulb....hoping I would get a tan, ha. I had no idea how long it took, I guess I thought it was instant. I also didn't know this bulb was not producing UV-A or UV-B rays, so at best I was just disinfecting my face, and breathing ozone. Interesting thing about UV, it's a totally different animal in various areas of its spectral range. At some areas in the spectra it produces no ozone, others areas it does produce ozone, and in other areas it actually destroys ozone. About 240 to 280 manometers, UV light will break the bond of the third oxygen atom in the ozone molecule and liberate it, leaving an O2 oxygen molecule. UV light can tan, it can kill even antibiotic resistant bacteria, it can create ozone, or it can actually destroy ozone. Very versatile. What it does i solely dependent on where it is at in the spectrum. | ||
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