I mean why were they so big considering modern dishwashers get dishes clean with a 50 watt motor?

Why not make a two port sump (think plastisol tubs) and add a removable find filter basket?  180 watt wash pump like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GE-Washer-Drain...

And a 25 watt drain pump like this but in shaded pole version:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GE-WD19X10015-D...

Frog eye or cat eye spray arm with small holes. Continuous advancement timer (like on GE machines) where the drain pump starts and the wash motor shuts off 30 seconds latter. Similarly after the drain pump shuts off, fill starts and 30 seconds latter the wash pump comes on. 

I think this would have been cheaper, used less water and reduced carry over water found in many designs.

Why not have gone this route? Speed Queen could pull if off today if we wanted a no frill machine but also respected modern design. 

The KD10-14 machines had a 1/4 HP motor and the KD15-22 machines had a 1/2 HP motor.

Whirlpool did claim that the KD23 series had a 1/2 HP motor but it was the same size as the standard WP DW motor which was rated at 1/3 HP.

These large split phase motors were reliable but only about 30% efficient at best at converting power used to washing power.

John L.

Supposedly now, those smaller motors can do more, maybe with advanced technology doing more than we'd thought--or maybe they're strong to the finish 'cause they must eat lots o' spinach...!

-- Dave

Sadly, all true Dan. Big motors are noisy and reduce capacity at face value- so few want them now. I say at face value in that while a tall tub can hold more dishes, nothing is gained with any type of scrubbing, pre-rinsing, or pre-washing as with so many of today's tall tubs.

Nothing can outperform a Whirlpool Power Clean Filter module. It is the true definition of loading baked on, dried on, nasty without any type of pre-treatment coming out spotless with minimum water and energy.

The following is what a real dishwasher looks like. Simple and cheap, energy efficient- yet long lasting lasting, no nonsense, and 100% clean.

40 minute main wash, heater runs the whole time to achieve temps in excess of 150*F, lots of pressure and water movement, plus the famous soil removal, retention and flush away of the PC module.

The fact that nothing like this has ever been built is everything that is wrong with the world.

Enjoy! :)

Jerome, want a real results? You need several things:

1) Main wash water temps over 150*F, preferably 180-190*F.

2) Main wash times of at least 30 minutes, preferably longer.

3) water volume

4) water pressure

5) multi directional targeted water distribution

6) strong maceration

7) High capacity fine filter

8) particle flush away

9) Long heated detergent prewash (if needed)

Every dishwasher ever sold has been some combination of these 9, but never has anyone actually sold a dishwasher that managed to meet all 9 in the high notes despite being feasible with minimal engineering.

People are being sold jokes Jerome that always manage to come centimeters close to the itch but never actually scratch it, thats for sure. 

Well I think to a degree they do care- you've got folks pre-rinsing without fully realizing its a reaction to the fact most modern dishwashers (and even some old ones) just can't clean like a Power Clean Filter Module, Hobart Kitchen-Aid or Maytag JetClean. 

If everyone was like me the Power Clean Filter Module with the above wiring diagram and cycle sequence would probably dominate being in 98% of all Kitchens. I say probably, because chances are that Power Clean Module would be complimented with a water inlet temperature booster and a second set of fresh water spray arms as seen in commercial dish machines.

Ignore the the energy star label, its won't mean a thing in my world ROTFIL!!!!!!!

@Johnb300m- Please I politely ask you to stop with the negativity. Post #29 adds nothing of value to the discussion.

Anyway, yes, the Heavy wash on this dishwasher does indeed use 13.2 gallons of water per cycle. The timer can be started in 3 places:

Heavy- 13.2 Gallons

Medium - 11 Gallons

Light - 8.8 Gallons  

None of these cycles waste water or electricity- on the contrary they save order of magnitude more water and electricty as there is no need to manually pre-rinse, prewash, soak, scrub, use the rinse and hold cycle, afresh cycle or the need to clean the machines filter. All that is taken and done by the machine.

The water ussage here is the ideal amount needed to realistically clean dishware unlike the DOE energy cycle which only takes water and energy usage at face value without evaluating actual performance short and long term. There is even an extra fill and drain in the rinse cycle to let the user generously dose on detergent worry free (if needed) and to aid in soil carry away post main wash. Dishes in this machine actually go in untouched besides scrapping. Water should never touch used plates until they are actually in the dishwasher.      

@ John- cite the forum rules stating personally made or fair use drawings, pictures, re-productions, schematics, cycles, or modifications pertaining to vintage appliances shall not be posted or discussed on AW.org.      

@Johnb300m:

I've got 3 BOL cycle sequences that use only 8.8 gallons of water- however unless you pre-rinse your dishes well I highly doubt you'd want to use any of these three cycles or have the same water going around for 30+ minutes even though you would probably still get good results with the Power Clean Filter Module. IMO you need extra water for pre-washing and pre-rinsing excessive soils associated with dishware that has not been pre-rinsed. 

Variant one, long heated rinse for best drying-

imgur.com/a/5cPMgy4...

Variant two, shortened rinse- 

imgur.com/a/LrWl7bE...

Variant three, long main wash for baked on soils, no time given for building thermal inertia in the rinse, heated dry increased by 6 minutes to compensate- 

imgur.com/a/XdzK8vG...

Jerome let me know what you think and what you approve of.

I worked hard on them, even had to do the math. My head hurts LOL. I'm glad you like and approve of them, that means a lot to me.

I think one of the best things would be getting rid of the thermal hold for a fixed period of heated time in both the prewash, mainwash and final rinse. This lets the water temps exceed 140*F, giving that true Potscrubber performance. It also increases reliability as I've read online threads where Power Clean timers would fail by stalling out at the thermal hold and not advance even when temperatures were satisfied. Ditching all the thermal hold wiring and switching to an energy efficient low vibration permanent split capacitor motor frees up contacts in both the 6 and 8 contact row timers for things like various indicator lights and staggered timed heat. A cycling contact can provide intermittent heat for China washes while a long duration close contact can provide Pot and Pans heating as similarly done with high end dura-wash dishwashers to achieve normal vs hi-temp options. Much less to go wrong. 

Option buttons will control heat, knob will control the number fills for MOL and up models.   

Alright Dan, now you've done it. 30 minute heated rinse! I'm still including a dry, I like my dishware baked!

The thing is water coming already hot (+145*F) will trigger a short main wash (12 minutes) when the time needed to scour dish and bake-ware (30-40 minutes) would provide ample time to heat the water as it is.

I feel like thermal holds were a way of the past by not penalizing users who had hot water. Those with 150*F tanks could still enjoy normal cycle times or at least normal for that period of time.

A 150*F thermal hold followed by a 180*F thermal would require two thermostats, or one stat with a bias heater further complicating things. Robustness is a key ingredient in any appliance, however simplicity will always take it to the next level eliminating at least one more thing that can go wrong when millions of machines are in use. Small 0.001% problems become problems on a grand scale. Also ff something does go wrong (like the heater giving out) there is no fail safe as the machine will run indefinitely until manually stopped. Personally I really don't like the concept of breaking busses in the timer, re-feeding, extraneous switching or stalling the timer based on external inputs.   

I've always like GE's approach. They moved away from temperature sensing based water heating on their EM models and built the time into the main wash and rinse cycles. I like the idea of the timer being absolute, at the top running above all else switched across the line by a single contact having the final say in any cycle sequence.   

I like GE's latter model Potscrubber water heating system the best. The timer runs continually through out the entire cycle, being at the top of the circuit switched by only one master timer contact (0M-0T) that does not open until the timer advance out of the dry period. Where a thermal hold would normally be present, GE uses a 29 minute delayed timer increment with a dedicated "Wet Heat" 4M-4T water heating contact. This contact is hard wired and can not be over-ridden, mimicking a forced thermal hold. If extra heat is desired to obtain water hotter than normal, achievable by selecting "Potscrubber" or "Water Heat", 10 minutes of heat is added around the delayed increment, in the first pre wash and in the final rinse for a true high temp wash experience. Depressing "Water Heat" closes push-button contacts 9-10 and 14-15 connecting the water heat light and supplementary 6M-6T "Heat Boost" contact to the heating element circuit. This illuminates the water heat light every time the heating element is energized letting the user know tub water is being heated much the same way some Whirlpool dishwashers illuminated a heating delay light when doing a thermal hold.  

In any case all cycles have a long 40 or 43 minute main wash regardless of the incoming water temperature. Heating temperatures and cycles are achieved by the amount of time the heater is engaged in the cycle rather than the amount of time the timer is stalled. Just my preference. 

 TOL Dura wash machines use a similar concept.

As an example a TOL GE built Amana: 

This is another water heating system I really like and I wish was used on the Power Clean Modules. Pots&Pans and Hi-Temp wash is achieved by adding heat at various parts of the cycle.  For example, contact 6 provides 24 minutes of mandatory water heating in the main wash, 80 seconds of mandatory watering heat in the first post main wash rinse and 5.3 minutes of mandatory water heating in the final rinse. Depressing Pots & Pans connects timer contact 7 to the heating element circuit providing 5 minutes 20 seconds of water heating through the first pre wash. This heat differentiates the same number of water change outs between being classed as "Pots and Pans" vs "Heavy Wash" Depressing push-button "Hi-Temp Wash" connects timer contact 8 to the heating element circuit providing 2 minutes 40 seconds of water heating in the main wash and 8 minutes of water heating in the final rinse.  

Interesting concept I'd like to see stretched. Having the number of water change outs and time dictated by the user selection of the dial, while an array of options like "Pots and Pans" "Heavy" "Normal" "Light" "Low energy" "China Crystal" "Hi-Temp Wash" and "Hi-Temp Rinse" would dictate the amount of heat added to the Prewash, Main Wash and Final Rinse.   

@Lavamat_Jon: What happens to all the food solids in your machine? Is there a macerator? Don't take this the wrong way but I can't picture these UK machines passing a cake test like the Power Cleans could. Or be as easy to service. Or as long lasting.

I do thank you for the backed on pan coming out clean. That does sway my opinion in favor of your machine- you have proved that your machine is capable of scrubbing.

Sean, I'll be honest. Excluding the bake dish, I have a feeling that a certain amount of pre-rinsing is going on in Europe. I'm not saying Lavamat is pre-rinsing, just the average EU person in general. Water should never touch anything prior to going into a dishwasher.

Correct me if I'm wrong, it sounds like there are food bits at the bottom of the dishwasher at the end of the cycle. Without a macerator, the drain pump can only accept food bits up to a certain size- the rest has to be separated out. Whats left sits on top of the grate. Filters should not need cleaning either, it is the job of the dishwashers to be self cleaning for life.

In the Power Clean filter module unless a person wittingly decides not to scrap whole slices of food or intentionally places large unbreakable chunks of food into the dishwasher, food bits slip through the almost grape sized tub protruding louvers encircling the mechanism where they are then pulled into a beefy 1/3 HP (500 watt plus +++) 3450 rpm macerator and ground up into fine particles. A good portion of the water is then pumped into the filter chamber where the ground food accumulates and settles while water exits out through the fine filter. Holes at the bottom of the wash arm spray downward washing the fine filter squares preventing food soils from clogging them or permanently sticking to them. At drain, the filter chamber is pumped out directly- settled soils can not in any way migrate back into the tub- all accumulated soil in the chamber leaves through the machines drain hose and into the homes plumbing. The soil chamber is huge and can hold a LOT of food soil- soil from the worse cases of food bits stuck to every dish possible. In a EU machine I can just imagine the fine filter becoming totally clogged into the main wash. The Power Clean Filter Module stops just short of an insink garbage disposer. 

To give you an idea, here is a disassembly of a late model US Power Clean Filter Module. What the vid doesn't do full justice or show how much area volume is inside the soil chamber.

The whole mechanism being changed out in the Kitchen Aid version- I like the big motor and pump size

To get this true self cleaning, true none pre-rinsing design to work you're going to need a bit of water to maximize its full potential.

Those dishes have to be going in relatively clean or with relatively little soil load to produce the results you describe. I can't imagine detergent being able to dissolve bigger food bits let along in large quantities.

A macerator is a necessary part in every aspect including saving energy. You should not rely on manual clean filters or sump grates- particles need to be ground up, separated, and then flushed down the drain in the same load. Anything less will force loading pre-prep which significantly increases energy use.

Perhaps what you see as dishwasher mis-use is actually the right way to use a dishwasher and I could see how you came to that inference when your design might not allow for proper soil handling. You're simply altering your patterns until the machine you're using produces the great cleaning results you want to see. Coming to the conclusion this is normal and acceptable based on the reduction of energy use. It is no secret the the soil soiled dishes are going into a machine the less water is required to clean them inside the machine. 

Granted I'm not there as I have not witnessed or experienced what you have experienced. So I could be wrong. At the same time I do know that when Americans including myself switched to tall tubs the results were not the same as their or my Power Clean Module. A friend of mind even had his spray arm tall tub holes clog. 

Only acceptable luck I've ever had with a tall tub is my former MDB Maytag and currently near identical Maytag MDB7979SHZ0 which is based on the Power Clean Filter Module design. It has a macerator, self cleaning fine filter, and can use up to 16 gallons of water with the right options and soil sensing inputs.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/sm-backend-production-attachments/instruction-sheet-w11172665a.pdf

I sure hope you're dishwasher's soil sensor would modify the cycle to 16 gallons of water if the load was dirty enough. Please tell me it can. 

So John, why don't you ditch your Power Cleans for a modern tall tub? You claim modern tall tubs clean even better with less water, noise and energy. So why not do the right thing and save the planet? You can even hand your Power Cleans over to me since I don't mind noise, water and less clean dishes. 

Dishwasher longevity and reliability peaked in 1983 to 1991 especially with the introduction of the GE Perma-Tuff Potscrubber which was the pinnacle of it all.

Other than those being forced into using modern machines I have no doubt there is a substantial number of folks who like the increase in capacity and quietness tall tubs offer on the premise most of the dishware cleaning is already done beforehand. The inability of tall tubs and manual clean filter system to handle food bits does not make itself known to the user. You have to realize that, tragically, a large number of the population has grown up with dishwashers without fine filters, no or insufficient main wash heating, broken macerators, deliberately shortened main wash times, insufficient water change outs, short cycle times, poor water distribution, no upper wash arm (I'm excluding GE's pop up tower here), no power shower, bargain dish-washing detergents, hard water, undersized detergent cups, or a combination of all these things which has permanently conditioned people to pre wash and pre-prep their dishware to varying yet significant degrees. 

Prerinsed dishware isn't going to matter in a tall tub, of course people will see whats next that being reduced noise and the feel good of perceived energy savings deriving hedonic fulfillment from these gains.

The Power Clean on the other hand with reasonable time, enough hot water and good detergent will out clean anything being able to provide a true level minimal dish prep. Scrape, load, and wash. You should not even have to pre-treat pots and pans. Load and wash. Water should never touch the vast majority of dishware prior to turning the machine on. The WP PC is capable of doing just that. As all dishwashers should.     

@Lavamat: I have no doubt your dishwasher cleaned that bake pan, loaded as is. However, you have an excellent example of soil removal from just one surface, not soil handling and or soil elimination of the machine itself. All that pan does is turn the water red/brown in color. (forgive my cynical nature here)

Soil handling and soil elimination comes in three parts:

1) being able to load a used salad bowl and cooked on egg in a stainless pan and not have any of the food bits be at the bottom of the machine at the end of the cycle and not have any of it be in the fine filter of the machine.  

2) How would your dishwasher adapt or handle every single plate, pan, bowl, dish, cup and utensil looking like that bake pan inside and out under an extreme Bobload condition? Would there be enough water to carry away all that soil? Would there be enough water use and change outs in the cycle such that the final rinse water is crystal clear, clean enough to drink without flavor, minus rinse aid? (forgive my analogy) 

3) The ability to stop macerated particles from ending up on surfaces at the end of the cycle. This is where the final filter comes in, and from what I'm seeing both your machine, my machine and a Power Clean module do that with excellence so I think we can all agree on #3 being superb. 

I used to cook most of my meals from scratch, but after buying a Sharp R-21LCFS commercial microwave oven experiencing profoundly even cooking without splatter, drying, burning, or temperature gradients at full 1000 watts of output power along with its understandable easy to use nature I became deeply smittened switching over entirely canned, frozen and pre-made meals. The time savings, ease, convince, tasty and congenial outcome has me psychologically addicted.   

As of late that is changing primarily because of farmer markets I've started to cook some of my own meals again relying less on my microwave oven.

Here is my dishwasher. On normal without options it uses 3 gallons of water, but on Powerblast with options and food soil it can go well above 9 gallons.

imgur.com/a/a539ErE...

imgur.com/a/UEeirwE...

imgur.com/a/7SPWrfG...

16 gallons is not wasteful at all when its required. Whirlpool seems to think so, and I can understand why. You need water to carry soil away.

Despite everything it still can not outperform the Power Clean Filter Module but does perform well over all.

No filter to clean.

Do you have pictures and a model # to your Miele?

My Maytag dishwasher has both a macerator and fine filter.

I can't picture a machine being able to seriously clean without either. 

Yes food gobs that are to big to go through the Power Clean louvers have to be picked out by hand but that should be very rare- big bits should be scrapped off. The rest is handled well by the power clean. I can't see many medium sized bits of food that can get into a Power Clean leaving a Miele.

Post pics of the inside when you can. No offense, I can't see that handling bits of food like a Power Clean. I wish the EU had 230 volt 50Hz power cleans with the space to install them. The dishwasher in post #13, and its latter iterations, should be all over Europe.

Interesting.

How many gallons of water for each cycle? Is there a soil sensor? My model has a turbidity sensor that sends light through the water to determine how the cycle should progress. Poor light shine through indicates the need for more water change outs and loner cycle times.

My motor is an across the line PSC, with food chopper.

Here is the motor, both wash arms run at the same time including the top sprayer:

Clean mine, too--and what a difference it makes when I don't have things that have to be rewashed...

Put on gloves of course, and have to bear with removing stuff that looks like I just ate often after I just ate (yeeeccchhh!!!!)...

So, no, no dishwasher other than some having a built-in scrap grinder designed to pulverize small particles of food, a dishwasher is not a food-waste disposal...

Success speaks for itself--and that is mine never gets clogged up and full of water from any of the gunk I really am led to believe a dishwasher is capable of getting off--none really is!!!!

I remove my own threatening amounts, and in short, everything gets clean...

-- Dave

Filters in dishwashers ought to be self cleaning. This is specifically why I bought my Maytag dishwasher. I've never had to clean a filter and I can load dirty.

I'd really like to try your machines out with your detergent and your softened water. Its possible they may actually achieve great results with true prep-less loading. Being honest I am skeptical as your machines are different from anything I've known to achieve great results. So I'll remain humble on this one, its only fair and logical thing to do. I am not about ego, but rather performance so I'll take your word albeit still be skeptical on my part.

There are two things however we may have to disagree on potentially:

How water and energy are used is trivial in terms of production. There are forums of energy which are essentially free and so abundant they make end use conservation irrelevant. With our modern production of water and energy the impact conservation makes is almost non existent. I don't want to derail this thread so I will leave it at that.  

Looking at the wiring, programming and construction of EU machines makes them more complicated than many US machines, especially older US machines. Complexity only creates longevity and serviceability problems for the end user even if it saves a lot of energy.

Out of all the the tall tub dishwashers I've researched and owned the Maytag MDB series is by far the best I've ever used. By far. The cycle will adapt significantly to soil adding water, change outs, purges, time and heat as needed. No stinginess. The motor labelled 0.18 HP, small, but still more powerful than most modern tall tubs. There is a soft food chopper that grinds thing well. And of course excellent fine filtration. It is the best tall tub dishwasher Whirlpool has ever made and then some.

  www.repairclinic.com/Part...

www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/...

Can you quote the manual I posted or show me what two filters need cleaning? I've never cleaned anything. The metal shield is crimped in place. My understanding is you are not supposed to touch the mechanism as its 100% self cleaning. No smells or stink either.

Overall I am happy with my Maytag, it is the second best thing next to a Power Clean Module and I'm not taking anything for granted as time has taught me. My biggest mistake was leaving the Power Clean behind at the old place. Dumb, because even back in the 2000s I had an understanding of what dishwashers were good and what weren't. By the time I wised up and went looking to buy a new Power Clean they were already out of production.

This is my second Maytag MDB, the first one I had a while back was even quieter than this one had the silk gliding rail which Whirlpool has since discontinued. The plastic retainers began failing and the that ball bearings began popping out falling into the sump and eventually the macerator where they would make noise. Eventually the rail broke apart and the top rack kept falling into the lower rack. I had to rip tie the broken rail in place rendering the top rack unusable. That and the amount of ball bearings the pump had swallowed (at least three dozen) drove me to buy a near identical machine new but without the satin glide racks. The new model has a long heated dry option which is great.

Thanks for the compliment!

Ah, OK, I see now what you're doing. Yes the module can be taken apart if something gets inside or becomes cruddy.

Personally I've never cleaned the power module. I just load, use one or two Cascade Platinum plus pods one in the main detergent drawer and one in the silverware basket for cooked on loads/cruddy loads. Great results.

Keep your dishwashers in service as long as you can. This is probably the second best dishwasher ever produced in existence. It is reasonably durable, sturdy, tough racks, flexible loading, great scrubbing, soil handling, quiet, long heated dry and the turbidity sensor will add as much heat and water as reasonably needed to get the load spotless. 

I don't know why folks here are showing show much disapproval over water consumption. Yes this machine can get a load of fully pre-rinsed dishes clean with only 3 gallons of water. However when you load batter, grease and mashed potato caked on loads along with week old plates the extra water change outs make all the difference in the world.

On other thing worth mentioning. I don't use rinse-aid. Despite this glasses dry streak and spot free. This dishwasher is definitely Whirlpools top 10 best products. 

@Dadoes: I think we will have to agree to disagree. The edible food being "tossed" in is how dishes are supposed to be prepped- very minimally. Bowls, pans, saucers, ect will always have bits food stuck to them- sometimes more than others depending on the sauce or how clingy the food bits are. It is not practical to remove every piece unless you want to waste time, water or both.  

The comments on the video in post #73 describe a common problem encountered by Americans- grunge build-up due to insufficient food particle management in modern dishwashers.

Before anyone say this is only the result of dishwasher misuse I encourage you to read Post# 941638 in this thread:

www.automaticwasher.org/c...

We know how John loads his dishwashers. Unlike most Americans John had the option of going back to a dishwasher that actually works. Other Americans don't have that option tiring of the constant smells/grunge/cleaning/service calls and just switch to pre-rinsing dishes wasting on orders of magnitude more water than any dishwasher has ever used.

@Maytaga806: Yes, I have the same issue. The dispenser is completely filled with water and the detergent tab is fully dissolved. There are even suds in the pre-rinse water. Sadly I've used many dishwashers where the dispenser becomes completely filled with water including latter model GE.

Whirlpool standard tubs got it right, they had a seal all the way around the main detergent lid, and the latch would force the lid to stay firmly down.

Most of the problems everyone refers to here will not exist.  

My MIL is 89 and lives alone in her family house and years ago had a very expensive KitchenAid dishwasher installed there.  It did have the porcelain tub so must have been soon after the Whirlpool takeover.  

Recently my sister and her husband went to her house and found the dishwasher stunk of high heaven.  Some of the other neighbors came over and took the machine apart and cleaned the filters and they were all full of gross gunk.  How did it get that way?

My sister asked "Alice" where she kept the Cascade or Finish and she didn't know, it turns out Alice ran the machine without detergent at all. 

Her water heater was also turned down so that it was barely warm enough for a shower.  

She stocked Alice up with paper plates and utensils, bought some detergent and turned up the water heater some (telling Alice she did that and be careful), hopefully the odors will not come back.

Oh, and Alice did pre rinse (It seems like mostly women do this) using a lot of water and since she is on septic there were wet spots in the back yard.  

You're not the only one. Modern dishwasher detergent dispensers suck.

The Power Clean could hold you through a pre wash thermal hold, and then dispense nice, fresh detergent for the main wash. A true marvel. The Power Clean was a perfected design in almost every way possible, a timeless classic. It could have easily stayed in production for decades more. If everyone was like me the Power Clean would in 95% of all Kitchens with Hobart Kitchen Aid type construction. Available in Polymer, Stainless Steal and Porcelain on Steal from BOLs all the way up to TOL models. Single cycle dispenser-less entry level machines all the way up to deluxe multi cycle LCD control tri dispenser multi orbital wash arm models and everything in between. Indestructible metal screw on drain check valve assembly. The module and motor would be a regularly replaceable item stocked in stores and online- as common as the direct drive motor coupler. Molex plug wire harness such that different timers, cycle fascias, escutcheons, ect can be adapted to almost any machine. 

The world would simply stop prewashing dishes and at 11 gallons of water per cycle on average water consumption would drop dramatically compared to modern tall tubs.

What would you have done if you were faced with our "Alice situation"?

Forgive my ignorance, but what are you referring to as an Alice Situation?

Turn up the temp and instruct the use of lots of detergent. I don't know how well generous detergent dosing would work for a year, so I might have to clean the sump and pump out. 

chetlaham:  Forgive my ignorance, but what are you referring to as an Alice Situation?

Jerome, your observations are correct. To wash dishes you need four things:

1) Mechanical energy

2) Chemical energy

3) Thermal energy

4) Time

When one or more of these are reduced others must be increased to compensate. Exception for enzymes which work in stages over time. This is why modern dishwashers spend so much time washing and rinsing to compensate for weak low pressure, low volume sprays and low thermal hold satisfaction points.

Modern dishwashers simply do not use enough water, and do not have the macerators, filters or large enough pumps to properly capture, grind, collect and carry away food soils. Soils accumulate within the internal parts of the machine accumulating and begining to smell over time. Modern dishwashers are not practical or capable in residential applications. 

People did not know what they had with the Power Clean Filter module and Maytag Jetclean. Even commercial dish machines with motors 1HP and over are not meant to handle un-preped dishes as food bits just accumulate on top of the sump strainer.  Commercial machines are meant to be used for fine cleaning and sanitation. 

https://www.jacksonwws.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DishStar-LT-Operation-Guide.pdf

Unlike a restaurant, residential users typically have the luxury of waiting an hour for their machines to complete a cycle- enough time for a machine to do pre-rinsing, scouring, coarse cleaning, soil roundup, automatic filter cleaning in addition to fine cleaning and sanitation. There is no reason why users must complete 5 steps prior to turning on their machines in order to have civilized results- ie not having stink over time.   

Oh, what a dream come true that would be!