Thread Number: 873
Kenmore Dryer Help
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Post# 52084   12/31/2004 at 07:15 (7,049 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

I have a Kenmore Electric dryer that I purchased new in '92. Yesterday it stopped heating up, it tumbles, but doesn't heat. I assume it is the heating element. How difficult are these to replace? Can I do it myself, and about how much do these cost for the part, or to have replaced by someone else?

I also have the matching direct drive washer, it has starting knocking during agitation, it also spins the agitator one complete round before engaging the neutral drain. Any ideas on that?





Post# 52092 , Reply# 1   12/31/2004 at 09:51 (7,048 days old) by partscounterman (Cortez, Colorado)        
Things to check

First check your fuse or circuit breaker. Sometimes if the circuit breaker has not been "ganged" togethers, the heater side could trip and the motor would still run

Your thermal fuse may have failed. Some machines will not run at all when the thermo fuse fails. Check the wiring diagram and check the thermal fuses for continuity. They should show a closed circuit.

Also check the heating element for continuity. A bad heating element will read as an open circuit.

Getting at you heating element is easy. If your lint filter pulls out of the top of the machine, you access the heating element through the back panel.

If your filter is in the front of the drum, remove screws at base of control panel, flip it back. Now the top will slide forward and be removed. From there, remove the screws holding front panel on, lower panel below door clips in place. Heating element will be under drum.

Hope this helps. I have the heating element you need in my shop, in case you need an excuse to visit maui-so convienient


Post# 52095 , Reply# 2   12/31/2004 at 10:29 (7,048 days old) by fixerman ()        

First check the vent tube and vent hood for cloging or other obstruction. If you have the flexible vent tube, make sure it doesn't have kinks or tight bends. It should be as straight and short as possible. The later models have a thermal fuse that shuts the heat off if there is an overheating situation so check that first. You can jump a wire between the termiinals to check the fuse or use an ohm meter. It should be normally closed. If that doesn't cure the problem check the element with a volt meter or ohm meter. The parts aren't difficult to replace, but you shold know what part to replace first. Guessing at what parts you need can get expensive and time consuming, so diagnose first. If you don't have experience with repairs have someone check it for you. Would need to know the model no to find the cost of the part. Go the Sears web site and type in the model no to get a part number and price on the parts you need.

Washer may have a bad transmission. Maybe another member can answer this better than me.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO fixerman's LINK


Post# 52103 , Reply# 3   12/31/2004 at 12:28 (7,048 days old) by maytagbear (N.E. Ohio)        
'92s ?

Only if you really want to.

I am not particulary mechanical, but you seemed to enjoy working on your Magnavox.

However, I would be over at Home Despot and scoping out the Bosch Nexxt's.


Incidentally-- Happy New Year to all. PEACE, health, prosperity, and the avoidance of Suds Lock!


Lawrence/Maytagbear




Post# 52114 , Reply# 4   12/31/2004 at 14:05 (7,048 days old) by partscounterman (Cortez, Colorado)        
I disagree! (sorry Lawrence)

The old Kenmore and Whirlpool dryers that have the filter in the top of the machine are "cast-iron" in my book. Fix 'er up and you'll get another 12 years easy. I would not replace one of these-just fix it

I'm not as bowled over with the 27" dryers with the filter in the front (Kenmore Elite type). These seem to always have bum motors. A repair here would depend on how the motor is running.

The deal with the washer doesn't sound good, but I cannot say without seeing it. There, a replacement may be in order.

I just took in a 12 year old Kenmore set for consignment. I almost cried when I saw them because they looked like showroom condition! If you all were here, an old laundry machine with no visible rust would bring tears to your eyes too!


Post# 52173 , Reply# 5   1/1/2005 at 07:23 (7,048 days old) by Goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture
Once I changed the drive coupler on a newer DD Kenmore,to test the washer. Only one I had laying around was an old style one.

It worked,but knocked like crazy,til I got the right one installed.Maybe a problem in the coupler?

kennyGF


Post# 52184 , Reply# 6   1/1/2005 at 11:41 (7,047 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Our 2002 Kenmore Elite dryer (replaced a '96 GE that had bad drum supports; drum literally rode through the door) has dried about 14 loads per week since it was new, and so far it's doing great. The one thing I like most about this dryer is CAPACITY. The drum is HUGE, will easily take a queen-size comforter, and I could dry 2 "double loads" at one time in under 2 hours with no signs of the motor straining. I try to keep it lint-free by periodically checking and cleaning the exhaust; that takes a lot off of the drying time.

Being only 3 years old, it's still too new for any problems to pop up...I'll keep everyone informed in the "long run".


Post# 52270 , Reply# 7   1/2/2005 at 19:36 (7,046 days old) by jaxsunst ()        
Update

I took out the thermo fuse and took it over to my father in law's house and he tested it with a ohm meter and it was bad. A new one $9.99 and the Sear's service center is on my way to work. I'll let you know if that fixes it. Thanks for pointing me to that.

Post# 52272 , Reply# 8   1/2/2005 at 19:55 (7,046 days old) by fixerman ()        

If it turns out to be the problem, remember that the thermal fuse blew because of an overheating problem most likely caused by an obstruction in the vent or inside the dryer ducting. It also can be caused by a thermo disc not shuting off the heat at the correct temp, though I find this is rare.

Post# 52273 , Reply# 9   1/2/2005 at 20:14 (7,046 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)        

The thermal fuse is there in case the operating thermo does not cycle the heat at the right temp. I would remove the operating thermo (right below the thermal fuse) and clean out any lint that might have accumulated around it. If it is clean I would change the operating thermo also. Try to avoid stopping the dryer during a heat up cycle, such as opening the door to remove a few items; sometimes that will trip the thermal fuse before the operating thermo opens. Hope this helps.

Post# 52863 , Reply# 10   1/8/2005 at 14:24 (7,040 days old) by jaxsunst ()        
Update:

Sears had to order the thermo fuse, and it comes packaged with a thermostat. They told me it is a regular stock item but they were sold out (of course). It is being shipped to me free of charge, but is not here yet. Ordered it Monday, GRRRRRRRR!

I'm off to my in-laws to use their extreme bottom of the line mid 70's Kenmore. I call it the wrinkle machine. I'll probably spend the rest of the weekend ironin.


Post# 52987 , Reply# 11   1/10/2005 at 13:31 (7,038 days old) by partscounterman (Cortez, Colorado)        
Too bad you're not here!

Appliance Garage has that thermal fuse kit IN STOCK!

Post# 52988 , Reply# 12   1/10/2005 at 14:25 (7,038 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

Can you do a road trip from Tennessee to Maui?

Post# 52989 , Reply# 13   1/10/2005 at 14:27 (7,038 days old) by partscounterman (Cortez, Colorado)        

If I could flap my arms and fly!


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