Thread Number: 87660
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Kenmore belt drive issues |
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Post# 1122251 , Reply# 1   7/3/2021 at 18:32 (1,027 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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Post# 1122256 , Reply# 3   7/3/2021 at 19:24 (1,027 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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Post# 1122257 , Reply# 4   7/3/2021 at 19:46 (1,027 days old) by Syber_Collie (Utah, USA)   |   | |
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How so then? I’ve only ever done it through machines with the suds return |
Post# 1122261 , Reply# 6   7/3/2021 at 20:28 (1,027 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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To me the simplest way is to use a spare pressure switch tubing. With the washer unplugged remove the back panel on the console. Remove the tubing connected to the switch. Connect the spare to the switch. Plug the washer in and set to fill. Slightly blow a steady pressure into the tube. When the switch clicks the machine should start agitating. Unplug after this test and don’t forget to reconnect the tubing from the washer after removing the spare.
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Post# 1122265 , Reply# 7   7/3/2021 at 20:42 (1,027 days old) by Syber_Collie (Utah, USA)   |   | |
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I will have to check that, I also owned an electronic dd and it did have the paper for diagnostics in the console. |
Post# 1122271 , Reply# 8   7/3/2021 at 21:28 (1,027 days old) by Syber_Collie (Utah, USA)   |   | |
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Will have to try the tube method, hopefully there is some form of diagnostics though |
Post# 1122462 , Reply# 9   7/5/2021 at 22:18 (1,025 days old) by Syber_Collie (Utah, USA)   |   | |
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Got the machine to agitate, seems like the tube and agitator shaft are kind of stuck together. Any thoughts? CLICK HERE TO GO TO Syber_Collie's LINK |
Post# 1122503 , Reply# 10   7/6/2021 at 11:34 (1,024 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 1122505 , Reply# 11   7/6/2021 at 11:43 (1,024 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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This may or may not be a problem, hook up the washer to water and run at least a dozen loads through it and see if there are any other issues before you start tearing the washer apart because there may be other issues and you probably only want to tear it apart once.
I have this same pair in black in my 2nd home.
John L. |
Post# 1123087 , Reply# 14   7/12/2021 at 14:40 (1,018 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 1123124 , Reply# 15   7/12/2021 at 21:56 (1,018 days old) by Syber_Collie (Utah, USA)   |   | |
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I’ve discovered more of these oddball symptoms in this video. Honestly kinda baffling me at this point. CLICK HERE TO GO TO Syber_Collie's LINK |
Post# 1123128 , Reply# 16   7/12/2021 at 22:44 (1,018 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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Post# 1123135 , Reply# 17   7/13/2021 at 00:18 (1,018 days old) by Syber_Collie (Utah, USA)   |   | |
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I’m tempted to try to grease the shaft first and see how that goes as finding a clutch at the moment is fairly hard. What’s the best grease to use for these shafts? |
Post# 1123137 , Reply# 18   7/13/2021 at 01:25 (1,018 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Zoom Spout Oil...
View Full Size
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Post# 1123156 , Reply# 19   7/13/2021 at 12:47 (1,017 days old) by Syber_Collie (Utah, USA)   |   | |
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Thanks! I’ll most likely be working on it next week so I’ll keep yalls updated once I get to that point |
Post# 1123165 , Reply# 21   7/13/2021 at 14:58 (1,017 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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the color really has nothing to do with the inner workings...
outside of the Digital Console, and added dispensers.....you have a standard belt drive 'wigwag' base unit.... one no different than the other...all FSP/Whirlpool/Kenmore design that ran for upwards of 30+ years... many times we have taken a top unit, and switched it over to another base unit...all parts aligned right up that was sort of a nice thing back then, no matter what model/style/options/colors....you got a standard heavy duty base unit inner workings equal across the board...whether it was BOL or TOL |
Post# 1123179 , Reply# 24   7/13/2021 at 18:08 (1,017 days old) by Syber_Collie (Utah, USA)   |   | |
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Rechecked my diagram and they are the spin clutch washers. Placed them back and the machine works as it did before. Unless I missed something that transmission assembly is really stuck in there. On the bright side I got to clean it up a bit more :p |
Post# 1123182 , Reply# 25   7/13/2021 at 18:15 (1,017 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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Post# 1123186 , Reply# 27   7/13/2021 at 19:12 (1,017 days old) by Syber_Collie (Utah, USA)   |   | |
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So here is it spinning after I messed with it, thought this might be important to show CLICK HERE TO GO TO Syber_Collie's LINK |
Post# 1123620 , Reply# 28   7/19/2021 at 07:04 (1,011 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)   |   | |
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I was wondering if anyone knew of the transition at Whirlpool from the belt drive washers to the direct drive. I guess John would know. I know the DD came out first in 1981 for the narrow machines but were Kenmores the first version? The DD was phased in gradually and I kind of wonder why. I do know that the Limited Edition was about the last of the belt drives, mom and I looked at it but $1500 was too much for the pair. We ended up with one in almond maybe about the 80 series. The saleslady said the LE had a steel tub and the other a polypropylene tub. Were the DD lower priced machines. I think I read on here that toward the end of BD production, Whirlpool stockpiled some of the last BD machines in case people were not happy with the DD units. Any truth to that?
Oh and Darth Vader needs his washer back when you're done with it, he would like the dryer too. |
Post# 1123624 , Reply# 29   7/19/2021 at 07:29 (1,011 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Both WP and KM had a DD machine in the end of 1981,
Some of the many reasons that the change was made of course was cost of manufacturing, the DD machine has 60 less parts and is about 70 pounds lighter.
The DD machines from the very start were more reliable, they had almost 1/2 the warranty call rate in the first year alone.
The DD machines were far easier to do major repairs on, this was a big challenge for the laundry industry to be able to have washers that could still have major repairs done in the customers home at an affordable cost to keep manufactures from having to replace machines completely or lose their shirt if it needed repair.
The DD washers quickly became the only TL washer that was easy to replace ANY part on in less that 1/2 hour in the home, it was estimated by WP that after 10 years of DD washers being in the field that several thousand less repair technicians would be needed nationwide.
Overall the DD washers were a huge success with well over 100 million being produced over their 36 year run 1981-2017, but it was time to move on. [ I think I am safe in saying that the DD machines were the most produced TL automatics ever even far surpassing MT Helical Drive machines produced 1956-2006 .
The design of the DD machines did not lend itself to the faster spin speeds needed or much lower water and electricity use that is needed if the world is to have any chance of survival to the year 2200, the savings in water and energy in the last decade alone have been enormous and necessary.
John L. |
Post# 1123705 , Reply# 31   7/19/2021 at 22:40 (1,011 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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One thing I do is make sure the gearcase is shifted into agitate mode by manually moving the cam bar. This helps because it allows the agitator shaft to move with the gearcase while you are moving it side to side while pulling down. If it’s not wanting to be removed easily chances of water seepage down the spin tube and possibly the bearings is likely. With the wash basket and drive block removed the basket drive assembly should also be easy to remove unless there is rust/bearing issues due to water being where it shouldn’t.
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Post# 1123707 , Reply# 32   7/19/2021 at 23:51 (1,011 days old) by MaytagNeptune (FireAlarmTechGuy4444 on YouTube. Interlochen MI)   |   | |
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