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Thread Number: 88469
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
GE filter flo washer tripping Breaker when filling |
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Post# 1130270 , Reply# 3 10/3/2021 at 16:42 (935 days old) by akronman  (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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this may be cheating
My entire basement was all GFCI outlets on 4 circuits running 4 washers and 2 gas dryers. All was well except 2 Filter Flo's, a 1977 and a 1979, both would occasionally trip the GFCI the instant it started to fill for rinse, the exact same spot on 2 different machines, less than 1/4 of the time. No tripping on any other cycle, just Rinse on Regular. Finally, I undid the GFCI for one outlet and made it regular grounding only, I use it for only the GE's, and all has worked well for years. Each machine is also grounded to a cold water copper pipe, and no problems since. I am a good home electrician, not a certified pro, and I think some of our older machines were built before GFCI was mandated for kitchen-bath-laundry?
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Post# 1130285 , Reply# 4 10/3/2021 at 20:16 (935 days old) by Adam-aussie-vac (Canberra ACT) |
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Maybe, but I’m honestly kind of weirded by it , Plus I actually want to fix the issue Because no matter which circuit I would’ve put it on that would’ve have And RCD on it as mum upgraded the fuse board quite recently so each and every circuit has an RCD on it | ||
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Post# 1130292 , Reply# 6 10/3/2021 at 22:22 (935 days old) by Adam-aussie-vac (Canberra ACT) |
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Alright when I get home I’ll try that, A. Would adding an rcd downstream of the first rcd be legal? 2. Would it be a good idea to insulate the solenoid terminals? •. What would cause the breaker to trip when turning a switch off? | ||
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Post# 1130296 , Reply# 8 10/3/2021 at 22:56 (934 days old) by Adam-aussie-vac (Canberra ACT) |
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Here’s what I’ve done so far I tried taking the four screws out of the control panel but that did not help, I did find there were two clips underneath the top panel, I push those clips in and left it at the panel and this is as far as I’ve gotten The two clips will be circled in red | ||
| Post# 1130316 , Reply# 9 10/4/2021 at 08:36 (934 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia) | ||
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OH, OK, the solenoid valve isn't behind the control panel,so no need to go in there. Is there an access panel to get into the back of the machine? A photo of the whole back of the machine would be helpful. So would a model number. | ||
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Post# 1130325 , Reply# 10 10/4/2021 at 09:49 (934 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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if the solenoid is getting wet, that would be a concern as to how.....
in pic #1, the back of the top, is that a shadow or rust formation, its possible this is not making a tight seal and water flowing over top onto the valve... in any case, I would just replace the whole valve and be safe..... pull the machine out, the location where the hot and cold hoses connect on the machine, that is the valve!.... as far as I can remember for a GE FilterFLo with a perforated tub, the top corner location area of the valve has never changed in all of its production years... most times you dont have to remove the whole back fiber board, just two screws that hold the valve plate in place, should be enough give from the hoses and wiring to service and replace.... disclaimer....probably best to unplug and turn off the water taps.... and/or call in a tech to replace it for you....
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Post# 1130419 , Reply# 13 10/5/2021 at 04:58 (933 days old) by Adam-aussie-vac (Canberra ACT) |
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The filter flow hose is on the right top corner of the tub, And feel if the solenoids are getting moist or damp, I thought it was because the insolation was getting old So I don’t think that’s causing any issues, but I will drag it out of that spot and look behind it | ||
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