Thread Number: 90028  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag pitman transmission agitator shaft play
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Post# 1146167   4/10/2022 at 00:46 (747 days old) by Smartdrive1100 (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)        

smartdrive1100's profile picture
Hi everyone,

The transmission in the Maytag a23cm seems to need a rebuild (already knew that) it needs a new seal (o ring) to stop the oil from leaking all on to the pulley.

But I noticed how much the agitator shaft moved and was wondering if anyone had any idea how to fix or if anyone was selling the top part of the transmission (no gears, just the agitator shaft and the top cover) for a reasonable price.

I really like the way the machine operates because it acts like a a900-06, put the knob on the cycle and boom automatically selects the temperature and starts without having to touch a timer and water temperature button.


The tub has a hole in it (about 1 1/2 centimetres big), any way to fix that?


The machine needs a lot of work but I think I can fix it, just will take time.

I have some photos of the machine (and possibly the amazing Maytag lat9800)


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 16         View Full Size



Post# 1146168 , Reply# 1   4/10/2022 at 06:26 (747 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Hole In Wash Basket

combo52's profile picture

Just sand and smooth edges and use some epoxy paint to stop further rust, this hole will not hurt a thing.

 

I have threatened many times to build the ultimate DC Maytag washer, and one of the things I would do is drill out all the basket holes and make then twice as large so the machine would get rid of lint and sediment better.

 

WP BD washers had much larger holes than MT, MT used the smaller holes to reduce the chance of pins and other foreign items from getting stuck in the pump, on WP BD washers they had a pin-trap to protect the water pump from foreign objects.

 

As far as a transmission goes you will probably have to part out another machine for one.

 

It is a shame you are not in the states, two weeks ago the appliance shop behind us had two beautiful center dial Mts and three 80s and one 90s DC Mts all got scrapped.

 

Every day two truck loads are hulled out for recycling.

 

John L.


Post# 1146175 , Reply# 2   4/10/2022 at 07:42 (747 days old) by Smartdrive1100 (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)        
Lucky!

smartdrive1100's profile picture
Thanks for the information.


I’d love to have a center dial Mt, but this is the closest thing to one, sorta, as I said it operates just like a900-06 apart from not having an adjustable water level.


As for the hole, I could use some plummers putty/JB weld type thing (mix two things together and wait a few hours and then it’s rock solid) and then sand and then paint it.

Someone has these exact machines (I think) and is selling parts but they are 5 hours away from me so it’s not worth it, sadly.

I am going to pull apart the transmission (amazingly it still operates) just need to fabricate a tub nut tool in the next few days. I’d say the transmission is going to be filled with water, the washer mounting stem was extremely corroded and some parts just broke off, the seal on it was completely mangled allowing for lots of water to get in contact where it shouldn’t…

In that case, what oil should I use? Could ask my uncle for some car transmission oil or diff oil.


I can’t forget the broken transmission seal/O-ring! where can I buy one?




Post# 1146177 , Reply# 3   4/10/2022 at 08:06 (747 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

Hi Smartdrive1100

Epoxy repair - I use Selleys Knead-It Aqua - Selleys have a range of 2-part epoxy putties for similar repairs, if it will regularly be below water, they say to use the "aqua" version.

 

Since typing the above, I have now looked at your photos and I agree the hole is small and probably won't be a problem. It looks like a neat round hole - do you know what happened? The marks look like burn marks, it's quite odd. I'd be tempted to use a paste cleaner like Gumption to clean around the hole, much of that brown mark should clean off. Depending on the size of the hole and if it really is as neat and round as it looks in the photo - I'd clean it up, paint it with a good paint like Rustoleum, when the paint is dry fit a plastic chair tip into the hole. Bunnings have a reasonable selection of chair tips in packs of 4, Clark Rubber have a better selection and sell them singly, I'd guess it would be under $1. Smallest they have fits 9 mm hole.

www.clarkrubber.com.au/co...

O-ring - go to any bearing supplier with the old o-ring or the remains of it, they will measure it and give you an equivalent. Not all of them are very helpful with these small items, but most are. If you email me your suburb, I might be able to recommend a place or two.


Post# 1146182 , Reply# 4   4/10/2022 at 08:59 (747 days old) by Smartdrive1100 (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)        
Thanks gizmo!

smartdrive1100's profile picture
I’m just worried that something small will go out far enough that it touches the outer tub on spin, I will see what I can do.


As for the O-ring I’ve heard people say you need to be careful when putting the shaft back it as it can damage the O-ring, is there a special way to do it?


Post# 1146235 , Reply# 5   4/10/2022 at 20:20 (746 days old) by Smartdrive1100 (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)        

smartdrive1100's profile picture
I have no clue how it happened as I just bought the machine thinking it would only need a little work, how wrong was I.


Here is the machines agitator shaft:


  View Full Size
Post# 1146236 , Reply# 6   4/10/2022 at 20:25 (746 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture

Agitator shaft looks pretty good. 

 

What kind of play does the agitator shaft have, vertical or horizontal?


Post# 1146243 , Reply# 7   4/10/2022 at 21:05 (746 days old) by Smartdrive1100 (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)        

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It has horizontal play, find that a bit odd as I’d assume those bearings wouldn’t go bad.

Post# 1146248 , Reply# 8   4/10/2022 at 21:48 (746 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture

They are bronze sleeve bearings that probably saw thousands of severely stuffed, overloaded cycles being a coinop commercial machine. They did their job.


Post# 1146255 , Reply# 9   4/10/2022 at 22:53 (746 days old) by Smartdrive1100 (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)        

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Thousands is an understatement, lol.



Maybe I could rebuild the transmission and not need another parts transmission. Can I buy the sleeve bearings anywhere? If not I would like some dimensions as I could make my own.




Post# 1146267 , Reply# 10   4/11/2022 at 08:25 (746 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

Bronze bushes AKA sleeve bearings are available at any bearing supplier - CBC, SKF, Bearing Service, Southern Bearings to name a few. Take the old bearing, they will measure it with a micrometer/caliper, check inner diameter (ID) outer diameter (OD) and length. If it has a flanged end, they measure that too. A lot of this stuff is generic, it doesn't have to come from the appliance manufacturer.

universalbearings.com.au/spheric...

 

be aware there are (at least) two main types of these bearings - solid bronze, and sintered bronze. Solid bronze bushes are machined from l piece of bronze, sintered bearings are made from "crumbs" of bronze pressed together under great force to form the bearing. Sintered bearings are more porous and can be soaked in a lubricant before installing, or are sometimes made with a lubricant in the mixture (called self-lubricating or shorelube bearings.) Washing machines can use either, you need to look at the original bearing - if it has a slight "texture" it is probably sintered. The worn parts lose the texture. Solid bronze bushes can be machined down to fit if the size you need isn't available off the shelf. I've had that done in the past, it isn't expensive, the bearing supplier can sometimes advise you of a workshop nearby that could do the job. This might be a dying art in the big cities but it is still easy to find in country towns and regional cities. Geelong and Ballarat would be good places if you can't find someone in Melbourne. My favourite bearing suppliers are Rob Hamilton bearings and Des Munday, both in Geelong. Ballarat Bearing Supplies are good too.


Post# 1146339 , Reply# 11   4/12/2022 at 05:44 (745 days old) by Smartdrive1100 (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)        

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Thanks gizmo!

I’ll give it a shot. Do the bearings pop out or will I have to carefully drill the bearings out?


Post# 1146346 , Reply# 12   4/12/2022 at 08:45 (745 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

I've never been inside one of these washers.

I imagine it is a similar job to doing the same on a Simpson or Hoover of the same era.

It would be helpful if an American experienced in these Maytags could advise you.


Post# 1146351 , Reply# 13   4/12/2022 at 09:53 (745 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture

First thing you need is a new shaft, the bearings are the easier part.

 

 


Post# 1146425 , Reply# 14   4/13/2022 at 04:24 (744 days old) by Smartdrive1100 (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)        

smartdrive1100's profile picture
That’s another hurdle, if I need a new shaft, I’ll need a new transmission, unless I could make one or recondition this one somehow.


I will probably need to remove the agitator shaft to see if it’s truly bad or just has some rust on the top.


I’m writing this on my phone as I am currently away, sorry if it seems a bit rushed!


Post# 1146665 , Reply# 15   4/16/2022 at 03:53 (741 days old) by Smartdrive1100 (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)        
I’m back!

smartdrive1100's profile picture
I’ll make the tool tomorrow and then rip apart the transmission.

Will I need a new transmission seal, My guess is yes?


I’ll also further pull apart the whole machine to give it a better clean.






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