my neighbor brought over a washer he had that had a lid lock issue! well i put in a new lid lock switch and the same issue. so after doing tons of tests using the tech manual i came to the conclusion that the control board was bad.
on to the next step. i got a what was told to me a known good control board w102535361 and put that in and i was able to run manual tests and automatic tests and calibrate the new board.
well in the manual mode tests the agitator would spin one way only both low and high. in the auto mode it started to spin both ways but soon went to cw direction only. so in trying to troubleshoot the shift solenoid i back probed the j2 1 and 2 wires and managed to have one of the jumper wires short to the frame and the control board led went out.
so being i now have 2 boards that won't work i started checking the old board and found a bad cap. i took a cap from the board i messed up and got the old board to now work and go into auto mode calibrate and manual modes plus clear the f3 e2 fault over and over.
now on to the issue. with the board that i repaired now in the machine i can get it to run the auto mode cycle from start to finish but it is faster than the manual says each item should take. i figure those times are suggested times.
but in manual mode i can get to drain and it will not do any more tests. no agitate no spin. but remember in the service auto mode it will lid lock run the fill valves the drain valve shifter and agitate and spin then unlock and go into standby mode. and i always get the f3 e2 temp fault. i do not have water hooked up yet.
now the new board did alow all the manual tests and the auto tests but it did not agitate cw ccw only cw so it may have had a bad scr. but i will never know because now it has no led.
so is this normal to not run some manual modes when it does run them in auto mode?