DI-56 Frigidaire Filtrator drier, built late 1955

According to my copy of Frigidaire "Tech Talk" condensed service guide covering dryers made from 1952 through 1960 there were two models of DI-56 dryers.

Imperial dryers DI-56 and DI-57 had Radientube Heating Units at 4400 at 115/230 volts

Imperial dryers DI-2 56 and DI-2 57 had wattage 1550 wattage at 115 volts.

There are other electrical wire diagrams besides what you've got on back of dryer.

Here is what manual says about wiring as viewed from rear of dryer.

Off terminal block you have three connections:

From left to right "B, W, R"

Manual states for 115 volt service to use only "B" and "W" connections only.

"Connections for 115 volt 2-wire use package 5876626"

"Note"

" Connect Yellow Wire To Neutral White Terminal for 115 Volt Service Only".

" For 115/230 Volte Service Make Sure That Yellow Wire Is Properly Insulated From Terminal Block Posts and Metal Frame Parts."

Leafing though manual it appears all Frigidaire condenser dryers well into early 1960's models offer 115v or 120v connections along with standard 115v (120v)/230.

Manual does state by 1958 change was made to heating elements rating for all models. Furthermore on "Deluxe" and "Imperial" models further protections were made on both sides of electrical supply to eliminate the possibility of the heater elements remaining energized with 120 volts should the heater short to ground.

So there you have it, your dryer appears able to run on 120v, and providing you have proper skills (which you do), and wiring can handle load, have at it.

IIRC these condenser dryers weren't exactly fast even at full power. Cutting things down to around 1100 watts means things will take longer to dry. You can speed things along by using highest final spin speed your washer (or washers) provide.

Personally have been there and done that, the excitement of getting a new "toy" hooked up to see what there is....


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Post# 1146947 4/19/2022 at 20:35 (738 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)
Checkrate/Likes The thread on buying this is in the Super forum, and it was plugged in and running when I bought it. It's now going to wait a while in my garage until I get it to the basement, and I'm wondering if I can temporarily rewire the terminal block for 120 volts? Diagram from the back of my drier is pictured here, and the link goes to the Super purchase thread on it.. CLICK HERE TO GO TO akronman's LINK View Full Size

Post# 1146948 , Reply# 1 4/19/2022 at 20:47 (738 days old) by quincyman (Oldsmar, FL)
Checkrate/Likes *Leave it alone.* I'd want it kept in it's original condition. My opinion

Post# 1146964 , Reply# 2 4/19/2022 at 23:58 (737 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There�s a Lady on Stage)
Checkrate/Likes 1 According to my copy of Frigidaire "Tech Talk" condensed service guide covering dryers made from 1952 through 1960 there were two models of DI-56 dryers. Imperial dryers DI-56 and DI-57 had Radientube Heating Units at 4400 at 115/230 volts Imperial dryers DI-2 56 and DI-2 57 had wattage 1550 wattage at 115 volts. There are other electrical wire diagrams besides what you've got on back of dryer. Here is what manual says about wiring as viewed from rear of dryer. Off terminal block you have three connections: From left to right "B, W, R" Manual states for 115 volt service to use only "B" and "W" connections only. "Connections for 115 volt 2-wire use package 5876626" "Note" " Connect Yellow Wire To Neutral White Terminal for 115 Volt Service Only". " For 115/230 Volte Service Make Sure That Yellow Wire Is Properly Insulated From Terminal Block Posts and Metal Frame Parts." Leafing though manual it appears all Frigidaire condenser dryers well into early 1960's models offer 115v or 120v connections along with standard 115v (120v)/230. Manual does state by 1958 change was made to heating elements rating for all models. Furthermore on "Deluxe" and "Imperial" models further protections were made on both sides of electrical supply to eliminate the possibility of the heater elements remaining energized with 120 volts should the heater short to ground. So there you have it, your dryer appears able to run on 120v, and providing you have proper skills (which you do), and wiring can handle load, have at it. IIRC these condenser dryers weren't exactly fast even at full power. Cutting things down to around 1100 watts means things will take longer to dry. You can speed things along by using highest final spin speed your washer (or washers) provide. Personally have been there and done that, the excitement of getting a new "toy" hooked up to see what there is....

Post# 1146968 , Reply# 3 4/20/2022 at 00:26 (737 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There�s a Lady on Stage)
Checkrate/Likes *"Original Condition.."* Early makers of clothes dryers wanted maximum market penetration as possible. As not every home or apartment had 120v/230v service and convincing His Nibbs to spring for such electrical upgrade on top of new appliance may have been a deal breaker. As such Frigidaire and some others (Maytag?) offered full sized dryers that ran on 120v power. Not best option in terms of performance, but sometimes you do what must be done...

Post# 1146970 , Reply# 4 4/20/2022 at 01:01 (737 days old) by appnut (TX)
Checkrate/Likes Westinghouse also allowed ability to change the wiring so that it was 120v. I'm not sure this is a valid assumption, but I think most electric dryers in the 1940s & 1950s had a way of changing the wiring to work with a standard 120v plug.

Post# 1147022 , Reply# 5 4/20/2022 at 22:08 (737 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There�s a Lady on Stage)
Checkrate/Likes " Connect Yellow Wire To Neutral White Terminal for 115 Volt Service Only". Isn't this "ground to neutral" something modern code frowns upon? Modern electric ranges, stoves, ovens, dryers, and other appliances pulling heavy amounts of power went over to four wire connections for that reason.

Post# 1147045 , Reply# 6 4/21/2022 at 04:45 (736 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)
Checkrate/Likes 2 *Thanks* I appreciate the info, but I think I will wait until it's in the basement with 120/240 to do anything. Better safe than sorry.