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Thread Number: 90382
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Kenmore DD Neutral drain issue |
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Post# 1149427 , Reply# 1 5/24/2022 at 15:11 (1,036 days old) by DADoES  (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Post# 1149432 , Reply# 4 5/24/2022 at 16:10 (1,036 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Your neutral drain technically is already failed since it's not working consistently. Improper function of the centrifugal softener dispenser is perhaps the main problem it causes. "S" Heat presumably is a reference to Kenmore's Soft Heat feature. It (originally as designed) reduces the heat input level and/or reduces the drum air temperature for more gentle treatment as the load progresses toward dryness. A 1990s model dryer may function in a different (simplified) way regards to that feature. The timer markings probably are just a design variation for different market areas. The red H symbol is not clear in the photos. Large images as are produced by phones nowadays are shrunk to a maximum of 900px on the longest dimension when uploaded into a post and may be displayed smaller, which often makes them grainy and pixelated. | ||
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Post# 1149448 , Reply# 5 5/24/2022 at 17:55 (1,036 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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Soft Heat on your dryer means the last 5 minutes before the cool down, the heat is reduced to low/delicate.
I found a solution that worked in my situation when the neutral drain began to fail on my 1986 DD Kenmore. I'd do a load of wash that had a high spin speed. I'd start the next load immediately after the first load finished using a gentle agitation and the neutral drain worked properly. Another approach I would take is take the machine through the 2 minute drain(which was actually spinning) and the following 6 minute spin on the normal cycle. Then immediately begin my delicate cycle after putting the laundry load in there. It seemed to warm up the transmission and allowed the neutral drain to work properly also. It's worth a try. | ||
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Post# 1149499 , Reply# 7 5/25/2022 at 10:26 (1,035 days old) by philcobendixduo (San Jose) |
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Neutral drain.....
.....on my 1987 Kenmore seems to not work when there is a light load in the tub.
Washing towels, jeans, sweatshirts and the the like - neutral drain works fine. Washing thin, light fabrics or small load - neutral drain likely to not work. On the "spin only" cycle, the neutral drain never works since there is no water in the tub to "weight" it. The first action in the "spin only" cycle is to drain the tub but spinning starts right away instead. I can live with it the way it is now. Machine has been in service since 1987 with no repairs. I will say that when the machine "spin drains", it dislodges a LOT of lint from somewhere and deposits it on the clothes and the wash basket making a huge mess! | ||
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Post# 1149506 , Reply# 8 5/25/2022 at 11:56 (1,035 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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| Post# 1149511 , Reply# 9 5/25/2022 at 12:56 (1,035 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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| Post# 1149540 , Reply# 11 5/25/2022 at 18:32 (1,035 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
As much as the direct drives are a favorite of mine, seems like a lot of them are having chronic issues with the neutral drain failing and since Whirlpool made the neutral drain kit NLA, I don’t see many being left in the future other than collectors/enthusiasts/ or anyone who takes really good care of their appliances.
The neutral drain never fails on the belt drive washers (older belt drive washers) since everything for the neutral drain is external and it’d be obvious if it weren’t working since the tub would be spinning while agitating. | ||
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Post# 1149549 , Reply# 12 5/25/2022 at 20:18 (1,035 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Neutral Drain Kit P/N 388253A is not NLA at this time. Among other sources ... PartsDr AppliancePartsPros RepairClinic PartSelect VirginiaServiceSupply GenuineApplianceParts ApplianceParts365 Encompass WhirlpoolParts | ||
| Post# 1149596 , Reply# 14 5/26/2022 at 15:27 (1,034 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
As someone who has repaired and sold many many direct drive whirlpool built machines over the last 30 years I have only replaced a few neutral drain assemblies. The gearcase has always been reasonable in price and it’s just too easy to change the whole thing. I can have the job done in 30 minutes with no mess. That being said the new gearcases simply aren’t built like they used to be due to worn out machinery that casts them.
I’ll still install new ones with the lesser quality before I’ll change the neutral drain assembly. The time factor just doesn’t work out for me to do so. Most of the so called rebuilders that are left simply install a new clutch and let them spin drain because it’s just so easy and quick to do and they don’t replace the spin tube seal when doing so but I do. | ||
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