That's odd you bringing it up about somebody getting there arm ripped off by a washer, I have a friend who had that very thing happen to him.I don't know what he was thinking he tried to slow it down spinning and a wet towel wrapped around his arm and ripped it off at the shoulder. It ripped off his arm so fast he didn't realize what happened until it was to late. They could not reattach it this was in the 80s.

That's the strange thing though,I did not feel much pain at all  either until I woke up from surgery and my leg was gone.Worse pain in my life ,baseball bat to the shin is what it felt like.

This is done to reduce wrinkling if clothing was washed in hot or warm water and to reduce foam from backing up out of the drain standpipe in some homes.

This really does not make any real performance difference, you are only talking about leaving about one cup more water in a load going into the rinse cycle.

The machine is still spinning faster than a WP belt drive ever spun in this first spin.

It is funny the things us washer guys worry about but we have never had any complainant about this from a customer and in fact one of the comments I get about the TC-5s from customers is how well rinsed the clothes seem.

All that said and even though I have been involved in the sale and servicing of well over a thousand of these washers I would not have one in my home or ANY NEW TL Washer built today.

If I can't have a vintage TL washer with a Suds-Saver A modern FL machine just does so much better job.

John L.

I plan to buy a new vehicle before they force electric cars on us. I would feel different if it would just convert to gasoline only after the battery was depleted. My experience with rechargeable battery stuff has not been good.

Try a better detergent like Tide Etc, Arm & Hammer is one of the worst detergents either powered or liquid.

John L.

There is no plastic in pods and they can not possibly clog the drain pump etc.

However if you place a pod between pieces of damp laundry as the pod partly dissolves they can cause clothing to get sort of glued together so you need to be mindful of how you use them.

John L.

Suds-locking standpipes are rather common with older designed Speed Queen washers. Cruise around Google/YouTube and you'll find many complaints.

I find that my standpipe suds a bit only when I used way to much detergent. With the right amount its never an issue for me. Perhaps people are using way to much detergent or the plumbing is not up to code?

Sadly, there is the real world. Its easier to have the washer drain slow than to tell the customer they're using to much detergent or need to spend thousands on a plumber, especially when their previous washer didn't exhibit standpipe foaming. 

Very bad idea. The water washes up and away during spin drain preventing crud, scum and lint from redepositing around the outer tub, inner tub and agitator. Every washer that I've used with neutral drain develops scum rings around the agi and washtub. Things being left behind on fabric was more prevalent. Clothes also end up being clumped at the bottom wrinkled instead of being spread out across the wash-basket wall at the end of the cycle. You need a reasonably fast spin during draining which accelerates relative to the amount of water still being pumped out.

The pump out rate itself would have to be reduced, which is what a low speed spin is trying to accomplish. This is wear switching to high should come into play after the low speed spin-drain.

Speed Queen motors are rated 1/2HP, and have a centrifugal controlled start winding with a capacitor in series which provides a fast, powerful "kick" upon start up. Pump out rate is excellent, I even removed the molded reducing orifice at the end of drain hose when I installed my Speed Queen washer in late 2013. 

I think all top load washers should have at least a 1/2 HP drain pump, and ideally a 3/4 HP drive motor- minimum. A separate drain pump is a reliability issue in part due to their lack of torque. My top load 1997 GE washers had the 180 watt Italian pump, and I remember after two years the pump started to do this thing where it would slow down during drain. You could hear it. (I'm guessing threads wrapped around the impeller shaft did this based on pumps I took out at an apartment scrap pile.) The tub would start to spin while still full of water, the pressure switch would trip, re-start spin, over and over. You think that with the presence of a clutch on the motor shaft there wouldn't be a need to run the spin circuit through the pressure switch, but apparently if you hold the water level knob interim keeping the switch in fill mode the spin would cause water to come out the over-flow pipe. Funny that did not happen with the filter flos... Put a shield above the motor, ditch the overflow pipe, bring down the water/suds drag honey combs on the inner tub, attach the drain pump directly to the drive motor, beef up the clutch a bit, Goodyear belt and then maybe the Model Ts would resemble an attempt at a clothes washer. 

The Models had one redeeming quality (if I can allow myself to say such a thing) in that if you turned off the drain pump while in spin the machine was very quiet. A pump attached to the main motor would have preserved most of that tranquility. But the drain pump was so noisy gargling while vibrating the base pan it undid everything making the washer the loudest appliance in the house.  

Bigger transmission, long stroke agitation. A third port on the pump going back up via hose to a flume in the tub cover.

The one major draw back regarding the filter flos was the amount of water between the inner and outer tubs. In theory the could have combined the two into one suspended unit, then hung it from 4 rods like the model Ts. Porcelain on steel outer tub, stainless steal or porcelain speckled inner tub.

I still don't like the hanging concept all that much, perhaps a milk stool suspension like Speed Queen. Or a 4 point corner design I once theorized. The Filter Flo could have been re-designed into a real washer. Though the original design would always have a charm of its own.

I like 100 SPM. 63 SPM like on the older Maytags is fine too. Fewer strokes but with longer arcs is my preference.

Its not that the spray rinse is in the first rinse, is that at low speed it starts with the tub 1/3 full of water and at high speed 1/10th full. To early. Let the tub coast up to speed then spray.

The original design had the spray rinse listed to trigger in the second increment and the tech sheets reflected that. For some reason, not even published, Speed Queen changed it to the first increment.

(and if everyone is wondering why I deleted my reply its because I wanted to bite my tongue and not get into an argument over John's pointless, disparaging remarks which add nothing of value. But seeing his post received 4 upvotes {check marks} has me questioning if I'm on the right forum to begin with. Its not ridiculous when the water entering the tub is already full of water but what do I perceive maybe I'm just imagining all of it) 

The premature spray began at least in the 2009 AWN timer models all of which had a dedicated PP cycle. In some machines it was more pronounced than others since AWN311, AWN412, AWN432 and AWN42 all varying timer increments per second. (I'll post pics)

Spraying 1.25 gallons of water on top of 10 gallons isn't going to do much cooling. Or knock down many suds. 

The front load washer you advocate for have no heater making them pointless half the time.

There is compromise, and then there is being just flat out wrong.

Here are the original cycle diagrams from a 1998 Amana service manual depicting the same Amanas that would become the AWN series in latter years. Except for the addition of the motor start capacitor and the AWN542 being changed out from a 3 speed to a 2 speed motor the cycles, timers, and wiring are all identical.

"B" is the closing of the spray rinse contact. Note position in the cycle schematic.  

Future AWN311, 1 minute 30 second timer increments:

Future AWN412, 2 minute timer increments:

Future AWN432, 3 minute timer increments:

Future AWN542, 3 minute timer increments:

If we take a look at the listed cycle timing in the service manual the intent is the same- as to start the spray AFTER the first spin increment is complete.

Future AWN 412:

Future AWN542: