|
Thread Number: 92418
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
New member with Maytag A612 problems |
[Down to Last] |  |
|
| Post# 1170356 , Reply# 1 1/25/2023 at 20:35 (456 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
|
Which grease do I use? Silicone grease is preferred but I've also used Sil-Glyde with no problems. What was the condition of the damper surface? | ||
| Post# 1170381 , Reply# 2 1/26/2023 at 07:25 (455 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
 Can't help you with the aftermarket damper pads and grease, I've only used genuine Maytag parts. If the aluminum damper kissed the metal base, no amount of grease on new pads or fiddling with the tension springs will achieve proper operation. You'll need a new damper dome. Proper tensioning of the springs is difficult to explain on the internet. The factory states placing a 5 pound weight inside the tub and taking it for a spin. The tub should not go out of balance (too loose tension) but the cabinet should also not vibrate (too tight tension).
Play in the agitator shaft is a damaged shaft and sleeve bearings which will require a good used upper transmission housing or a good used transmission. With modern washers being complete POS's, it's certainly worth repairing. | ||
Post# 1170394 , Reply# 3 1/26/2023 at 12:43 (455 days old) by ryner1988  (Indianapolis) |
||
If you can't find the parts or deem the washer too far-gone/difficult to repair, there's always the TC5 model from Speed Queen. Your wife's grandma would probably like it as it has the long-stroke agitation style the same as her old A612, as well as spin drain and simple operation -- the only buttons on the thing are for deep fill and to start the machine. Everything else is dials. Of course, the price point is steep and a definitely consideration, but it's what I would want for myself if I had to get a new machine. I would also be open to an FL from LG with turbo wash, but I'm guessing her grandma doesn't want to learn a lot of fancy new tech since she's interested in keeping her old Maytag going.
Dan is right though, most new washers are crap. He's also correct in warning you to be careful about after-market parts as a lot of them just won't sit right with the way the machine is supposed to work and their overall quality is just questionable. This washer can be repaired if you have the patience to find mostly NLA parts and the technical know-how to get the job done. I had a Maytag of this era last summer and was only able to keep it for a short time because it started having problems I felt too intimidated by to repair as someone with a visual disability. I now have a used 2005 washer from Whirlpool and have a lot more confidence in keeping it going as my bro-in-law did several repairs on their similar machine and he has indicated that he will complete repairs for me whenever it needs done. But keeping an old washer going these days is a tricky business because parts are disappearing so quickly, which makes sense from an economical perspective. The companies want you to buy their new crap. | ||
|
Post# 1170479 , Reply# 6 1/27/2023 at 04:38 (455 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
||
Transmission Problems
I would look for another machine either as a parts donor or just use the entire machine.
We still see these on the scrap pile in pretty good condition every month that often had very low use. Almost any 30+ YO washer you see these days has had very low use or is very tired, even Maytags do not last 30+ years if they were washing 10+ loads a week. The reason you often see older MTs around is because a high % of them were purchased by older well off couples where the kids were all ready out of the house etc and they just did not get much use. John L. | ||
| Post# 1170508 , Reply# 7 1/27/2023 at 14:17 (454 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
|
still see these on the scrap pile Long stroke Maytag washers are scarce in my area these days, later orbital trans machines are available however. "toomanyhobbies" should head over to Combo's scrap pile. | ||
|
Post# 1170579 , Reply# 10 1/28/2023 at 16:56 (453 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
||
|
Maytag dependable care washers
Yeah, glad you found a much better machine. There’s still so many of these machines around that they’re really not worth repairing ( major repairs that is )unless you just want a big project.
Hope you get some good use out of this one I would save parts off the old one I’d be careful with the water valve if it’s original they tend to be a part that isn’t very durable in any washer. John. | ||
| Post# 1170588 , Reply# 11 1/28/2023 at 19:23 (453 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
|
Good find. BTW- I always lay the machines on the back side when transporting so any damage won't be seen, same goes when using a hand truck. As for what parts to save, just about everything that isn't worn out or rusted.. | ||
| Post# 1170723 , Reply# 12 1/30/2023 at 13:14 (451 days old) by toomanyhobbies (Port Tobacco, MD) | ||
|
Thanks... Thanks for the moving tip. Wish I had thought of that. I did transport on it side to minimize scratching, then I scratched the front while moving it in. Water valve in the A612 was a replacement, so I will keep it for the future. Still working good, as I expect it to and the Mrs is happy. | ||
| Post# 1170727 , Reply# 13 1/30/2023 at 14:09 (451 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
|
then I scratched the front while moving it in. Hand trucking it on the side risks damaging the front panel squeezing through doorways with the machine sideways at it widest point, i.e. front to back. | ||
| Post# 1170737 , Reply# 15 1/30/2023 at 16:49 (451 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
|
You'll want to address the critical areas on your new machine. Check the motor carriage tracks for cleanliness and plenty of silicone grease, check the condition of the rollers and the springs. You'll also want to check and grease the damper pads or they'll give you trouble in the near future. Remove the pump belt and give the pump pulley a twist. It should turn very easily with no roughness. It can be oiled to extend its life. Wouldn't be a bad idea to throw some new belts on it and meticulously adjust the pump belt tension. | ||
| Post# 1170856 , Reply# 16 2/1/2023 at 11:13 (449 days old) by toomanyhobbies (Port Tobacco, MD) | ||
|
@qsd-dan Thanks for the checklist. I will get things checked out after I get some silicon grease. How much grease is needed? And what the heck is turbine oil mentioned in the forums and where do I get it? | ||
| Post# 1170864 , Reply# 17 2/1/2023 at 14:26 (449 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
|
what the heck is turbine oil It's a light oil for electric motors and such. Supco Zoom Spout is one brand name, but there are others. Ace Hardware and plumbing supply houses usually stock it. | ||
| Post# 1170875 , Reply# 18 2/1/2023 at 17:08 (449 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
|
Silicone grease must be the correct viscosity. I tried using a common grease which was a little bit thicker and it caused the motor carriage to hang up and not clutch properly. On the damper pads, it caused the suspension to chatter and no amount of adjustments got it working correctly. Before Whirlpool discontinued it, the genuine Maytag grease was part#204999. Whirlpool has their own grease WP99003172 that is supposed to be a replacement but I've never used it. It's Molykote 111 compound so just buy it outright rather than paying 5 times the price for a Whirlpool part# of the same product. I would personally just get the 205000 spring/glide/grease kit that's still on eBay (these have been discontinued by Whrilpool, better snatch them up while they're still around) and purchase Molykote 111 grease for the damper pads.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/295060480686QUE... https://www.ebay.com/itm/294325372402QUE...
| ||
| Forum Index: |
| Other Forums: |
|
|
|
|
|
Comes to the Rescue!
;){kind=link}
;){kind=link}