My First Wringer!!!!!

The good news is that neither the transmission or wringer head are totally locked up. When I manually turned the belt, the agitator moved as it should when engaged, and remained neutral when disengaged. The wringer works in both forward and reverse, and remains neutral when off. The agitator popped off with no resistance to speak of, with very minimal corrosion underneath. (I believe that the white stuff is just calcium buildup). The agitator shaft looks amazing as well. The bad news is that the motor has seen some better days, as it started smoking about 5 seconds after I started it up under no load. That said, if I have to have a replacement, I have a spare dryer motor that is the correct size and RPM that I plan to use. Also, the transmission looks like it’s been leaking grease in several spots, particularly at the shaft seal for the worm gear. The wringers need some help too. They were left engaged by the previous owner, and stuck together when I got it. When I pried them apart, I found a large divot in the upper roller that will need to be filled with silicone sealant. The lower one is very rough on the surface. The bearings feel tight, but are not seized solid. All of this said, I do have a few questions before I start. First off, the wringer is sagging so much that it hits the tub when you swing it if you don’t lift it. What would cause this? It almost looks like there is a bushing or something missing. How do I remove the belt guard? It looks like it pries apart and the two halves separate, but I haven’t had any luck prying it. Also, is the motor on it original? Dan mentioned sanding the lower roller to make it smooth again. What grit sandpaper should I use for this? Also, what seals does the transmission need, and where can I get them? Are there any springs that are prone to flying away that I should know about when disassembling the machine? Thanks for the kind words and advice everyone! It is very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.

Photos... < > Photo 1 of 3 View Full Size


Forum Topics & Rules Manuals & Literature	New users Click-here to sign-up

Post# 1177318 4/6/2023 at 11:41 (394 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky)
Checkrate/Likes 6 Hey everyone!! I am so happy I feel like dancing! I am currently in Madison, IN, purchasing a wringer washer. It is an electric Maytag Gyrafoam from the late 1930’s! The motor runs, but it squeaks quite loudly, so I don’t want to run it anymore until I can oil it. Also, when I attempted to start the wringer, there was a clang, and the motor stopped, telling me that it likely has a locked up transmission. The agitator still moves freely in neutral, however, so that’s a plus. That said, it is in really nice shape overall, with very minimal rust for its age. The model tag is gone, but I think it is a model 32. Here’s a few pictures of it. Any advice on repairs is appreciated. Thanks, Thatwasherguy. Photos... < > Photo 1 of 8 View Full Size

Post# 1177323 , Reply# 1 4/6/2023 at 13:45 (393 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)
Checkrate/Likes 3 *Congrats on your Model 32 acquisition!* Indeed that is an early Model 32, before the wringer release bar was "upgraded" (I have the later model.) Question: do you mean the motor stopped when you engaged the wringer lever, or when you tried to start the agitator? If it was when you engaged the wringer, it's probably a problem with the wringer gear box, rather than the power unit (transmission). Don't hesitate to ask me any questions about restoration. I did a complete tear-down of my Model 32. ...Brad CLICK HERE TO GO TO bradross's LINK

Post# 1177327 , Reply# 2 4/6/2023 at 14:46 (393 days old) by qsd-dan (West)
Checkrate/Likes 3 You certainly chose a nice one to save, lots of these were stored outside in the elements and are rust buckets with a badly corroded tub and agitator. The lower wringer roll looks like it needs some help. Brad has had good luck sanding them down to a smooth surface. You can try removing the wringer head and see of the motor still complains. The grease in the wringer gearbox thickens with age. Could be dry bearings but I never found an oil port in these newer motors, you'll have to disassemble it and manually turbine oil the bearings. Also, inspect the belt for wear, check tension, and check the pulleys for abnormalities.

Post# 1177340 , Reply# 3 4/6/2023 at 17:42 (393 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky)
Checkrate/Likes 3 *Junior and I have been on a tour of Madison...* In the process, I saw another vintage (1970 model Maytag) wringer washer, an early WCI Frigidaire fridge, and a complete shaded coppertone G.E. Kitchen (stay tuned for a thread about them). Meanwhile, here’s another picture of my wringer. Thanks for the tips everyone! I’ll have to look into it once I’m back at home. Thanks. Thatwasherguy. View Full Size

Post# 1177344 , Reply# 4 4/6/2023 at 18:33 (393 days old) by JustJunque (Western MA)
Checkrate/Likes 2 *Congratulations!* I hope you get it sorted out, and get lots of enjoyment out of it!

Post# 1177462 , Reply# 5 4/7/2023 at 17:10 (392 days old) by Dermacie (my forever home (Glenshaw, PA))
Checkrate/Likes 2 I’m excited for you

Post# 1177871 , Reply# 6 4/11/2023 at 16:10 (388 days old) by Thatwasherguy (Kentucky)
Checkrate/Likes 1 *I’ve looked at the machine in more detail…* The good news is that neither the transmission or wringer head are totally locked up. When I manually turned the belt, the agitator moved as it should when engaged, and remained neutral when disengaged. The wringer works in both forward and reverse, and remains neutral when off. The agitator popped off with no resistance to speak of, with very minimal corrosion underneath. (I believe that the white stuff is just calcium buildup). The agitator shaft looks amazing as well. The bad news is that the motor has seen some better days, as it started smoking about 5 seconds after I started it up under no load. That said, if I have to have a replacement, I have a spare dryer motor that is the correct size and RPM that I plan to use. Also, the transmission looks like it’s been leaking grease in several spots, particularly at the shaft seal for the worm gear. The wringers need some help too. They were left engaged by the previous owner, and stuck together when I got it. When I pried them apart, I found a large divot in the upper roller that will need to be filled with silicone sealant. The lower one is very rough on the surface. The bearings feel tight, but are not seized solid. All of this said, I do have a few questions before I start. First off, the wringer is sagging so much that it hits the tub when you swing it if you don’t lift it. What would cause this? It almost looks like there is a bushing or something missing. How do I remove the belt guard? It looks like it pries apart and the two halves separate, but I haven’t had any luck prying it. Also, is the motor on it original? Dan mentioned sanding the lower roller to make it smooth again. What grit sandpaper should I use for this? Also, what seals does the transmission need, and where can I get them? Are there any springs that are prone to flying away that I should know about when disassembling the machine? Thanks for the kind words and advice everyone! It is very much appreciated. Thanks, Thatwasherguy. Photos... < > Photo 1 of 3 View Full Size

Post# 1177876 , Reply# 7 4/11/2023 at 17:53 (388 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)
Checkrate/Likes 1 Hello again ... I think it's time now that you introduced yourself to us! I'm pleased to offer assistance with your restoration, but I like to know whom I'm assisting! First off, don't give up on the motor yet. It may be a matter of dust/debris that has entered through the cooling vent(s). I've got a tutorial video on YouTube of disassembling and servicing the Delco motor. Second ... it appears that some pressure has been applied to the wringer housing and subsequently bent either the index plate on the post, or the tube that extends down from the wringer into the index plate. I would pull off the entire wringer housing and see if the tube is bent. You can also remove the index plate to check for damage.