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Thread Number: 93421
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag washer blew up… AGAIN |
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| Post# 1181041 , Reply# 1 5/20/2023 at 20:14 (341 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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| Post# 1181051 , Reply# 3 5/20/2023 at 21:26 (341 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
As someone who grew up using a 1976 Maytag set...
That does look overloaded to me (note the clothes above the water line), which would explain slow agitation (this is also commonly caused by thickened transmission oil or cold temperatures). However, it shouldn’t cause any sort of capacitor explosion. Like qsd-dan said, I would check the condition of the drive belt. It should have a nice coat of fabric on it to clutch. If this coating is worn off, or it was replaced with a non-coated belt, it will overwork the motor. Personally, I would buy a capacitor from a known quality manufacturer, replace the belt if needed, and go from there. You might even be able to get away without a capacitor if you have good line voltage in your area (my 1976 never had a capacitor the entire time we had it, and the 1978 model I currently own doesn’t either). These are great washers that last practically forever, so I would continue trying to fix it if it were me.
Hope this helps, Thatwasherguy. | ||
| Post# 1181054 , Reply# 5 5/20/2023 at 21:39 (341 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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Belt not slipping...
Does the motor slide freely on its track, and how much force is being applied by the springs? I once attempted to modify one with four springs instead of two, and ended up tripping the thermal overload when it went into spin. Rust on the track can also cause issues (had this happen with our ‘76 once). Also, what kind of shape is the belt in? It’s possible that the fabric clutch coating is worn away, especially if it was heavily used.
Hope this helps, Thatwasherguy. | ||
Post# 1181071 , Reply# 6 5/21/2023 at 00:56 (340 days old) by Adam-aussie-vac  (Canberra ACT) |
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I’ll have to see when I move the shelving that’s next to it As when I move that then I’ll be able to take the front panel off and check the motor tension, as well as drainage as well because it’s full of water | ||
| Post# 1181072 , Reply# 7 5/21/2023 at 01:01 (340 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
One thing I’d do is search for a dual action Load Sensor agitator, can literally stuff the machine full and won’t put much strain on the tub brake, transmission, belts, or any of the major components. Literally was able to wash 10 bath towels in my Maytag A806 with the Load Sensor agitator, washing 10 towels was fine but putting that many towels into a Maytag HOH electric dryer took a LONG time to dry.
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Post# 1181078 , Reply# 9 5/21/2023 at 04:49 (340 days old) by Adam-aussie-vac (Canberra ACT) |
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Reply number three Yeah it actually it Is cold as well, so probably partially contributed to it because once it’s done normally doing nail wash cycle it does spin and rinse fine | ||
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Post# 1181080 , Reply# 10 5/21/2023 at 06:15 (340 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Bad motor capacitor
Whether the machine was overloaded or not is in material, overloading a washer should not cause this type of failure.
I don’t know what kind of capacitor and motor set up Maytag used in Australia. Pictures would help. Maytag did not generally use start capacitors on the US machines although you could add it to any Maytag and it’s a good idea to add to any Maytag as they frequently have trouble starting with the crazy using the belt is a clutch design. Maybe they used to run capacitor as well in Australia not sure. If it’s a start capacitor, the machine should work without it. It’s also easy to change a start capacitor. But capacitors get old and just fail sometimes they don’t like sitting, especially and damp environments. John. | ||
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Post# 1181087 , Reply# 12 5/21/2023 at 11:32 (340 days old) by chetlaham (United States) |
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This post has been removed by the member who posted it. | ||
| Post# 1181088 , Reply# 13 5/21/2023 at 11:50 (340 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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Double the voltage rating for the capacitor to be on the safe side but keep the capacitance rating the same.
I still believe the upper agitator bearings are most likely seizing up if the trans isn't coming up to speed. If the trans pulley is difficult to turn counterclockwise with the belt removed, nothing else is going to fix the problem. | ||
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Post# 1181091 , Reply# 14 5/21/2023 at 11:52 (340 days old) by chetlaham (United States) |
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Capacitors exploding  Two things:
1. Caps need to be rated for the correct voltage, typically for a 230 volt motor the cap needs to be rated at least 330 or 440 volts.
2. Start caps (as apposed to run caps) left driving a motor for more than several seconds will be overwhelmed to the point that they fail within seconds to minutes from the point the centrifugal switch was supposed to open- failure seen here at 5:50:
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| Post# 1181097 , Reply# 15 5/21/2023 at 12:31 (340 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
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Reply #8
Here’s a video clip of the Maytag Load Sensor dual action agitator in my Maytag A806 I recorded awhile back. This is washing 10 shorts.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO Maytag85's LINK | ||
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Post# 1181106 , Reply# 16 5/21/2023 at 19:14 (340 days old) by Adam-aussie-vac (Canberra ACT) |
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Reply 13 I remember used to actually get up to speed, but it would be a lot more sluggish when it’s cold And once the transmissions been working for awhile, that’s when it starts to be a hell of a lot faster on start-up so I’m honestly not sure | ||
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Post# 1181125 , Reply# 17 5/22/2023 at 13:11 (339 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
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Post# 1181156 , Reply# 18 5/22/2023 at 20:58 (339 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
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In addition to prior advice, one thing to check would be whether the motor itself spins freely when the belt is off. On our A408, the motor bushings got gummed up after 40+ years of service, and the motor started tripping the thermal switch on spin start. We soaked it thoroughly with a penetrating cleaner, spinning by hand to free it up, then after thoroughly drying, it was re-oiled and has been working great ever since (3+ years now). | ||
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