Thread Number: 93706
/ Tag: Modern Dryers
Kenmore dyer help needed |
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Post# 1183510   6/26/2023 at 22:32 by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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A friend asked me to look at her dryer that is turning but stooped heating. Flipped breaker a couple of times and it seems o.K. I tested the receptacle and git 220
Unplugged and removed back cover the fuse tested bad but I’m confused..isn’t this suppose to have wire connectors attached?? |
Post# 1183511 , Reply# 1   6/26/2023 at 22:44 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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Yes it is supposed to. Someone has already bypassed the thermal fuse. The two blue wires in the wire nut originally went to the fuse. There should be another fuse at the top of the heater box that should read continuity as well as the cycling and high limit thermostats. The element should be around 10-11 ohms approximately. This dryer was built the 17th week of 2010.
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Post# 1183519 , Reply# 2   6/27/2023 at 00:47 by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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This confused the hell out of me!
I had continuity on the heater box as well as the high limit fuse..although I did not remove the wires to test.. I just made contact with my probs. (Old analog multimeter) I ran the dryer and had heat, then turned it off and checked another cycle but didn’t get heat again. I do have a new fuse to put in..as well as a new heating element new high limit fuse and new thermostat. So someone bypassed the fuse, rather than putting in a new fuse? Wondering if I can fix this correctly? |
Post# 1183524 , Reply# 3   6/27/2023 at 06:41 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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Some of these dryers had timer problems that presented a no heat situation when the dryer should’ve been heating. If the dryer is running and not heating when it is supposed to torque the timer knob in different directions while running while looking through the hole in the top of the heater box to see if the element starts to glow while you are doing this. If you are able to get the element to come on while torquing the timer knob up or down or side to side chances are you need a timer.
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Post# 1183525 , Reply# 4   6/27/2023 at 06:59 by combo52 ![]() |
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Hi Stan, yes, as Melvin mentioned, you probably have a bad timer.
Unless you got genuine, whirlpool, thermostats and heater leave the original heater, etc. on the dryer. The Chinese heaters are terrible. The thermal fuse that was bypassed on this dryer is wired in series with the motor to shut the whole dryer down if the exhaust temperature gets to around 200°F I would try to reinstall the correct thermal fuse make sure the one that’s there is actually bad somebody might’ve bypassed it not knowing what they were doing. If it has continuity, it’s still good. These were good dryers. You should be able to get it working easily. John |
Post# 1185161 , Reply# 5   7/18/2023 at 00:41 by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Got back to this dyer today, and took more time to test further with multimeter and found no continuity at timer. Specifically A B & C terminals.
In an attempt to save $ and since timer showed to be bad anyway.. I took the timer apart and cleaned contacts, re assembled and tested. I also took John’s advice and re attached wires to the fuse with new spade connectors. Dryer heats now, but timer does not advance. Assuming timer motor is bad? I tried? I told my friend that she either needed a new timer or a new dryer or a better skilled technician..I’m the free one LOL |