Thread Number: 93978  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Champion (Parnall) Spin-Washer - Disassembly.
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Post# 1186453   7/31/2023 at 21:14 (277 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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One tough part about restoring a rare vintage washing machine is that most times you don't have a great understanding of the parts, and hence, disassembly can be uncomfortably tricky. Especially with my recently acquired Champion Spin-Washer, it's not like I can just wing it and hope that it comes apart just fine.

For this thread, my aim is to educate myself on how to go about taking apart my 501, and to learn as much as I can about the machine's mechanics. I will mention that I do already know how to remove the agitator and also the cabinet, but anything after that is a mystery. As usual, any pictures and helpful info on this will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I'll provide some more photos:


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Post# 1186637 , Reply# 1   8/2/2023 at 21:49 (275 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Update

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Here is the progress I have made so far...

Post# 1186638 , Reply# 2   8/2/2023 at 21:50 (275 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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The Cabinet and lid have been taken off to reveal the inside.

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Post# 1186639 , Reply# 3   8/2/2023 at 21:51 (275 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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Post# 1186640 , Reply# 4   8/2/2023 at 21:53 (275 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
This is where I need help.

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With the agitator removed, I can see that there are a few screws that can be undone. Which ones to do first is a mystery, as well as that black cap on the shaft.

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Post# 1186641 , Reply# 5   8/2/2023 at 21:54 (275 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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A first look at the front.

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Post# 1186642 , Reply# 6   8/2/2023 at 21:56 (275 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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Also noting these screws. I wonder when to take out the outer tub.

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Post# 1186645 , Reply# 7   8/2/2023 at 21:57 (275 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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Another look at the front. This time, without the wiring.

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Post# 1186646 , Reply# 8   8/2/2023 at 21:58 (275 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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Inner shot of the pump assembly, and another outer-tub screw.

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Post# 1186647 , Reply# 9   8/2/2023 at 22:00 (275 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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Unsure of how to remove the valve-to-tub hose from the tub.

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Post# 1186648 , Reply# 10   8/2/2023 at 22:01 (275 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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Post# 1186649 , Reply# 11   8/2/2023 at 22:02 (275 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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A little concerned about the lid switch seal as well. I also don't know how to take that off from the outer tub, but it will need to get fixed for sure.

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Post# 1186650 , Reply# 12   8/2/2023 at 22:06 (275 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Where do I go from here?

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Hopefully I provided enough pictures. If more are needed, feel free to let me know. Now where do I go from here? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Post# 1186672 , Reply# 13   8/3/2023 at 03:07 (275 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
Info

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Did I send you the service document ?

Post# 1186677 , Reply# 14   8/3/2023 at 04:37 (275 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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I went through my e-mails and found no service document, but your one with the user manual is still there. If there is a service manual, feel free to e-mail it to me at gman09370937@gmail.com. Thanks!

Post# 1186779 , Reply# 15   8/3/2023 at 23:31 (274 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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My first time looking underneath the machine. The belt does look pretty ancient, but no visible rips or tears in it.

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Post# 1186787 , Reply# 16   8/4/2023 at 01:30 (274 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
Info

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I will get the info scanned and sent to you asap . The machine mechanically is the same as the UK spinwasher except the one I have is semi automatic .. if your able to leave taking the wash basket out until you receive the information as there is a way of doing it . Also I wouldn’t take the gearbox to bits unless there is a problem . It sits under the agitator in a dome like housing . I will get the info to you . Regards
Get


Post# 1186789 , Reply# 17   8/4/2023 at 02:36 (274 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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Thank you, Darren. There's no rush to take the machine apart, I'll be working with my father on Sunday to figure out a way to get the fill nozzle off the outer tub. Regarding the Gearbox, I wouldn't mess with any of the gears, but I am still a little concerned about the amount of oil left in there after the spill it did. I would like to refill it if it's easy to take the lid off. Thanks again for sending me the info!

Post# 1186798 , Reply# 18   8/4/2023 at 05:54 (274 days old) by keymatic (London / UK)        

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Morning Gabriel,

I have a UK version of the same machine you have recently acquired (Parnall Spin Washer Mk2) i haven't really done much to it as it was in working order when i got it some 15 years ago. I guess the only thing i would say is due to the age i would be mindful about leaning it on it's side, as you have already discovered, one the oil escaping but also the fact that these machines have a very large conical rubber cone inside which protects the drive to the agitator, this sits within the water storage tank, if this in anyway splits / cracks etc the replacement would be a nightmare !! I have never seen this rubber cone to gauge the thickness etc

I know with my machine i had difficulty in getting the braking right and had to use feeler gauges as it was braking to abruptly.

Wishing you all the best with the project

Regards
Keith


Post# 1186959 , Reply# 19   8/6/2023 at 02:44 (272 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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The first roadblock in the project is taken care of. I originally couldn't even move the fill nozzle because it had ceased in place on the outer tub. After cleaning the edges with a wipe, I took a putty knife and gently broke it free of the outer tub. After this, It still wouldn't loosen up enough for me to pull it off. A reasonable solution to this issue appeared to be heating the rubber up with a hairdryer and making it more flexible. Sure enough, after only about 3 minutes under the heat, it simply popped off the outer tub. Completely undamaged! That was a great Problem-Solving moment for me.

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Post# 1187525 , Reply# 20   8/13/2023 at 18:21 (264 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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Any updates on the Service Document info? I myself have been out of action for the week because of sickness, but I'm back up to strength and eager to resume my progress. No new changes to the machine have occurred since the last post.

Post# 1187660 , Reply# 21   8/15/2023 at 16:41 (262 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
Info

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I’ve resent the info to your email address . Regards Darren

Post# 1187680 , Reply# 22   8/15/2023 at 20:30 (262 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
I've received the Service Manual. Thanks!

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Looks like the first thing I must do is remove the "Agitator Head Plug Unit," which gives the appearance of a black cap on the shaft. Unsure of how to get it removed, but studying the diagram of parts in picture 1 shows me it might need to be unscrewed. A confirmation would be nice before I actually attempted that.

Part 247 in the diagram.


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Post# 1187681 , Reply# 23   8/15/2023 at 20:35 (262 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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Post# 1187721 , Reply# 24   8/16/2023 at 10:42 (261 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
Is there a problem with the gear box ?

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Is there a problem in the gear box ?

Post# 1187793 , Reply# 25   8/16/2023 at 19:41 (261 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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Whoops, I misunderstood the sequence. Turns out the agitator drive shaft doesn't need to come apart for the tub to be taken out.

According to Step 5. To Remove Basket Assembly, I will have to remove "12 mush. hd. screws from clamping ring," and the basket assembly will lift off. I circled these screws in red. It then goes on to say that you can take off the Basket Liner by removing the 6 Philips screws and nuts holding it in place, circled in yellow.

I'll do that later today, and once that's out, I'll need to figure out what to do next, perhaps step 6.



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Post# 1187810 , Reply# 26   8/16/2023 at 22:49 (261 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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The tub might be stuck. I think it was designed to come off of the dome housing, but it stayed connected when I attempted to lift.






Post# 1187898 , Reply# 27   8/18/2023 at 01:59 (260 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Update:

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I pried off the metal ring, and it looks like I will also need to remove the 8 Philips screws holding the center in place. I thought the blue base was 2 pieces screwed together, but it looks like it's one piece. Anyhow, I'll still get those screws removed, and we'll see if it comes out then.

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Post# 1187901 , Reply# 28   8/18/2023 at 04:04 (260 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Screw Trouble

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I got the Agitator Tube cleaned up as best as I could. I then proceeded to apply some WD-40 to the screws. They are unfortunately about to round out and are beyond my ability to loosen with my screwdriver without damaging them further. I really don't know how to solve that issue, so I'm getting ready to research some solutions. Any ideas?

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Post# 1187908 , Reply# 29   8/18/2023 at 09:12 (259 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

1. Clean out the slots in the top of the screws.

2. Soak in Inox, not WD40. Leave a day or two.

3. Try a selection of screwdriver bits to use in a cordless screwdriver/drill. Try both Phillips and Pozidriv bits, in several sizes each. Only one will fit Perfectly.

 

only trial-fit them first in the screw heads, don't use them in a driver/drill till you have chosen the perfect fit. This gives you the best chance of undoing the screws without damage.

 

4. Maybe try a cordless impact driver with the correct bit?

 

 


Post# 1187929 , Reply# 30   8/18/2023 at 17:01 (259 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
Tub removal

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To get the tub and gear box out you need to remove the clutch housing and drive and brake cone from under the machine . The gear box and tub ( all attached ) will slide out upwards ..
I really wouldn’t open the bell housing on the gear box unless there is a known problem . Did you get the service manual okay ? The only time you would need to get the complete unit out is to service the snubber seal … call me if you get stuck . Regards Darren


Post# 1188146 , Reply# 31   8/22/2023 at 00:39 (256 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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I'm delighted to inform everyone of my progress. I took the day off to study Step 7 in the service manual, as well as the Clutch Helix and Brake assembly diagram on page 22.

I carefully laid the machine on its side and supported both tubs with towels. The manual was a tremendous help to me and allowed me to take apart the base with relative ease. I almost made an error standing the machine up to undo the clamp bar, as the tub and brake drum unexpectedly slid down, but everything appears to be fine.

Brake drum removed, I slid the tub, gearbox, and shaft out of the tub while it was on its side, reasoning that I probably wouldn't be able to lift it standing because of the weight. And there it was! The inner tub came right out of the machine, revealing the inside of the outer tub. It really isn't looking too bad in there, I can totally get that cleaned up just fine. I don't know how the tub seal is, but it'll be easier to tell once it's clean.

The rest of the disassembly is looking very much accomplishable, now that the tub, clutch, and brake assembly are finally out of the picture. I'm looking forward to resuming my progress tomorrow. Thanks Darren for the service manual!


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Post# 1188198 , Reply# 32   8/22/2023 at 16:10 (255 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
Brilliant progress

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Brilliant progress . Keep the restore going

Post# 1188251 , Reply# 33   8/22/2023 at 23:57 (255 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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Disassembly is pretty much complete now. I left the Snubber Seal assembly on the outer tub in just case it was one of those Do-Not-Disturb assemblies. The Motor, Capacitor, Pump, and Pressure container have all been removed from the base, and the outer tub has been disconnected from it as well.

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Post# 1188252 , Reply# 34   8/23/2023 at 00:03 (255 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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I would like your thoughts on what to do with these parts from the machine. Regarding the transmission, would it still operate fine with half of its oil missing?

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Post# 1188499 , Reply# 35   8/25/2023 at 16:34 (252 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
Oil level

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Well done and good work stripping the machine . As the oil came down the side of the drive shaft I would try and replace the oil down the same way . You could make a small reservoir with a plastic bag and some strong elastic bands to allow the oil to seep down the drive shaft Do you have any idea how much oil you lost . The service document will tell you the quantity I think it was shell Trocus oil ?? Just an idea ?

Post# 1189029 , Reply# 36   8/31/2023 at 23:40 (246 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Transmission update:

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I don't think the source of the oil leak was from the drive shaft. A look at the bottom of the machine's agitator revealed no signs of oil runoff from the shaft. Furthermore, when I decided to investigate how much oil was left in the transmission by successfully removing the agitator tube, there turned out to be a lot more oil missing than I expected.

This uncertainty with the leak left me puzzled. The only theory I could think of was that oil came through the basket clamp ring via a leak in the main oil seal. I'm currently working on fixing this issue.

In other news, I will be beginning the cleanup process soon. Everything is just about organized for that to happen.


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Post# 1189050 , Reply# 37   9/1/2023 at 08:13 (245 days old) by keymatic (London / UK)        

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Hi Gabriel,

You are making fantastic progress with the Champion washer !! You have definitely taken on a challenge there and you have delved much deeper than i ever would with my Parnall Spinwasher.

Keep up the great work and look forward to seeing the working machine in due course.

Cheers
Keith


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Post# 1189234 , Reply# 38   9/3/2023 at 20:28 (243 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Snubber Seal

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So the snubber seal is still in the outer tub, and I've been investigating it some more. It's probably a good idea to put a plastic bag over it during cleaning so that no water gets on the inside.

But after I clean the tub, the snubber seal is going to need some attention. The outer part of the seal looks fine to me, but the inner part does not. It's the complete opposite of dry, giving off an almost melted appearance. Perhaps the correct word is rotten. There are two visible tears in it, both small, but they will have to be addressed if the machine is to hold water properly.

I know how to remove the outer snubber so that I can look at repairing the inner seal, but first, I'll gather your thoughts.



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Post# 1189732 , Reply# 39   9/10/2023 at 07:07 (237 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
Any seal progress

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How did you get on with the seal issues it looks like the oil leak may have damaged the rubber ….. ?? It doesn’t look as bad and is repairable
…. Can you post some
More photos of the seal inside and out and also what’s the counter surface made of ?
Keep us posted Darren


Post# 1189774 , Reply# 40   9/10/2023 at 20:22 (236 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Snubber Seal update

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I was able to successfully remove the seal from the outer tub. I also discovered why it wasn't matching the picture in the service manual, as the upper half of the seal had apparently flexed into itself. Flexing it back to shape is great because it makes it easier for me to get it cleaned up and repaired.

I will give the seal a light wipe-down on the outside to remove the dirt from there. For the inside, I'll probably remove the top part and do the same steps as the outside, and there looks to be a lot of debris residing there.

To repair it, I'll leave it in the freezer to solidify it enough to patch the holes with gasket maker, especially that top piece. And we'll see what happens from there.

If by the counter surface you mean the top of the machine, that's made of porcelain, with the exception of the lid which almost feels like plastic.


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Post# 1189791 , Reply# 41   9/11/2023 at 06:19 (236 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
Can you post a few more pictures

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When it’s cleaned up and sorted I think it will be just fine …. I remember the terrible
Gunk on the one I did . Was almost like a green oily slime ?? But it cleaned up
Fine and worked …!!
Before you put it back on the machine can you send a few more photos … thanks Darren


Post# 1190124 , Reply# 42   9/17/2023 at 03:25 (230 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Seal Update

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This update has mixed news. The good results came from the main snubber, which cleaned up rather great I must admit. Flexible and moisturized, that part is definitely reusable. The absorber tube is not perfect after cleaning, but it's certainly much better than it was when I first pulled it out and can be reused.

It's not looking good for the upper seal. Placing it in the freezer didn't help much to solidify it enough for cleaning. Moreover, there are actually two holes in the seal, and the inside looks very rough along with the lip. I am beginning to doubt my ability to repair it. While it probably isn't impossible, I was wondering how easy it would be to get my hands on a replacement?

I'll see what else I can do about it, but that's where everything stands for now.



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Post# 1190172 , Reply# 43   9/17/2023 at 19:25 (229 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
All good don’t worry

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The main cone is great which is perfect . Much the same on my mk11 spinwasher with the top looking
a bit shabby . What I did was to have a non ferrous collar machined to go over the top of the main shaft of the tub and then use a modern lip seal onto the main snubber . The outer dimension need to sit into the top of the cone … you can then apply a stainless clamp to hold the new seal in place . Find someone who can do laithe work it sounds complicated but any good bearing shop will sell the modern seal … . The non ferrous collar is the key to the seal as the main drive shaft is made of steel and won’t hold a seal … .. best wishes Darren


Post# 1190173 , Reply# 44   9/17/2023 at 19:47 (229 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
This type of seal

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This type of seal is what I used

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Post# 1190175 , Reply# 45   9/17/2023 at 20:24 (229 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
This may help

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This was from one of the Bendix machines I’ve done in the past . The older mechanical seals were impossible to find so this is where the conversion cloaking to the drive shaft was done . You may be able to see what my friend with the laithe was able to do . Really good job ….

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Post# 1191242 , Reply# 46   10/4/2023 at 10:39 (212 days old) by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
How are you doing

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How are you progressing ? Did you have any luck with the seal


Post# 1191318 , Reply# 47   10/5/2023 at 19:04 (211 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Seal update:

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I apologize for the stall in updates. The collar alternative is currently unachievable for me in my current circumstances. But that being said, that didn't stop me from continuing on with my original idea. I believe I may have pulled off a successful repair...

It was a careful job, but I wiped the good parts of the seal housing clean. Then, I took the gasket maker that I had on hand and sealed up the two holes as well as other wrinkled spots along the edge. On the inside, slowly but surely, I rebuilt the edges where the spring is held in place, and I also sealed the holes from the inside. Additionally, I revived the spring for good measure.

Spring and clamp secure, it appears to be functioning as designed. The spring no longer pops out like before, and it can hold the housing up even when it is pushed down. The water seal is fine, but I'll be putting some Vasoline around where it sits in the housing, just to be safe.

For now, things are looking up for the Snubber Seal Assembly. Thanks for your suggestions!


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Post# 1191406 , Reply# 48   10/6/2023 at 19:25 (210 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

Is that a Shacklock branded Gentle Annie in the background?


Post# 1191963 , Reply# 49   10/15/2023 at 03:23 (202 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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Here goes the Pressure Container and Pump assembly after cleanup. More cleaning pics to come.

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Post# 1192799 , Reply# 50   10/30/2023 at 17:00 (186 days old) by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Update

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I don't have a photograph to put with this reply, but I am just letting everyone know that I finished all of the small parts on my table, apart from the control panel. Everything from the Pump to the Agitator Tube is looking a lot better than previously. All I need to do now is dedicate a day to cleaning the larger components with my Power Washer. Then, that should hopefully wrap up the cleaning phase of the repair.

Post# 1194800 , Reply# 51   12/5/2023 at 20:57 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Big parts update

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Here is a video of me cleaning the bigger components with the power washer. It wasn't as effective as I thought it would be, but I guess that's what happens when the stains are over 50 years old. I finished them off by hand, and I'll include some pictures of everything in my next post.





Post# 1195231 , Reply# 52   12/12/2023 at 01:16 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Photos of all cleaned parts

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Here are some photos of my work. The small parts on the table are looking very nice after getting them clean.

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Post# 1195232 , Reply# 53   12/12/2023 at 01:19 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Large parts

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In the end, I had to clean all of these pieces by hand, but it was worthwhile!

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Post# 1195233 , Reply# 54   12/12/2023 at 01:26 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
The next step

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I'm going to see if I can paint a few of the parts that are scratched up and rusty. The transmission also still needs its job.

Post# 1195242 , Reply# 55   12/12/2023 at 05:00 by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)        
Champion (Parnall) Spin-Washer

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Great work Gabriel, good to see all the parts broken down , it will be well worth your time for the long run , its very interesting machine with great features .

Look forward to seeing the assembly & testing ,

Cheers , Mike


Post# 1203594 , Reply# 56   4/17/2024 at 02:13 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
17/04/2024 update

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I have some new updates on the Champion washing machine.

Firstly, I went to Bunnings and purchased myself some cans of Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy. I then began spray-painting the panels and the machine's base plate. I've never painted appliances before, so I used the back panel as my practice piece before doing the others. It turned out slightly rough and patchy, but I was fine with that since it was at the back of the machine. Moreover, I improved at spraying with the other parts.

I finished the last piece a couple of days ago, and everything looks great. I can't wait to see what it all looks like when it's reassembled. I'll include photos here soon.


Post# 1203595 , Reply# 57   4/17/2024 at 02:18 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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This is the back panel that I practiced on. I'm honestly alright with how it turned out. You can't even tell that it's patchy without a reflection.

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Post# 1203596 , Reply# 58   4/17/2024 at 02:19 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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The baseplate is looking much better.

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Post# 1203597 , Reply# 59   4/17/2024 at 02:20 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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The pump shield.

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Post# 1203598 , Reply# 60   4/17/2024 at 02:22 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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This is the lid & top of the machine, which are especially shiny.

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Post# 1203599 , Reply# 61   4/17/2024 at 02:26 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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The cabinet itself turned out fine, apart from a small spot that I tried to fix while it was drying; It ended up spider-webbing.

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Post# 1203600 , Reply# 62   4/17/2024 at 02:28 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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Finally, the upper back plate. I preserved the paper during the painting process.

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Post# 1203602 , Reply# 63   4/17/2024 at 02:30 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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All thanks to Rustolium Appliance Epoxy, which I now highly recommend.

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Post# 1203603 , Reply# 64   4/17/2024 at 02:39 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Transmission Update

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Secondly, I went ahead and disassembled the machine's gearbox. I took it outside and used my degreaser to degrease the case and the gears. I scraped away the gunk on the outside of the case and finished it off with my metal sponge. After giving the gears some attention, I put them back in the case, and this is how things are looking now:

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Post# 1203604 , Reply# 65   4/17/2024 at 02:42 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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I also bought the correct size hoses for my water valve, which has a clamp-on input.

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Post# 1203605 , Reply# 66   4/17/2024 at 02:58 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Power Cord

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Finally, I put together a new plug for my machine.

After running some tests, I can confirm that the timer, motor, and pump on the machine are fully functional. The 'Power On' light is burnt out, but the 'Wash Finished' light does work. I might post clips of those tests later, but here's a picture of the new plug.


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Post# 1203606 , Reply# 67   4/17/2024 at 03:05 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
What's Next

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The cleaning phase of the job is pretty much complete now. Now, I'll start slowly reassembling the machine.

Does someone know what weight of oil I can use for the gearbox and how much to put in it?


Post# 1203607 , Reply# 68   4/17/2024 at 03:44 by vacbear58 (Sutton In Ashfield, East Midlands, UK)        


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Great job!

Post# 1203609 , Reply# 69   4/17/2024 at 04:38 by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)        
Champion Parnall Spinwasher

chestermikeuk's profile picture
Hi Gabriel , your doing a grand job of the complete restoration of your Champion machine,

I think the type of oil and amount will be in the service documentation that Darren sent to you , think its Shell Truco oil ?

Look forward to seeing the finished result.

Cheers, Mike


Post# 1203670 , Reply# 70   4/18/2024 at 00:12 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Gear Oil

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I did a Google search for "Shell Trochus Oil" as well as the alternatives "Shell J50" and "Carnea 69", but I did not find any relevant results. I believe that any brand of gear oil will work for the transmission, but I just need to find out what weight it requires.

Post# 1203977 , Reply# 71   4/23/2024 at 01:16 by Slowspin66 (lincoln uk)        
Excellent progress

slowspin66's profile picture
It’s coming a long REALLY good . You’ve done a fabulous job it has to be said .. if you carnt get the shell trocus I would get some advice as to what would be the best thing . Ask at an oil / hydraulic workshop local to you . As for the wash light what about replacing with an LED . Just a thought . Lovely to see your on the home stretch . Darren

Post# 1204328 , Reply# 72   4/29/2024 at 18:28 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        
Oil confusions

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I went to Supercheap Auto and asked an expert there about a modern alternative to Shell Trochus, Shell J50, or Carnea 69. However, after looking, we never found a suitable replacement for any of them. We did find a cross-referencing chart, but it did not mention any of the oils, probably due to their age.

Is there perhaps an oil expert here who can recommend a gear oil?



Post# 1204352 , Reply# 73   4/30/2024 at 08:57 by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

Is it critical to use the exact oil?

I'd be asking some current oil manufacturers, like Shell, Castrol, Penrite.
Penrite have a great reputation and I have heard many times (on a classic car forum) that they have a really helpful technical department.

I have done a bit of googling for you, looking for equivalents to your list in the post above. I got a bit of info when searching for "carnea 69 oil equivalent."

It seems there is an equivalent modern Shell product, Shell Morlina S2 B 150. It seems to be available in 44 gallon drums for thousands of dollars each! EEK.
It also lists a generic match, Vitrea Oil 150 as a specification.

I have done a bit more searching and it seems this is a very basic, low cost machine oil, in other words, nothing special.

That's why I'd contact a company like Penrite's technical advice department, tell them what you are doing, and ask their advice. I suspect that many modern oils, including automotive engine oils and gear oils, will do what you need and be a way better product that what was used originally in your washing machine.

One thing to watch is if there are any bronze bushes/bearings in the transmission, then the oil company needs to know about this. I understand that modern car gear oils (used in manual car transmissions) have additives that destroy phosphor-bronze bushes. This is a problem for old (1960s) Peugeot worm-drive differentials, which have bronze bushes in them. From the photos above I think I can see a bronze bush in your transmission.

I have now just found this...
penriteoil.com.au/forums/topic/1...

Which again makes me suggest - talk to Penrite.


Post# 1204378 , Reply# 74   4/30/2024 at 16:57 by brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        

Chris is right. Penrite are the bomb. I needed a long obsolete Shell oil for the bronze bushes in my Malleys, I emailed penrite and they came back with a non detergent oil for vintage motorcycle shock absorbers that was apparently a modern equivalent. It cost me $25 to order online.

Post# 1204428 , Reply# 75   5/1/2024 at 18:45 by GRNAppliance (Whakatane, New Zealand)        

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Well, I contacted Penrite via email this morning. They just wrote back saying they have no equivalent to the products I mentioned. They suggested that I contact Shell to determine if their products are suitable for my requirements. I might do that later today.

If Shell doesn't have an alternative oil, I might just purchase a 90-weight Penrite oil and be done with it. It would still be nice, though, if I could have the certainty of putting the correct oil into my machine, so I'll keep trying.



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