You could add sound dampening pads to the inside of the machine, but me personally I like the sound. I've used these in the coin-op version and I found them to be really solid respectable washers. If everyone was like me this design would have been the second most common in existence next to the Maytag dependable cares.

Correct- on the inside of the enclosure and the outside of the outer tub. Just don't go overboard and stack it though, the tub needs to able move around in the cabinet.

John has some really good ideas, as mentioned you can even use foam strips between the panels. It all depends on how much sound dampening you want/need.

Tribles, our local store in Beltsville PHONE #  301-313-9111

Don't know where you are but we have more new belts in stock than we will ever use for those machines at our shop.

John 

I'm so proud of you and grateful that you now have this set. I'm happy that you can see what I see- an elegant, well designed washer that is built like a tank. I love this design (its my second favorite) and I hope you continue to fall in love with it.

I'm envious of the water circulation. I wish my Speed Queen had that. 

Personally I think the belts are ok (for now) but I also vote changing them out just to avoid the trouble in the future when you've already well into using the washer.

Question for the experts- what does the cool down do on this machine? I notice both delicate and PP have it on the dial.

Art is a universal language. When you see it, there is no need to understand it as beauty captivates seduction. What you are experiencing is your mind recognizing and falling in love with engineering perfection. These Amanas are IMO the second greatest washer design ever produced next to the Maytag Dependable Care. If everyone was as lucid as me this design would be as common as Whirlpool DDs are in this reality.

The water fall you notice is indeed re-circulation. Re-circulation can pull powdered or liquid detergent thats migrated to the bottom of the tub and introduce it into the wash water. The drain impeller of the pump running in reverse during agitation also helps with this. Recirculation was fairly common in washers but because of cost cutting it basically disappeared in the 90s. 

I like this model because it has all the positives that could come with a top load washer- long lasting, durable, quiet, excellent suspension, solid design, good capacity, two belt system, slip belt for clutching, pump mounted away from the motor, large transmission, stainless steal wash basket porcelain on steal outter tub, simple electrical, fast cycle times and of course recirulation. 

I have no idea what the cool down does on this machine, whether its half a tub drain followed by a fill or just a long spin spray. There may be a tech sheet (piece of paper) tucked away in the console behind the timer that gives away the function of the cool down. The cycle sequence should be printed on there and it usually gives away more details than the user manual.

And before I forget- the lack of shaking and vibration you see in spin is not common for most other washers. This washer spin cycle wise is in a class of its own. You can set it on an average wooden floor and will not shake, vibrate or make noise like a lot of other washers do. It is difficult for a load to become unbalanced in this machine, and IIRC if it does this machine has a trip function that will shut the motor down. This  washer is perfect for a second or third floor.   

Yes.

The washer is from 1990-1993. The dryer is from 1984-1989.

Yes, that is a Maytag Dependable Care. The simplest, longest lasting, most durable washer ever made hands down. 

Regarding your Amana according to the use and care manual you posted the machine has a real cool down! It will drain, then refill itself with cold water several times until the total drain time accumulates enough to advance the timer into the next increment. This is the best type of cool down a washer can have- the same type of cool down used on 70s and 80s Maytag Dependable Cares.

The rest of the cycle times are ideal. For example Regular has a 7 minute final spin- this is enough time to get even a heavy load damp dried for the dryer. 5 minutes of rinse agitation to get everything turned over and detergent washed out. Permanent press has shorter times for compliment more causal fabrics and delicate uses intermediate agitation for gentle garments. Spin Sprays seem long- 45 seconds? A lot of newer washers were limited to a 5-10 second spray- later models didn't even spin-spray.

You're very lucky to have found a washer like this.

There are 4 major types of cool downs-

Type 1 Cool Down: the tub drains, refills, drains, then refills as many times until the timer advances out of that increment. The timer only runs while the motor is in drain mode, so the lower the water level switch is set the more drain and refills take place.

Type 2 Cool Down: Half the tub drains (only once) and then stops when the pressure switch resets. The timer continues to run but no more draining takes place. The timer advances to the next increment where the tub re-fills with cold water before moving onto the first full drain/spin.

Type 3 Cool Down: The machine goes right into drain and spin, and when the pressure switch resets cold water is sprayed into the tub. Cold water continues to run into the tub during the whole duration of the first spin cycle. When the drain/spin stops the cold water continues to flow filling the tub up for the rinse cycle. 

Type 4 Cool Down: After the water has drained out and the tub is more or less up to speed cold water is sprayed into the tub for 5 to 30 seconds. Spray ends and the first spin continues without more water.

This of course assumes a machine with a cool down, a lot of machines from the 2000s onward did not even have a cool down of any type.

Type 1 is the best type of Cool Down in that is does the most amount of water change-outs before advancing into spin. Type 3 and 4 often do little to properly cool down the fabrics, especially type 4 which already has the hot fabric being creased into the tub before any type of cool down takes place.

This is normal. Before a machine can go into spin a half dozen contacts must open and close in the correct sequence. Typically the pressure switch bypass contact must close first, the motor run contact must then open, both wash fill contacts must open after that, and then the first motor reversing contact must break from the line side of the timer bus and afterwards make contact with the neutral side of the timer bus, then the second motor reversing contact must break contact from the neutral side of the timer bus and then make contact with the line side of the timer bus. Finally the motor run contact must close. All this must take place in the correct sequence with a broad enough timer increment to assure everything opened and closed in the right order, in full fashion. For example if the motor run contact closed before both reversing contacts had the opportunity to close into their respected polarities the motor would just hum for several seconds before the motor's thermal protector trips out. The pause is essential in assuring the correct switching sequence is not left up to chance. 

@Dadoes: Most likely I did- that would be my mistake.  This is where my ignorance shows. Can you fill me on how WP/KM did Type 1 and Type 2 Cool Downs?

I forgot about these cool down variants!  Thank you for posting them.

BTW- I love the cool down and the sprays in the first rinse. I forgot these had essentially two different types of cool downs

When can modern washers be like this again?