Thread Number: 94353
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
1986 Kenmore 60 Series DD--Refurb Project |
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Post# 1190370 , Reply# 2   9/21/2023 at 00:57 (226 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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That clutch will need cleaning from all the oil that splashed up onto it somehow. There's oil that has been flung around the bottom of the machine which may have been one of the reasons why the transmission was likely refurbished. |
Post# 1190371 , Reply# 3   9/21/2023 at 01:00 (226 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Slung oil: |
Post# 1190382 , Reply# 4   9/21/2023 at 06:58 (226 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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This was a good era for this machine, from your pictures. It’s very unlikely anybody ever did anything to this washer certainly didn’t change the oil that’s what the oil looks like in machines of that vintage
It’s very common for the pump to get rusted onto the motor shaft when there’s a slight leak at the pump, seal, be sure to file the motor shaft completely smooth so that the new pump slips on and off easily if you have to force the pump on the motor shaft, it will ruin the seal and the new water pump quickly. You need to replace the two top oil seals in the transmission that’s where the oil is leaking into the clutch and being flung into the cabinet from. There were a few problems with the neutral drain system on these early, direct drive transmissions with this feature, it wasn’t until much later that they started to have trouble with the neutral dream pack. so it does not surprise me that it works perfectly. John. |
Post# 1190387 , Reply# 5   9/21/2023 at 09:28 (226 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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That reminds me, rebuilt the transmission in my Whirlpool in the spring of 2021. Haven’t had a single issue in 2 years since the rebuild.
Not sure why the oil foams up when you manually move the parts inside the transmission, my guess is the anti-foaming additives inside the oil are beginning to break down after 37 years along with the other additives inside the oil. With a belt drive transmission, I don’t think the oil has a chance of really foaming up since everything tends to move at a slower pace then the direct drives with the quick and short 90 degree agitation strokes as opposed with the 145 degree agitation arc in the older belt drive transmissions.
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Post# 1190403 , Reply# 8   9/21/2023 at 13:43 (226 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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John, I'm terribly sorry haha. Had you confused with DADeOS there for a minute because he recently commented on one of my old posts. BTW, there's two seals in the top of transmission? |
Post# 1190778 , Reply# 10   9/27/2023 at 22:52 (219 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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Post# 1190781 , Reply# 12   9/28/2023 at 00:06 (219 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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I thought about ordering a seal for the transmission I rebuilt 2 years ago out of my ‘63 Whirlpool but decided to just use Permatex gasket maker and so far, no oil leaks on the 2 years since I’ve done the rebuilt. On the other transmission I have, might just pack it with corn head grease since it basically turns into a heavy gear oil when mixed around but returns back into a grease once it settles. Packed the oscillation box on the 1950’s GE Vortalex fan I have with corn head grease and so far haven’t had a single issue with it.
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Post# 1190782 , Reply# 13   9/28/2023 at 03:04 (219 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Can't imagine how that would work on a seal that sits around a moving part? But again, I'm not one to talk. Only thing I knew how to do was break it when I tried getting the old one out, so it's rather beyond repair now. |
Post# 1190787 , Reply# 14   9/28/2023 at 08:36 (219 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 1190797 , Reply# 15   9/28/2023 at 12:34 (219 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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Post# 1190823 , Reply# 16   9/28/2023 at 21:43 (218 days old) by SwedesApplServ (Cheyenne, WY)   |   | |
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I have made the mistake of attempting to use the "pickle fork" method of levering off seized pumps and wound up crushing the bearing caps on the motor. |
Post# 1190904 , Reply# 17   9/29/2023 at 21:24 (217 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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New transmission seal in! |
Post# 1190910 , Reply# 18   9/29/2023 at 23:05 (217 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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She's reassembled and ready to......sit for another day 'til the new gasket dries....*sigh*
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Post# 1190920 , Reply# 19   9/30/2023 at 03:03 (217 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Heres a pic of what actually failed on my neutral drain.
It was hard to see till after cleaning. Nothing else was wrong except this thin metal hub Just a heads up for your next one. HTH
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Post# 1190921 , Reply# 20   9/30/2023 at 03:20 (217 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Did yours have the plastic cam around the underhub of the spin gear, or was it old enough to just have the metal spring like what I've seen in some of the older patent files for these? Mine has the plastic cam/tang. |
Post# 1190980 , Reply# 21   9/30/2023 at 19:58 (216 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 1190988 , Reply# 22   9/30/2023 at 22:02 (216 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Thanks for the info Stan. |
Post# 1190989 , Reply# 23   9/30/2023 at 22:07 (216 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Went ahead and put a new lid switch that I had laying around in this one since it didn't originally have a properly working one when I got it in 2020. Now finally ready to reassemble everything else back together and test everything! |
Post# 1190993 , Reply# 25   9/30/2023 at 23:04 (216 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Also cleaned the oil off the base and cabinet as well. (Some of that is rust)
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Post# 1190995 , Reply# 26   9/30/2023 at 23:13 (216 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Some twin shots I thought were cool. |
Post# 1190996 , Reply# 27   9/30/2023 at 23:27 (216 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Filling up now as I type this.... |
Post# 1190997 , Reply# 28   9/30/2023 at 23:38 (216 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Filling up now as I type this.... |
Post# 1190998 , Reply# 29   9/30/2023 at 23:41 (216 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Now agitating. So far no leaks, and sounds & works normal!
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Post# 1190999 , Reply# 30   9/30/2023 at 23:48 (216 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Beautifulz! |
Post# 1191000 , Reply# 31   9/30/2023 at 23:54 (216 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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The obligatory pump bubbles as well....
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Post# 1191001 , Reply# 32   10/1/2023 at 00:02 (216 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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The lovely elusive final spin only singular spray rinse on this particular one.
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Post# 1191002 , Reply# 33   10/1/2023 at 00:35 (216 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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We be golden! Back together and ready for another 15 years of service if I might say so? |
Post# 1191003 , Reply# 34   10/1/2023 at 01:19 (216 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Warsh!
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Post# 1191004 , Reply# 35   10/1/2023 at 01:58 (216 days old) by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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DeliCat™ cycle
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Post# 1191007 , Reply# 36   10/1/2023 at 02:59 (216 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 1191012 , Reply# 37   10/1/2023 at 05:37 (216 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Nice job Steven, these machines are relatively easy to rebuild. If you go through them and correct the problem as you did.
The 24 inch Kenmore should last many more years, we have an original 1981 24 inch whirlpool direct drive in our museum that we completely rebuilt about 20 years ago. It recently experienced a timer failure and luckily we found one on eBay it’s a difficult timer to find. Only one complaint Steven please straighten the hinges on the 24 inch Kenmore. I can’t stand to see the lid hitting the enamel top like that when it’s in the open position , when the lid is open, it should stand nearly vertical with just a slight lean to the left. John and |
Post# 1194087 , Reply# 39   11/22/2023 at 19:00 by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Now upon looking further at the diagram, I realize I may have jumped the gun and ordered one of the lower support seals. |
Post# 1194088 , Reply# 40   11/22/2023 at 19:26 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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You have in your hand a new oil seal. One goes under the top bearing and two under the bottom bearing originally. This machine had 2 top water seals which you may still be able to get but whirlpool went to a single top triple lip seal for the top water seal above the bearing. I’m away from the part number at the moment but hopefully someone will come along in the meantime with the updated number.
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Post# 1194089 , Reply# 41   11/22/2023 at 19:30 by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Thanks Mel. Maybe if I can find all the oil and water seals, might as well just go ahead and replace them all for being nearly 40 years old. |
Post# 1194090 , Reply# 42   11/22/2023 at 20:43 by Jr2712 (Maracaibo-Zulia-Venezuela... )   |   | |
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Post# 1194092 , Reply# 43   11/22/2023 at 22:03 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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Interestingly enough, the center post seals on both the belt drive and direct drive are completely interchangeable, even the tub seal is the same. Whirlpool shortened the center post seal in 1978, unfortunately lots of the later belt drives (even some direct drives) had issues where the center post seals would fail, water could possibly make it’s way to the transmission and to quote Gordon: “Would spill it’s guts”. All Whirlpool machines built before 1978 (1977 and older) have the full height center post, usually the bearings and seals would last a good while before needing replacement.
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Post# 1194121 , Reply# 44   11/23/2023 at 11:30 by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Have you seen or heard from Gordon at all? Does he still post here? |
Post# 1194122 , Reply# 45   11/23/2023 at 12:37 by Jr2712 (Maracaibo-Zulia-Venezuela... )   |   | |
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Post# 1194123 , Reply# 46   11/23/2023 at 13:39 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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Gordon is still around, he’s just been busy with life. He commented on a thread regarding the timer on my Whirlpool, but haven’t seen him post for a good while. Tyler in NC talks to Gordon every now and again, even he was storing some machines of his at this house back in 2019 but even then, it’s been awhile since I’ve talked to Tyler on the phone since he’s been busy as well. Been almost a solid year since I’ve talked to anyone really.
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Post# 1194158 , Reply# 48   11/23/2023 at 20:16 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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I believe Gordon even worked for Sears in the 80’s and early 90’s from a few threads in the archives.
Btw, is your email working? I sent you a email as a reply, but I must have not gone through or something. Might be something on my end since I’ve had that happen before where I’ll have to send a email a few times to get through. Might be something with the server or the internet in some regions. |
Post# 1194587 , Reply# 49   12/2/2023 at 18:28 by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Would this work, and is there any place cheaper I could get it? Thanks
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Post# 1194598 , Reply# 50   12/2/2023 at 21:10 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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Post# 1194600 , Reply# 51   12/2/2023 at 21:22 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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Post# 1194627 , Reply# 52   12/3/2023 at 10:31 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Are the same size as belt drive washer, bearings and seals, I’ve never seen bad bearings in a direct drive washer. I have replaced the upper seal on occasion when doing a complete rebuild and lubricated the bearings.
I think this is what Sean was trying to say that they’re the same on both style whirlpool top load washers. John |
Post# 1202274 , Reply# 53   3/25/2024 at 23:20 by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Well, I decided to just buy the seal & bearing kit from searspartsdirect.com and they just came today. What sort of grease do you recommend to put inside the tub support shaft? |
Post# 1202285 , Reply# 54   3/26/2024 at 05:36 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Steven, you just use turban oil to lubricate the inside of the center post tube and the outside of the bearings when you install the bearings.
I would do some additional removal of rust inside the tube at the top of the center post, it Has to be completely smooth for the bearings to go in easily, and also keeps it from damaging the seals as they pushed in place. John |
Post# 1202297 , Reply# 55   3/26/2024 at 13:31 by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Thanks John! |
Post# 1202298 , Reply# 56   3/26/2024 at 13:50 by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Did you mean to say *turbine* oil? Just making sure haha. |
Post# 1202299 , Reply# 57   3/26/2024 at 13:53 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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Post# 1202301 , Reply# 58   3/26/2024 at 14:20 by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Thanks Sean. |
Post# 1202309 , Reply# 59   3/26/2024 at 16:41 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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You’re very welcome. Turbine oil/Zoom Spout is important when dealing with sleeve bearings on vintage washers and dryers, especially when dealing with the Maytag HOH dryers. A detergent oil has gumming agents which can cause the wicking material to be clogged with dirt and varnish which is bad news since it’ll mean the bearing won’t get proper lubrication. That’s what I use whenever I oil the main drum bearing on my HOH’s, or when I happen to do the annual cleaning a lubrication of the vintage GE Vortalex fan I have (will need to make a video of it at some point) or the vintage Windsor box fan I picked up a few weeks ago.
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Post# 1202370 , Reply# 60   3/27/2024 at 19:46 by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Would 30W-100 non-detergent oil work in this case? Since that's all I could find. |
Post# 1202371 , Reply# 61   3/27/2024 at 19:53 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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Since it’s non-detergent oil, should work fine despite being slightly heavier. May even want to put a small amount of grease on the spin-tube to prevent scoring the surfaces when installing it back into the center post.
I believe 3 in 1 oil in the blue can will work as well since it’s similar to Zoom Spout. |
Post# 1202414 , Reply# 62   3/28/2024 at 21:28 by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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New seals & bearings are in! Took a brass wire wheel lightly to the inside of the center-post shaft to rid the rust from it. Finally, now everything can go back and hopefully, no more leaks! |
Post# 1202415 , Reply# 63   3/28/2024 at 22:05 by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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Forgot to add photos lol
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Post# 1202428 , Reply# 65   3/29/2024 at 05:07 by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Post# 1202429 , Reply# 66   3/29/2024 at 05:41 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Nice job Steven. It’s amazing what you can do if you put your mind to it what did you use to press the bearings and seals into Place?
About a month or two ago, we brought that exact same washer back to the shop. We sold the customer new Maytag front load washer we saved the direct drive like yours. It was in such good shape. She was just one single person. It didn’t have that much use, it came with the house in 1984. This is such a nice slightly compact, simple washer that gets the job done, and much easier to work on than just about anything else out there if you do want to do a major repair. John |
Post# 1202459 , Reply# 68   3/29/2024 at 19:37 by DDFan92 (Boise ID)   |   | |
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I've now listed this machine in the shopper's square forum. Anyone who wants it and can pick up, make offer! |