Profile models.

$200 in Louisville, KY

lawrence

Melvin, there's a reason for that, they seldom work.

Hey those look neat! That timer dial brings me back to my childhood, but I've never seen electronic controls on a washer that old. I'd love to get this set to mess around with, but I'm currently working on getting a Kenmore Elite set I found for dirt cheap. If that ends up falling through then I'll look into getting this.

Yes, they are. Looks like they are from the late 90s, either 98 or 99. Still transmission driven, so at least its not a Hydrowave. My grandfather had a set just like this when I was a child, except with all mechanical controls.

Kenny and Bob already said what I was going to.  Filter Flo machines that are twice as old are still going strong.  These two must have seen very little use to still be viable.  The lesser model that American Home Shield replaced my mom's '74 Quiet Pack Kenmore with (a notch below the LK) sounded like a hand saw and was incredibly cheaply made.  The plastic tub could be batted around with little effort and the whole machine weighed maybe half of what the Kenmore did, if that.  Even the Kenmore's notorious '67 Snorge predecessor was built better than that GE, but just poorly engineered.

But on a fun note, I mistreated the hell out of that GE because 1) I loved that rare Kenmore model and it was fixable, and 2) I hated AHS for replacing a nearly TOL machine with a BOL by an inferior manufacturer, so the flimsy GE served as an ideal scapegoat.  Dave and I knew we were going to get a new FL pair with more capacity anyway, once we came to a decision on machines that would fit in a standard footprint.

When the guys came to install the Affinities in 2008 and haul away the GE and Snorge "Signature 2000 Series" or whatever gas dryer, they asked if the dryer worked and I told them it worked fine.  They didn't even bother to ask about the washer. 

stuftrock1:  ... but I've never seen electronic controls on a washer that old.

The fact this washer was plugged in through a grounding adapter doesn't speak in favor of longevity.

@Tolivac- Yes, that is indeed the persona non grata washer and dryer. Profile series which was TOL for GE-  ie lipstick on a pig. Only "good" thing about the washer is the dual action agi knock off.

I had the MOL version of that dryer. Cottons got way to hot and would cook the clothes, PP and delicate was lukewarm and you'd have to reset the timer because the auto dry would cutoff with the clothes still damp. GE dryers have some of the most complicated thermostatic control systems that despite what GE's literature says offers nothing of value other than complexity and longer drying times.

Perhaps the electronic card in this dryer can do better.  

@DaDoes: Do you know where your dryer was made? Can you share more specifics about it? If your dryer is electronically controlled that would certainly make a difference.

How do these differ from the Louisville design? 

Well the person I was trying to buy the Kenmore Elite from stopped responding and then removed the listing a day later. It was a matching Kenmore Elite DD set that looked to be in really nice condition for only $150! I'm disappointed I couldn't get it.

So now it looks like I'll be trying to get this set after all. 

No homeowner wittingly lifts the ground prong on an appliance unless to get around a routinely tripping AFCI or GFCI. 

All NRTL listed appliances sold in the US are tested to have a leakage current under 5 milliamps. 

If you understood electrical theory, or payed attention to pertinent details while working hands on, you wouldn't misinterpret my posts as being off topic.

TL;DR: That washer has an internal ground fault.

The outlet appears relatively new with patch work underneath it. I am making a guess the circuit has been brought up to code during a renovation- new 3 wire with AFCI/GFCI.

The grounding adapter is not the cause of poor durability or of said condition, rather a symptom.

Lifting the ground of a faulty appliance stops an GFCI, AFCI or even regular breaker from tripping at the dangerous expense of creating a 27 x 42 x 28 inch electrified cube.

Don't know about you, but in my world an appliance leaking copious current to ground does not indicate the machine is good.

See the first image where there is about 1 inch distance between the outlet and cord cap, in the second image the adapter is clearly visible if you zoom in.

Also notice the brown water line at the cold side of the inlet valve. If that water leak is internal or in the valve body itself it would make sense that wet harness connections inside the machine would leak electricity to ground.