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Thread Number: 94412
/ Tag: Vintage Dryers
Maytag HDE 806 Dryer no longer heating |
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Post# 1190752 , Reply# 1 9/27/2023 at 12:52 (219 days old) by stuftrock1  (Kentucky) |
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 Sounds like a broken heating element. Unfortunately, I don't know anything about HOH dryers. The one classic Maytag product I have zero experience with. I did a quick online search for a replacement heating element and wasn't able to find one. Hopefully someone else here will be able to find you one. | ||
| Post# 1190753 , Reply# 2 9/27/2023 at 13:03 (219 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
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| Post# 1190754 , Reply# 3 9/27/2023 at 13:19 (219 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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| Post# 1190757 , Reply# 4 9/27/2023 at 14:35 (219 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
It’s more than likely the high limit or cycling thermostat have failed. I’d try replacing the thermostats (won’t be much to loose plus you might as well replace them while the dryer is apart) since that is likely where the issue is. You’ll need a Supco L180-40 for the high limit and a cycling thermostat rated somewhere in the 125F range (130F will work as well). Hopefully this helps you get your dryer back up and running.
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Post# 1190766 , Reply# 5 9/27/2023 at 18:13 (219 days old) by dalangdon (Seattle, WA) |
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Thanks! I’ll be looking for those part, and almost certainly bugging you with questions when I’m ready to start working :-) This set is at our house in Eastern WA, so we’re not here all the time. | ||
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Post# 1190773 , Reply# 6 9/27/2023 at 22:29 (219 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Non-heating HOH electric dryer
As mentioned by others, make sure you have 240 V at the dryer you could’ve lost one leg of the power supply in the dryer will still run fine without heating. This is fairly common
Second most common thing is a bad heating element. These were very apt to have a foreign object fall in the element short out and caused the element to fail. There are at least 10 different things that will cause his dryer to run and not heat I would not waste your time buying any parts like thermostats, etc. I would not replace anything that is not necessary. New parts are often not as good as what the dryer was made from originally , I would take the dryer apart start investigating or find somebody that knows about halo of heat dryers and is willing to work on it. John | ||
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Post# 1190796 , Reply# 7 9/28/2023 at 12:08 (218 days old) by dalangdon (Seattle, WA) |
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Where does the 240 usually fail? I k ow how to check the outlet, and that will tell me that both it and the breakers are good. I assume the next stop is the terminal block. Anything past that to check? | ||
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Post# 1190901 , Reply# 8 9/29/2023 at 20:13 (217 days old) by turquoisedude (.) |
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 I am reluctant to offer advice anymore, but if the outlet is checking out OK, showing 120 and 240 volts with a multimeter, I'd say look for a broken connection at the terminal block, timer, or at the heating element itself. Connections can go bad over time.... If they look good, then test the heating element itself for continuity. | ||
| Post# 1193404 , Reply# 10 11/11/2023 at 12:50 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
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Post# 1194161 , Reply# 11 11/23/2023 at 21:47 by dalangdon (Seattle, WA) |
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Success! We spent mst of today working on this, and I’m happy to report that the dryer is once again up and running! The culprit ended up being the thermostat on top of the drum. | ||
| Post# 1194162 , Reply# 12 11/23/2023 at 23:03 by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
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Post# 1194198 , Reply# 14 11/27/2023 at 10:20 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Maytag, DE806 dryer heating issues
It’s normal for this machine to not completely dry clothing on the normal cycle. It was designed to leave the clothes, slightly damp most people use the permanent press cycle for everything if they wanted clothing really dry.
The new thermostat should’ve had instructions with it instructing what setting to be used depending on where the thermostat was used in the dryer, I’m assuming from what you said this is the thermostat at the front of the machine on top of the heater housing that you replaced and not the one on the rear blower housing. If it’s the one at the front, it should be set for around 180°F , if it’s the one at the rear, it should be set for about 150. John | ||
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Post# 1194201 , Reply# 15 11/27/2023 at 10:31 by dalangdon (Seattle, WA) |
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Thanks, John. There were no instructions in the package, and I don't remember numbers, just maybe letters? But it sounds like it may be working as intended. In any event, I don't want to go through another round of disassembling that beast :-) | ||
| Post# 1194223 , Reply# 16 11/27/2023 at 15:06 by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
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Post# 1194278 , Reply# 18 11/28/2023 at 07:56 by dalangdon (Seattle, WA) |
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Thanks! I read the maintenance manual for this dryer, and it didn't say anything about taking the top off, so we removed the whole cabinet, which is a major PITA. Is there a way to remove the top? | ||
| Post# 1194294 , Reply# 19 11/28/2023 at 11:21 by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
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There is a way to remove the top, there’s 2 screws that hold the porcelain top on the back of the cabinet, just remove those screws along with the 3 screws on the top of the rear panel. It’s a little tricky to remove the porcelain top, but it is possible. Won’t be able to remove it completely, just enough to move it out of the way to access the high limit thermostat. Be sure to replace it with a Supco L180-40 thermostat since that’s the closest thing you’ll find to the original 170F thermostat these originally came with. A 180F high limit thermostat is an improvement from the original since it’s a little less sensitive, but will cut the heat off if things get a little warm.
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