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Thread Number: 94545
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag Washer GA107A needs drive motor |
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| Post# 1192100 , Reply# 1 10/17/2023 at 20:47 (199 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
 Any one speed motor from 1960-2006 will work. The most common part #'s are 201805 and 201664. The modern part# is 12002351.
This is the cheapest motor I could find. Be aware that the plastic motor cover from your round motor will most likely NOT fit on top of this square motor. As long as there's no leaks, you won't have an issue. I've seen these motors without a cover get drenched in bleach due to a leak and still operate fine for many years like that but it's certainly not ideal.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/276043458846QUE... | ||
| Post# 1192122 , Reply# 2 10/18/2023 at 00:04 (199 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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GA107A that needs a drive motor. You sure it needs a new motor? They don't fail that often. | ||
Post# 1192127 , Reply# 3 10/18/2023 at 06:02 (199 days old) by combo52  (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Single speed, Maytag Drive motor
Yes, as Dan mentioned these are plentiful should not have any trouble finding one they’re interchangeable all the way back to the early 60s.
It is very possible you need a new motor as your current washer has the awful Westinghouse motor that Maytag used in some of their washers at that time period. How close to Cleveland are you? I’m sure my friend Bob would sell you a motor, and if you want to come to Beltsville, I’ll give you a motor. We get so many one speed motors for Maytag. I usually just throw them away. John | ||
| Post# 1192152 , Reply# 5 10/18/2023 at 15:07 (198 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
The A107 motor will work with your machine...
The only real difference between the GA107 and the A107 is that the GA107 is harvest gold, while the A107 is white. According to your serial number, yours was made in June of 1978. I've included a few excerpts from my service manual that covers wiring in the motor, as well as some other information you may find useful. For the current draw tests, it lists the specifications for a two-speed motor. Just ignore the low-speed specs for your machine, as it only runs in high speed. My manual is a 1990 copy, so the part numbers are all old, but can be cross-referenced for modern ones. Maytag used several different companies for their motors. Yours was made by Westinghouse, while the one shown in the manual was made by either Emerson or General Electric. I have also heard reports of Maytag washers using A.C. Delco motors. Each brand had different connections, but the motors were all interchangeable, provided that they were both single or dual speed. If you want to keep the washer around for the long haul, I would also advise that you lubricate the damper pads, tub bearing wick, and water pump bearing. I would also advise replacing the drive belts and motor carriage glides if they appear worn.
Hope this helps, Thatwasherguy. | ||
| Post# 1192163 , Reply# 6 10/18/2023 at 19:38 (198 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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So I rummaged through various schematics and here's what I found.
Maytag used green (#21) up through the 10 series washers and switched the color to blue (still #21) by the 12 series machines up until the demise of helical platform in 2006. I think there were too many green wires running around and Maytag didn't want people getting confused so they changed the color. That's my guess. The motor I posted will work, just connect your green wire to the blue (BU) terminal.
The round style motor you have can be disassembled. I have been inside Westinghouse, AC Delco, and several different GE round style motors and most of them (not all) have the motor start switch contacts out in the open where you can visually inspect them for wear, burned contacts, or welded contacts. It's worth taking it apart and checking the contacts since it may possible to file or unstick a contact if it's causing trouble. You have nothing to lose at this point since the motor isn't working properly, anyway. | ||
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Post# 1192187 , Reply# 7 10/19/2023 at 10:18 (198 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Westinghouse, laundry Appliance motors
I wouldn’t waste five minutes of my time trying to fix that motor, they weren’t great to begin with.
We always said in the field that the worst thing about Westinghouse washers and dryers were the fact that they had Westinghouse motors in them, both their front load washers and top load washers and dryers got so much better after WCI bought Westinghouse, and started putting GE motors in them. It was a shame that maytag did not have the clout that whirlpool and Frigidaire had, and had to end up, getting stuck with Westinghouse motors and other crappy parts, like the Robert Shaw water valves and timers, used in their dryers to say nothing of the bad Kingston timers that were used to many Maytag top load washers. John L | ||
| Post# 1192210 , Reply# 9 10/19/2023 at 15:22 (197 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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For cleaning contacts...
I usually just use some sandpaper, or some sort of polishing compound, depending on how badly burned they are, and how well they can be accessed. If you go the sandpaper route, make sure you don't use too coarse of a grit. Otherwise, the contacts may end up with excessive pitting, resulting in them not making a good connection.
Hope this helps, Thatwasherguy. | ||
| Post# 1192211 , Reply# 10 10/19/2023 at 15:43 (197 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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| Post# 1192212 , Reply# 11 10/19/2023 at 15:45 (197 days old) by oldmaytag (Columbus, OH (Westerville), USA) | ||
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I took the motor a part - Part 2 See first message above for context. I might have continued to waste my time, because maybe the motor is just worn out (not sure how to tell, except it doesn't work as expected), but I made the black/carbon contacts a bit shinier with fine sandpaper and brake cleaner. Is there anything else I should try or do before putting the motor back together? | ||
| Post# 1192214 , Reply# 12 10/19/2023 at 15:50 (197 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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| Post# 1192220 , Reply# 14 10/19/2023 at 17:08 (197 days old) by oldmaytag (Columbus, OH (Westerville), USA) | ||
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Super Oil and the wick This stuff (see pic) specifically mentions electric motors, so, unless I get some different input, I might try a little of that. I also included a picture of what I am assuming is the "wick". Let me know if I am correct. Thanks. Shawn | ||
| Post# 1192229 , Reply# 15 10/19/2023 at 18:30 (197 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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Super Oil | ||
| Post# 1192232 , Reply# 16 10/19/2023 at 19:27 (197 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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Post# 1192248 , Reply# 17 10/20/2023 at 07:10 (197 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Servicing an old style bolt together motor
Yes, the oil you have is just fine for the bearings and you can use as Dan mentioned either graphite or silicone lube or something on the actuator assembly on the rotor.
Hopefully you marked where the ends go with a scribe line or a sharpie Motors like this need to be reassembled in the exact same positions they came apart from. John L | ||
| Post# 1192302 , Reply# 19 10/20/2023 at 19:23 (196 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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Glad it worked out, I've brought back a few Maytag HOH motors, one SOH motor, and a couple of washer motors using these techniques. There isn't much to them and they're usually fixable as long as a winding isn't open or a bearing is completely trashed.
These motors do run warm, especially after a spin. This is perfectly normal operation.
Fantastic info from guys with real world experience. Nothing beats that.
Indeed! | ||
| Post# 1192348 , Reply# 20 10/21/2023 at 16:17 (195 days old) by Thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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Yay!! | ||
| Post# 1193410 , Reply# 23 11/11/2023 at 13:25 by Thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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What’s line voltage like in your area?
Maytag washers of this vintage had no start capacitor installed from the factory, which makes them susceptible to issues starting in areas prone to low voltage issues. Other issues can also cause the motor to stall, such as too much tension on the belt, or the use of a non-OEM belt. Maytag used special fabric-coated belts to act as a clutch, and many after market belts either have no fabric or don’t have enough. If none of these things are the culprit, then it sounds like your motor is, indeed, bad.
Hope this helps, Thatwasherguy. | ||
| Post# 1193414 , Reply# 24 11/11/2023 at 13:39 by Thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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Just saw your updated post… | ||
| Post# 1193417 , Reply# 25 11/11/2023 at 14:27 by oldmaytag (Columbus, OH (Westerville), USA) | ||
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No idea if it is over amping or what to do if it is Voltage seems good at 125 volts according to my meter. Not sure about the over-amping. I tried to look it up, but it told me not to do too many stimulants or meth. No worries, there, LOL. | ||
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Post# 1193423 , Reply# 26 11/11/2023 at 16:51 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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It’s time for another motor
As I said in a previous post, you’re just beating your head against the wall to try to fix a Westinghouse motor that’s 50 years old, you can add a start capacitor to any Maytag washer but if you have 125 V you don’t need it it’s good and low voltage situations where you have just barely over 110 V, for example.
I often used to add a start capacitor to Maytag washers because they did have trouble starting. If you want to pay for packing and shipping, I will give you a one speed motor for this machine. We literally throw them away regularly because there’s no market for them, the two speed motor is much more often needed. John | ||
| Post# 1193438 , Reply# 27 11/11/2023 at 22:19 by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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Over amping occurs whenever an electric motor draws more current than it is rated for. This leads to it overheating if it occurs for any serious length of time. To check amp draw, you can do a couple of things. The first is to buy a multimeter with an amp clamp built in. Clamp the amp clamp over one leg (either hot or neutral) of the wiring going to the motor. Your machine is basic enough that you could also purchase a kill-a-watt electric meter that measures current draw, and read it that way. If it is over amping without the belt being too tight or in bad shape, then it is likely bad.
Hope this helps, Thatwasherguy. | ||
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