Thread Number: 94587  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Whirlpool LSR8200EQ0 Intermittent Slow Spin/Burning Smell
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Post# 1192467   10/24/2023 at 12:57 (186 days old) by rb26 (Canada)        

Hi all. I have an older Whirlpool LSR8200EQ0 top load washer, it's developed a bit of an intermittent issue where the basket will sometimes spin slowly on the spin cycle and it emits a slight burning smell when this happens (it doesn't smell like electrical for sure). I'm thinking it's likely the clutch or basket drive, but it just seems odd that it only does this occasionally. Any ideas as to where I should look first? Thanks in advance!




Post# 1192469 , Reply# 1   10/24/2023 at 13:00 (186 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
I’d first check to make sure the belt is in good condition and tight.

Post# 1192470 , Reply# 2   10/24/2023 at 13:02 (186 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
Whoops disregard. Didn’t realize it was direct drive.

Post# 1192471 , Reply# 3   10/24/2023 at 13:31 (186 days old) by rb26 (Canada)        

It is direct drive, yes. There's no belt. I pulled the agitator out of it, the driveblock looks fine (not rounded in so far as I can see from the top). I pulled the transmission out, and the friction material on both the clutch and basket drive look fine. I'm a little puzzled. Is there something i should be looking at in more detail?

Post# 1192472 , Reply# 4   10/24/2023 at 14:05 (186 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
You should barely be able to move the clutch band with your hand. If you can move it easily it needs to be replaced.

Post# 1192497 , Reply# 5   10/24/2023 at 21:55 (186 days old) by rb26 (Canada)        

It seems fine. Both the clutch and basket drive seem to be working. The clutch on the transmission wont move without some decent force by hand. Only thing I can possibly see is that there's still some resistance when trying to turn the basket when I push the cam (on the basket drive) all the way over to disengage the brake. Is this normal? Anything in particular that might cause this if not normal? This might definitely cause a burning smell I'd think. Almost as if the machine is a car trying to do a burnout with the brakes on, but instead of shredding tires (spinning), it's shredding the clutch. Do I go for the basket drive assemby?

Post# 1192499 , Reply# 6   10/24/2023 at 22:04 (186 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
It’s hard to tell over the internet. I’ve only had to replace basket drives on direct drive machines either due to damage caused by water leaking past agitator top seal in basket drive or water leaking past the center post seal into the bearings.

Post# 1192500 , Reply# 7   10/24/2023 at 22:11 (186 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)        

Check to see if there is something caught between the inner and outer tub....maybe a sock or small article of clothing.

Post# 1192519 , Reply# 8   10/25/2023 at 07:40 (185 days old) by rb26 (Canada)        

I realize it's a little difficult to diagnose over the internet, but thanks for the help thus far! I tried getting the tub nut loose with regular tools, but it seems like it's on there pretty tight, so I've bought the spanner tool for it and will take it apart as soon as it shows up.

Post# 1192563 , Reply# 9   10/26/2023 at 08:00 (184 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky)        
Intermittant slow spin...

thatwasherguy's profile picture
I once saw a direct drive with a bad tub seal that was leaking water onto the clutch, causing it to have issues spinning, but it doesn't sound like that is happening to yours. Is it possible that the brake is getting stuck every now and then? As for getting the tub out, I would recommend soaking the tub nut in penetrating oil for an extended amount of time before removing it, as you may find that it is seized in place.
Hope this helps,
Thatwasherguy.



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