Thread Number: 94589  /  Tag: Modern Dishwashers
2010 Bosch DW trouble... 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 1192494   10/24/2023 at 21:22 (186 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        

machine has about a decade of easy usage : SHX68e05uc/23, fancy German made washer.
will not fill -no power applied to fill valve-when started,runs the drain and wash pumps for a bit then shuts off and beeps as if cycle finished. This has been a great dishwasher,hopefully easy problem to solve...




Post# 1192498 , Reply# 1   10/24/2023 at 22:00 (186 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

Does it display any fault codes?

The drain/wash pump running is normal and a part of a calibration process.

Fill valve will only be energised after that.

Post# 1192527 , Reply# 2   10/25/2023 at 10:12 (186 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
fault codes

 no fault codes displayed,but if they can be shown by pressing buttons in certain sequence i could check.

Post# 1192529 , Reply# 3   10/25/2023 at 10:18 (186 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

If I was at work I could check, but am on holiday for 2 weeks.


Usually, what can happen at that age, is the wash pump becoming hard to turn and the calibration erroring out.
That however usually throws an error code.



There are a number of errors that do not display an error code and just end the cycle.

Those however are usually quite specific and rare fault circumstances that only get documented in the service menu.

Given how these machines are designed, it - usually - is only between 2 components: The combined wash pump and heater or the main control unit.



Throwing parts at the issue however is expensive and not really efficient.

The repairs are fairly simple on these machines without Zeolite drying system.

Post# 1192568 , Reply# 4   10/26/2023 at 10:20 (185 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
going to recheck fill valve power

 when i checked power at the remote fill valve,a neon indicator lamp was used -i had assumed the valve was 120v,going to use a DVM this time incase valve power is lower voltage or DC.

Post# 1192571 , Reply# 5   10/26/2023 at 11:09 (185 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

As I said, if the calibration and self test fail for any reason, there is a slim chance the machine just ends the cycle with no fault code visible without ever energising the fill valve.

If you want to check the fill valve, your best bet is a multimeter and checking for resistance between the 2 connections.
Take of the wires, check connection to connection, reading should be a couple dozen or hundred ohms.

Check to ground for safety, resistance should be infinite.

Post# 1192673 , Reply# 6   10/28/2023 at 14:35 (182 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
no power to valve

 checked again ,no power at the valve-valve coil measures at 977 ohms:seems high,but probably DC powered. Float switch/pressure switch seems ok because machine will drain the sump if i fill it.

Post# 1192686 , Reply# 7   10/28/2023 at 20:34 (182 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture
977 ohms is about normal for inlet valve on most washing machines and dishwashers.

Post# 1193101 , Reply# 8   11/6/2023 at 02:31 by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

Hey!

If you got an E-Mail adress you are willing to share I can send you the documentation.

However, our software flaggs your model as potentially under recall due a fire risk.
If you haven't checked yet, do so here:
www.boschdishpowercord.co...




Reading out the error memory would be:
- Make sure no programm is running and switch machine off
- Locate the 3 closest buttons to the left of the display (see picture)
- Hold the inner 2 buttons down (B and C)
- Switch on
- Release buttons when "P0" appears
- Enter "P0" with the third button (C)

Cycle through the faults with C and B and write down all of them.

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Post# 1193122 , Reply# 9   11/6/2023 at 18:13 by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
update

 thanks for all that-error code access worked: got 17 and 24,i think the 17 is stored from when i started the dishwasher with water supply off to check the valve. E24 is drain error-does drain the machine right away when turned on with water dumped into sump,but does seem water is about 1.5" higher than usuall in well of sump where wash pump screen sits. Will mop all the water out of the sump and check some things out.Seems the potential fire risk is related to the power cord-will get ser.# of my machine and check that.

Post# 1193130 , Reply# 10   11/6/2023 at 20:47 by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        

no trouble with the drain as far as i can tell-pumps out strongly and sump levels normal last couple run attempts. Also during startup,will give a couple quick shots of fill water before running the pumps some more and then shutting off-earlier would not activate fill valve at any time.

Post# 1193174 , Reply# 11   11/7/2023 at 18:10 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)        
pump style

 What style of pumps does it have?

Post# 1193179 , Reply# 12   11/7/2023 at 18:45 by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        

seperate wash and drain pumps-both are inverter driven BLDC with no external moving parts-super quiet.

Post# 1193198 , Reply# 13   11/8/2023 at 03:44 by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

So, on the start up sequence.
Yous the US version without heat exchanger, so slightly different than the EU version, but I should still have that adapted version in mind.


The machine runs the drain pump until it sense the sump is empty plus a timed period.
If it senses water level isn't low enough, cycle will be ended with a drain fault code.
One of the 2 fault codes you mentioned links to a blocked drain pump - but that's not what your issue sounds like.

Then the machine runs the wash pump calibration. The wash pump is run at varying speeds for a couple seconds each.
If the calibration values are far out of range, cycle would be aborted with an error code.

Then the machine opens the water valve for a few seconds until the flow meter registers any impulses.
If the flow meter registers any impulses, the machine knows the water supply is on.
If not, the cycle is ended immediately with a fill error.
If not, the fill sequence should start.



Given you don't get the characteristical fault codes with these machines (a blocked drain pump, a wash pump fault or a no fill error), this could be one of the weirder errors.

The fill valve checks out fine from what you say by my estimation.

The flow sensor is only a 20$ part and might be worth a try.
However, if that doesn't help, the control module sould be my next guess - which is 230+$ part.
Checking all the wiring and connections is always cheap insurance.



If the service comes out for the recall anyway might be worth letting them just do that and while they are out ask them for any advice.
Along the lines of "I called for the recall and haven't used it since" or such.

Post# 1193265 , Reply# 14   11/9/2023 at 02:28 by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

Checked again in our service literature, and the US fault codes are somewhat different to the EU ones.

E17 is a water flow rate to high error - that would end the cycle with continuous staining, so that was probably just a random error.



E24 is a version of the dreaded circulation pump error.
That indicates the calibration routine sense water in the sump after the drain
Service manual recommends to check the no-return-valve for the drain pump, the drain pump for any blockages and - if that does not help - to exchange the wash pump.


Post# 1194657 , Reply# 15   12/3/2023 at 19:37 by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
problem found

 reply 3 was right on-the washpump motor bushings were badly worn and was binding.Got a solid decade of use out of a machine that was bought brand new,badly smashed in a shipping accident, for $10 : was just going to salvage parts,but got it straightened out enough to hold water and use :)


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