Thread Number: 94836  /  Tag: Vintage Dryers
57 GE dryer fix - temp switch
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Post# 1194554   12/2/2023 at 01:38 by Delco1946 (Oregon)        

Finally had time to look at why my dryer isn’t heating after the maiden trial. The heater wires all “short” and have continuity so I don’t think my heater is at fault. My timer seems to “open” when checking continuity and taking pressure off the timer knob. The circuit reads closed while I keep rotational pressure on it. Not sure if this resolves when power is passing thru it presumably to advance the timer. Either way, dealing with that later.

For now, I’ve turned my attention to the temp control which seems to reading 4000 ohms between the black and red leads- which at room temp should equal 0 ohms to allow current to pass unobstructed thru the heaters. Only when the temp sending bulbs heats enough is the heater circuit supposed to be broken by the temp switch , forcing current to pass thru a 4k ohm resister while the timer advances (orange and black circuit is completed. Eventually the resister warms enough that it resets the switch and current can pass thur the heaters unobstructed again (bypassing the resistor).

At room temp I measure 4k ohms between the red and black terminals suggesting the switch internals are not conducting correctly ( should read 0 until bellows expand due to hot enough heat in the drum). Once warmed and the bellows expand, it should complete the orange - black circuit and open the black - red circuit ( forcing current thru the resistor meanwhile). However while cool, the orange-black terminals have very low resistance, suggesting a problem with the switch internals ( assume should read open). Has anyone rebuilt this switch successfully? Mine has not one, but two sealed bulb sensors to control what basically looks like some sort of rocker switch - I am very nervous about taking this apart and damaging either sealed system.


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Post# 1194562 , Reply# 1   12/2/2023 at 10:09 by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        
WE4X274

swestoyz's profile picture
Would you believe that there is an NOS compensator switch on eBay?

Looks like the same switch was used from 1957-1961 upper end models with compensating drying.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274666914903QUE...


Post# 1194572 , Reply# 2   12/2/2023 at 12:46 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture
GE compensated, dry, dryer thermostat

Wow Ben, that’s amazing you found one of those. I would buy that in a minute I think that’s what you need for the dryer. That type of thermostat would be very difficult to repair if even possible.

John


Post# 1194581 , Reply# 3   12/2/2023 at 16:47 by Delco1946 (Oregon)        

Dammit. Sold. That looks like it.

Post# 1194582 , Reply# 4   12/2/2023 at 16:57 by Delco1946 (Oregon)        

I took a closer look, and that eBay listing looks like, but the numbers don’t match. Any idea of how problematic that is? I attached a pic of mine. Mine is labeled C11 6001 whereas the eBay listing is 6012.

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Post# 1194583 , Reply# 5   12/2/2023 at 17:25 by Delco1946 (Oregon)        
And while you’re on a roll….

Any leads on a door switch? Mine is missing. It looks simple enough to replicate but something period / model correct is always wonderful.

Thanks Ben


Post# 1194584 , Reply# 6   12/2/2023 at 17:34 by Delco1946 (Oregon)        

Attaching pics of the 1958 manual which actually gives part numbers. The 57 doesn’t appear to. I have a 57 IDA820P2. Either of the thermostat part numbers match the eBay listing 😞. Do I risk it for 75 dollars!?

I assume my switch which match the attached image but it gives no part numbers….


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Post# 1194585 , Reply# 7   12/2/2023 at 17:38 by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Chris - I pulled that part number off a later parts catalog from the 70’s, covering dryers from 57-77. If you look again you’ll see a second one on eBay. BUY it ASAP.

Post# 1194586 , Reply# 8   12/2/2023 at 18:05 by Delco1946 (Oregon)        
Bought it…

Was trying to haggle on the price but started getting antsy and just pulled the trigger. I never can seem to hold onto my money for long lol.

Post# 1194590 , Reply# 9   12/2/2023 at 19:43 by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Door switch - the original replacement was WE4X67. It used a threaded shaft with nuts to hold it to the panel, and was used on 1957-most 1961 models. However, beginning with the ‘61 dryers GE started using the cheaper push through switch with three terminals. You could try drilling out the hole to accommodate for the WE4X197 switch.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155881042988...

Ben


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Post# 1194599 , Reply# 10   12/2/2023 at 21:13 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
If you get lucky enough to find a part on eBay for a machine of that age you better jump on it. Odds of finding NOS parts that are specific to a machine are getting rare. It can be an expensive hobby. Believe me. Lol

Post# 1194626 , Reply# 11   12/3/2023 at 10:27 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Restoring, major appliances, expensive hobby

combo52's profile picture
If you think this is expensive, try doing restorations on vintage cars the same age it doesn’t cost 10% as much to do a washer and dryer as an old car from the same time period.

John


Post# 1194649 , Reply# 12   12/3/2023 at 17:38 by Delco1946 (Oregon)        

Oh I have those, too plus an historic house. No such things as a savings account 😂.

Post# 1196193 , Reply# 13   12/29/2023 at 00:44 by Delco1946 (Oregon)        
Enjoying the week off….

And finally getting caught up on a long list of projects. I removed the original temp switch and noticed for the replacement I bought on eBay, that dryer modifications are required ( drilling new holes into the door) that I was not excited about. I’m glad I was careful with the original capillaries because after some cleaning and adjusting it seems to be working again! I’m also getting the impression that someone has worked on this in the past and didn’t have the manual or just wasn’t too careful. Missing screws, wrong size replacement screws and messing with adjustments, etc. Using a hairdryer, I think the temp setting is at least in the right range to trip.

I was able to put the recently purchased item back in the box and will store it until possibly needed. I suspect once reassembled I will have a working dryer :). Now I’ll just need to keep searching for the door switch ( which also should mean I’ll have a working pilot light).


Post# 1196272 , Reply# 14   12/30/2023 at 10:50 by Ragnboneman (Ontario)        

looking at that switch
You could probably improvise a repair with parts from an electric heater.
Pretty common style of part even if the screws and mounts are different.

Speaking as an electrician, years ago I used to fix things.
Used to get a pat on the back for repairing things and sometimes improvising things.
Now that fall under what we call an management of change .

Alterations in electrical equipment require signing off from an engineer to ensure the safety and reliability.
( Usually a guy that graduated top of his class at MIT.... Mumbai institute of technology HA HA no joke foreign train engineers that may or may be as familiar with equipment as I am )

Joke, but serious for a moment.
If you modify things, or make significant changes your insurance might take issue.
The electrical equipment if installed in 1958 to 1958 codes is fine.
Move to some other place in a new installation and that may not be the case.
A new part that requires a retrofit must meet the specifications of the old parts.

That just sounds like common sense right?
But Insurance companies are in the business of connection your money and not paying out if they can.
They are not your friend and will use any excuse to not pay out a claim.
You also leave yourself open of liability if you fix something for someone else.



Post# 1196279 , Reply# 15   12/30/2023 at 15:51 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Home insurance and do it yourself repairs

combo52's profile picture
If this dryer ends up burning your house down, your insurance company has to pay for it unless they catch a problem and tell you to change it before it happens there’s nothing they can do about it they have to pay off on your insurance.

Of course, it’s extremely unlikely a closed dryer could cause a housefire it’s all in metal, as long as you use common sense and don’t keep your paper bag collection behind the dryer there’s just very little hazard.

It’s sort of the same as your auto insurance. If you go out and get drunk tonight and smash up your car, they have to pay they will probably cancel you, however.

But again the chance of any repair that you could make to this dryer creating a severe hazard is nil.

I assume you’re talking about the temperature control thermostat and not the heat switch the heat switches the switch up on the control panel.

John


Post# 1196301 , Reply# 16   12/31/2023 at 00:38 by Delco1946 (Oregon)        
No plans to burn my house down….

I reassembled the dryer,I even found a comparable switch at ace hardware ( I’ve started to go there instead of Home Depot for screws and random hardware- they have so much more!). I cobbled together some random parts so they switch wouldn’t protrude as much, and lightly filed the exiting hole on the door and voila,I have a door switch! Light didn’t come on but assuming that’s just cuz it’s burned out - I checked continuity thru the switch when open.

Maiden voyage wasn’t great. It seemed to be running with no heat. I moved the control dial and could hear electrical contacts sparking which usually isn’t a good sign. I then started to get a terribly burning smell ( Almost a dead animal /sulfur smell), all the while the dryer kept spinning. At first I thought the internal guts of the control must be burning up and causing the stink but after I turned off the dryer from the breaker panel and smelt the control dial and then stuck my head inside the drum and smell that it was much stronger inside the drum so perhaps it was the heater wires finally getting current and heating up after decades. No visible signs of fire or any melting/ damage.


Post# 1196317 , Reply# 17   12/31/2023 at 08:42 by turquoisedude (.)        
Email sent

turquoisedude's profile picture

Christopher, I sent you an email about some of the trials and tribulations I had with my 57 GE dryer. 


Post# 1196332 , Reply# 18   12/31/2023 at 15:03 by Delco1946 (Oregon)        

Systematically went thru each cycle and I think I’ve figured out what’s wrong. When circuits are completed, it heats, it spins on air etc. no weird smells anymore, must have been the initial heating of the wires after decades. My timer doesnt advance, and I have to hold it in order to complete electrical circuits to the heaters. Seem I have both worn contacts and probably a bad timer motor. Yippee.

If anyone has replaced these, rebuilt these, etc etc please let me know!



Post# 1196459 , Reply# 19   1/2/2024 at 21:15 by Delco1946 (Oregon)        

I took the timer dial apart and cleaned the contacts. Everything seems to spin freely. I reached out to a local person about rebuilding the electric timer motor itself, who declined. I’m assuming this is a matter of gummed up inner workings so I guess I will attempt to deconstruct/ degrease and then relubricate. If anyone has done this successfully please let me know if you have tips. Fingers crossed.

Also which way is the dial supposed to turn? I’ve been assuming clockwise.

Meanwhile I compounded the paint job ( as if it were a car) to take out some bad oxidation and discoloring. It still has scratches and is far from perfect but I may just leave that for now. I’m unsure as to how much “character” I want.


Post# 1196462 , Reply# 20   1/2/2024 at 22:17 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
1957 GE dryer electrical problems

combo52's profile picture
Does the timer motor still have continuity does it get slightly warm after it’s been on for 10 minutes.

If it still gets warm, it may just be gummed up as you mentioned, I drill a tiny hole into the gear area and just squirt some penetrating oil, and usually that will free up sticky old grease And will make them run again. If the motor windings are open, you really need to find another timer motor. Unless you want to try rewinding it.

I’m not sure which way the timer turns you can tell by looking 👀 at the dial obviously it turns from 30 minutes to zero for example it doesn’t matter which way you turn it when you’re setting it ,

Those old timers tend to have contact problems for the heat circuit. They weren’t real good timers whenever I’ve restored an old GE dryer or any other 240 V dryer. I add a heat relay so that no current is going through the timer Contacts and the thermostats and the motor centrifugal switch. These are all high failure items on old electric dryers. If you want to use the machine much, it’s wise to put in a power relay.



Hope that helps, happy New Year’s.


Post# 1196465 , Reply# 21   1/2/2024 at 23:04 by Delco1946 (Oregon)        

John - I measured about 1000 ohms resistance, so neither open or shorted. I hadn’t left it powered on for long ( wasn’t sure if polarity mattered but attempted to connect black to hot and white to neutral).

Regarding the dial, wow I feel dumb now lol. Great point. Clockwise is indeed correct ( wasn’t sure if anti clockwise would hurt the motor itself).

I get what you’re saying about changing where/ how the current passes thru the switches. I was wondering at how such a delicate switching mechanism handles the current associated with heaters in a 240 volt system. However I would not know where to begin to fabricate a new power relay system. Do you have example parts/schematics etc that you can point me to as an example? Many thanks.


Post# 1196526 , Reply# 22   1/4/2024 at 14:23 by Delco1946 (Oregon)        

I thought I’d post some pictures as I never found anything like this online anywhere. I took my timer motor apart rather accidentally by spraying brake cleaner thru the perforation on the back. I bet canned air would be the same thing but it “popped” the back off with out unnecessary prying that might damage the case. The internal gears are all metal save one which appears to be plastic they slide up on the shafts, so be careful if you turn over the motor as gears can slip off once lubricated, especially the first two.

I gently pried off the thin metal cover on the other side, which houses a circular metal piece that spins, and in my case, barely moved. It was so gummed up at the center shaft, which travels through the entire assembly to the gears. I sprayed brake cleaner on all the gears to clean them, and then sprayed some on the shaft that goes through the entire assembly, spinning the circular metal piece and gently moving it up and down along the access while spraying with brake cleaner so that it may travel along the shaft. It took 10 to 20 minutes of spraying, letting it sit and working it for to feel like it finally would spin smoothly. I then flushed with carb cleaner mostly to remove/ replace brake cleaner and repeated the process, as carb cleaner is gentler and less aggressive and damaging, especially to plastic parts (albeit much less effective). I the. Let sit and dry over night. PSA - do not apply heat or electricity that could intern cause heat to brake cleaner as you risk creating phosgene, which is deadly toxic.

The next day, I applied a very lightweight lubricant and reassembled it now works 😄.


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Post# 1196528 , Reply# 23   1/4/2024 at 15:46 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
Great news!

Post# 1196534 , Reply# 24   1/4/2024 at 20:21 by Delco1946 (Oregon)        
It’s alive!

Everything works altho based on my temp’ing I suspect my attempt to improve the timer’s electrical contacts failed which based on resistance readings was rather touchy to the heaters. The options seem to be either bending the metal tabs ( worried I might accidentally crack the wafer board) or building up the actual contact area somehow (solder?).

Only other annoyance is it’s noisier than ideal, probably due to rubber rollers sitting in one position for 40 years getting misshapen by the drum. Even my hodge podged door switch seems to coordinate.


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Post# 1196952 , Reply# 25   1/11/2024 at 23:41 by Delco1946 (Oregon)        
Painting help please

Dryer is up and running. Last task is to repair the paint damage on the display panel because the white stripe across the top has powdered off. Rinsed off easily and touched up the silver lettering. I got white latex paint and thinned it with water and applied it (let it pool evenly across the surface).

I’m not pleased with how it turned out and despite thinning it, light doesn’t really pass thru. Has anyone done something similar? The first attempt is still fresh so I think I’ll so it and just try and scrape it off. Is there a luminescent paint I should be using or what? Spray paint could be applied thinner but this isn’t a bright white color and sprays don’t have much color choices (which is why I want with latex).


Post# 1197191 , Reply# 26   1/15/2024 at 16:57 by Delco1946 (Oregon)        
Done!

Not totally in love with my white paint job, looks fine sans light but when lit up you can see imperfections. But I’ve tried both thinned latex and spray paint. The thinned latex almost looked better but I’m too tired to keep scrubbing it all off. It would need a sign painting professional I think.

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Post# 1197197 , Reply# 27   1/15/2024 at 18:26 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

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Looks great! Congrats


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