Thread Number: 94895
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Speed Queen top-loader towels smell bad |
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Post# 1195252   12/12/2023 at 09:50 by EEMac (Olympia, WA)   |   | |
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I have a 2017-era Speed Queen AWN432 top-loader. It's been mostly a good machine, but . . .
1. Clothes are getting stained over time. I don't remember that happening with my front-loader. If food falls on a shirt, there's a shadow of a stain left after washing. 2. Towels smell *bad*. This is especially sad since the first few loads in the new washer smelled SO CLEAN. I was literally burying my face in the laundry and saying, "I forgot how good this smells!" Now we make a point not to smell our towels. Info relevant to debugging: I use Bounce or Kirkland dryer sheets. Non-towel clothes smell okay coming out of the washer, but not "OMG this is great" like when the washer was new. I used Kirkland laundry detergent for about 15 years. I switched to Arm & Hammer this year to try to fix the smell problem. Towels smell better but not good. I ran a full-size empty wash with hot water and bleach to try to clean out the washer. It didn't help. The washer is used one day a week. The lid stays open when not in use. What do you guys think? Suggestions? |
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Post# 1195265 , Reply# 5   12/12/2023 at 13:18 by petek (Ontari ari ari O )   |   | |
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First get rid of the budget laundry detergent and get Tide or Persil upper brands. Are you overloading the washer and/or dryer.. That's what caused the issue with my partners clothes stinking to high heaven. I could smell it when they were drying, like old gym socks and shorts.. And add an extra rinse and don't overdo the detergent either, get the dosing right. More isn't always better.
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Post# 1195266 , Reply# 6   12/12/2023 at 13:30 by panasonicvac (Northern Utah)   |   | |
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When I was living up in Washington state and used two SQ top loaders, I never noticed that problem before even with just using Kirkland detergent alone. But I did however noticed it on my LG front loader even with warm and hot water wash. So this is what I've been doing that solved my problem. I've been adding OxiClean Odor Blasters on my darks and whites that cannot be bleached every time, that had been a huge game changer. And I've been adding Clorox on whites that can be bleached every time, not just once in a while anymore. I also used some Lysol Laundry Sanitizer before and I liked the scent that it left behind, reminds me of the commercial chemicals that janitors use. Vinegar helps break down the detergent during the rinse cycle.
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Post# 1195291 , Reply# 8   12/12/2023 at 22:20 by littlegreeny (Milwaukee, WI)   |   | |
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My experience with foul smelling towels was a build up of detergent residue. Have you tried washing the towels on the heavy duty cycle on hot with no detergent? I wouldn't be surprised if you see suds on both the wash and rinse.
Get your towels thoroughly rinsed and then switch to a high quality powder detergent such as Tide and only use 1 or 2 tablespoons (yes that's enough) for your towels. Use the heavy duty cycle on hot. Good luck! |
Post# 1195292 , Reply# 9   12/12/2023 at 23:19 by EEMac (Olympia, WA)   |   | |
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> Do they smell when dry, or only after they’ve been used once or twice?
They smell immediately after washing, and continuously afterwards. I just tried the "Persil Proclean + many rinses" approach. The towels smell okay instead of bad. That's an improvement! I'll plan on an extra spray rinse in the future, see how things go. Thanks all for the help. |
Post# 1195301 , Reply# 10   12/13/2023 at 05:25 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Lots of good advice, but this is the basic problem with using a top load washer. You have to use a lot of good detergent and a lot of hot water to get things as clean as you get them in the front load washer if you’ve been used to using a front loader, you’re gonna have to more than double your detergent usage, also skip the cheaper brands like arm and hamme.
I still use my top load washers on occasion, but I always use the wash water too or even three times. It’s just too big and investment in water, heating and detergent, the top loader concept was really meant to be used in wringer washers where you used the water over and over once you built up a good washing solution. You basically cannot use too much detergent, and there is no such thing as detergent buildup, the amount of detergent left in a load of clothing is never greater than the detergent concentration in the last rinse that they were rinsed in, detergent, dissolves easily, and water, so it can’t build up it only ever be as strong as the last rinse. Liquid chlorine bleach is also a very effective way to be absolutely sure that there is no odor left in towels, sheets, etc.. I always use a small amount of liquid chlorine bleach near the end of the wash cycle in light colored towels, etc. I actually left my white sheets closed in my front load Speed Queen washer for four weeks one time when I was in Australia, open, the door, took them out. They smelled absolutely fresh and wonderful. You shouldn’t have anything growing in your clothing. If you do use a lot of detergent, use an extra rinse and you’ll have virtually nil amounts of detergent left in the clothing. It’s not really possible for the belts to slip during agitation on a Speed clean top load washer, so that’s not the problem. |
Post# 1195306 , Reply# 11   12/13/2023 at 08:13 by littlegreeny (Milwaukee, WI)   |   | |
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This is a topic I completely disagree with John on. You can easily use too much detergent, I have experienced this first hand, especially when I had a top loader. Excess detergent will stick to laundry and in extreme cases, cause a sticky or waxy soap scum-type buildup in your clothes. Eventually this causes biofilm to grow and those bad odors to develop.
Why do you think so many detergents have odor release technology? It's just a strong perfume to cover up that funk that many folks have in their laundry. You could try adding a couple of tablespoons of borax to your loads and see if that helps. |
Post# 1195310 , Reply# 13   12/13/2023 at 10:21 by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)   |   | |
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I hope you find the source. I think there are multiple factors which could cause this... cold water, overloading, not using bleach or at least hot water and sometimes I think if the washers are in an area that isn't climate controlled that can cause it too..
I do not think it's using bargain detergent...cuz I've used that for YEARS with no issues...but I also use bleach with whites and never wash in cold water. Aren't speed queens outer tub stainless steel? Maybe it IS the agitator. |
Post# 1195313 , Reply# 14   12/13/2023 at 10:39 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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A search finds some reports that a primary cause of biofilm in washing machines is the combination nowadays of decreased temperatures and elimination of the stronger, caustic detergent ingredients that were common in the past along with consumers shying away from chlorine bleach. One paper says that the recommended detergent concentration (referenced as 7 g l−1, presumably per the product usage instructions?) of whatever type of detergent was involved isn't sufficient to destroy biofilm. A dosage range of 0.0007–7 g was tested. The paper is behind a paywall for full access. Another lab compared that the amount of biofilm coming into the washer (presumably via the water supply and what's already on the fabrics?) was equal to what remains or accumulates in the machine after the typical washing process is complete. |
Post# 1195353 , Reply# 16   12/14/2023 at 01:49 by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)   |   | |
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I've ruined colors on towels in the past with LCB. The colors remained uniform, not blotchy or spotted...but they were a really super faded ugly color and you could tell they had been bleached... and this was only with a little LCB. In fact, I still have two faded bleached beige towels...I also have a set of dark navy blue bed sheets that it did the same thing....but I don't care about the sheets as long as they're clean.
There have been a couple of times in the past where I had a really gross load that I was prepared to throw away...and used LCB and the hottest water and the LCB didn't phase those loads of mixed colors...so I don't know. |
Post# 1195388 , Reply# 18   12/14/2023 at 17:00 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)   |   | |
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I'd stay away from normal eco and stick to heavy duty. |
Post# 1195389 , Reply# 19   12/14/2023 at 17:18 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)   |   | |
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I am so sick of that stupid low speed spin on the normal cycle. And the early spray rinse gets to me. That's a contributing factor of clothes not being spun and rinsed out. |
Post# 1195408 , Reply# 22   12/14/2023 at 23:45 by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)   |   | |
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Post# 1195417 , Reply# 23   12/15/2023 at 06:51 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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I’ve never seen that happen it certainly not likely, a completely completely or severely clogged dryer vent might make the smell, more noticeable, if hot things tumble in a dryer for two hours, and don’t dry, but a clogged vent will not create the smell in the clothing. The clothing would already have to be very contaminated.
I suggested for years that people try the is it really clean test by taking a clean washcloth out of their linen closet, making it damp, putting it in a Ziploc bag and putting it back in the linen closet for a week, and if it smells bad after a week or two, it wasn’t clean to begin with, if it’s still just damp and smells fresh you’re doing a good job with your laundry. John |
Post# 1195456 , Reply# 25   12/16/2023 at 14:00 by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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The whole indexing tub on a brand new washer always put me off on Speed Queen top loading washers. Some have to wait 6 months to year, if not more, for the tub to stop indexing to obtain maximum cleaning performance. Total bullshit design/setup in my opinion, but that's the way it's....and one the many reasons I'll never buy one. It's really sad how top loading washers have gone to hell in a hand basket.
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Post# 1195803 , Reply# 27   12/21/2023 at 20:52 by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)   |   | |
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Post# 1195857 , Reply# 28   12/22/2023 at 18:07 by petek (Ontari ari ari O )   |   | |
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Post# 1195863 , Reply# 29   12/22/2023 at 20:04 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 1195875 , Reply# 30   12/23/2023 at 00:37 by speedqueen (Metro-Detroit)   |   | |
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The amount of people online, not usually here, that suggest using a tiny amount of detergent(**cough renduh on tiktok) is causing lots of problems.
The manufacturers suggestions are typically good guidelines, despite people insisting that they're only to sell detergent. A lot of factors play into detergent usage requirements, dilution ratio is certainly one, you'll need more detergent for the same load in a standard top load vs a front load as I've observed comparing my AWN432 SQ to a 1960s Westinghouse front load. Another important factor is soil load or how dirty the clothes are, both particulate dirt like dust, mud and oily dirt such as, body oil, petroleum, and kitchen grease. If the washer starts and within a minute all the suds collapse,you need more detergent, all of the surfactants have bonded to the dirt and no more cleaning can or will occur. Even low sudsing detergents will have a little suds to use as a guide. If one is still unsure, feel the water, it should feel slippery not just like plain water. Water hardness is another issue, where I'm staying with friends in West Virginia they have even softer water than I had in Detroit, as such we use about 1/2 to 2/3 the amount of detergent for similar loads. This has an effect on FL vs TL too, as there are more minerals to bond to if there is more water. |
Post# 1195889 , Reply# 31   12/23/2023 at 08:28 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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I’ve heard the same crap for 30 years. The repairman told me only to use a tiny bit of detergent, but that’s what ruins, the machines etc. etc..
It’s too bad that so few people have had chemistry physics etc. anymore in this country there is just no common sense, it’s always better to air on the side of using too much detergent rather than too little too little will not get the job done and will damage the machine too much is not gonna hurt anything even a few suds in the cycle or in the sink when the washer is done is not a bad sign detergent does not hurt the machine or people, detergent manufactures, would not get away with using things that people are generally allergic to. It’s mostly in their head if they think they are. Of all the machines washing machines and dishwashers have used I have never had any buildup in any of them. I have never cleaned any of them. It’s ridiculous to think that a machine that’s cleaning your dishes is going to need cleaning itself, this was one of the promises made when automatic washers and dishwashers came out that they not only cleaned the items that went in them, but they kept themselves spotlessly, clean if used properly and they still to do this. John |
Post# 1195925 , Reply# 32   12/23/2023 at 18:25 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)   |   | |
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I agree with Richard. Besides, how will anything get cleaned that is smelly or just plain stained and dirty? Somebody tell me. |
Post# 1195926 , Reply# 33   12/23/2023 at 18:29 by BlockEight88 (Hobart, IN)   |   | |
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Post# 1196535 , Reply# 34   1/4/2024 at 21:26 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)   |   | |
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I completely agree with speedqueen. This low detergent fad is so stupid! You can't clean anything with only an ounce! |
Post# 1196555 , Reply# 35   1/5/2024 at 11:56 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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“The amount of people online, not usually here, that suggest using a tiny amount of detergent(**cough renduh on TikTok) is causing lots of problems.
Yeah, this is why I don’t even bother with TikTok, sometimes people will give out the most dubious advice along with spreading lots of misinformation. Instagram reels and YouTube shorts is like that, has been like that for some time now. The same people who don’t use enough detergent are the same exact people who fall for 10,000 mile oil changes, I guarantee it. Then, they start whining and kvetching that their engine is burning lots of oil along with transmission slipping, brakes spongy from not changing the fluids etc etc. Of course, people will claim it’s a waste of money to do certain things regardless of mileage, time etc, but it all boils down to preventative maintenance and measures. Better to change the oil every 3,000 to 4,000 miles than to let it go which will cause major problems down the road. Not taking this off the tracks, just using it as an example. |