Thread Number: 95536  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Avocado Maytag Washer KA108 + Matching Dryer
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Post# 1201972   3/21/2024 at 13:33 by overtones (Wisconsin)        

I have a 1970s Maytag Avocado green KA108 and it's matching dryer. They are the one and only set of washer/dryer that have ever been in the house since the main floor laundry was added-on in the late 70s.

They still were running great as of two weeks ago, when suddenly the washer started banging around and leaking during the spin cycle. I'm assuming the bearing and seal are shot.

When I pulled the agitator, I found almost a solid brick of calcification around the top of the shaft and collar. I scraped away everything I could, and have spent 8 days now trying everything I can think of to get that collar to come loose. I have the correct spanner wrench, I've tried penetrating oil products, a bit of heat(afraid to go to hard on the heat), and banging on the spanner wrench forever. I'm afraid to cut it and ruin the threads on the shaft.

That thing will NOT budge(and yes I realize which way it is threaded).

I'm out of ideas. Laundry is piling up. I'd love to save them, but it may be the end.


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Post# 1201980 , Reply# 1   3/21/2024 at 15:51 by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
Whether the stem seal/boot/tub bearing is the problem or not, it's time to change it at this point.

The new stem boot and seal should include a tub nut. You can cut the old one off, some of repairmen would do that instead using the wrench as it's quicker.

I would take a good look at the damper pads, too, along with the motor carriage rollers. Clean and re-lube the tracks.


Post# 1201981 , Reply# 2   3/21/2024 at 16:06 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture
First thing to do is take the front off the machine and see where it’s leaking taking the tub mounting nut off may not even be necessary.

Something fairly simple could’ve happened such as the hose that goes from the outer tub to the pump may have come off and dumped water out and gotten on the damper, causing it to jump around. It may be a fairly simple fix. It may also be in bad shape. From the corrosion under the agitator, it’s likely the agitator shaft is in bad shape. If you manage to get that all apart, you’re gonna need a new mailing stem kit you may need a new tub bearing you’ll most definitely need a new or replacement transmission you’re in for a pretty big job if you take that apart.

Again, find out what caused the leak in the banging.

John





Post# 1201984 , Reply# 3   3/21/2024 at 16:09 by overtones (Wisconsin)        

Yeah,I've come to accept that I'm going to have to try to cut it.

I know for a fact the damper pads aren't in good shape, and those will get replaced.

Any recommendations on a good quality aftermarket stem kit that will fit? You can still get NOS OEM bearing kits floating around, but the 6-2095720 stem kit has been discontinued by Whirlpool, so it's pretty much aftermarket only. You see a lot of people complaining that some of the aftermarket kits are not getting a good watertight seal.


Post# 1201991 , Reply# 4   3/21/2024 at 16:59 by qsd-dan (West)        

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6-2095720 aftermarket seems to be hit or miss. Works for some, not for others.

I'd make sure the damper has not been damaged, that will be an expensive replacement since they're only around in the used market and prices are jacked up to the moon.

Between the rusty stem/boot seal, agitator shaft, and possible damper replacement, you may be in over your head. It can be fixed but it'll cost more than a new washer. It's up to you if it's worth the cost and effort.


Post# 1201994 , Reply# 5   3/21/2024 at 17:12 by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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Find another 08 or newer series Maytag standard capacity machine, that works. Change the cabinets.


Post# 1201995 , Reply# 6   3/21/2024 at 17:17 by qsd-dan (West)        

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"Find another 08 or newer series Maytag standard capacity machine, that works."

Eh, I'd look for a 06-12 series washer with the larger tub and swap the whole tub/transmission/damper assembly over as one piece, cut the tub to pump hose shorter to fit (or better yet, replace that old hose with a new one). Adjust the water level switch for the higher 19 gallon fill (rather than the 16 gallon fill) and have yourself some extra washing capacity.

Just my take.


Post# 1201996 , Reply# 7   3/21/2024 at 17:19 by Ragnboneman (Ontario)        

Maytag damper pads.

What are they made of and how hard could it be to improvise a replacement pad and adhesive?



Post# 1201997 , Reply# 8   3/21/2024 at 17:25 by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
There's no way to improve the design and there's nothing wrong with it, they just need to be lubed every 20 years or so. If they're kept properly lubed, they never wear out.

Post# 1202004 , Reply# 9   3/21/2024 at 18:31 by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
That thing will NOT budge

Ou faa.. I've seen some badly corroded mounting stems but that one takes the cake...

Post# 1202005 , Reply# 10   3/21/2024 at 18:43 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        

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Simply by transferring a different cabinet to a different machine is basically rebuilding a machine ‘the lazy way’.

Post# 1202008 , Reply# 11   3/21/2024 at 19:07 by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
No matter what machine/guts takes the place of this one, it still needs to have the stem/boot seal replaced, probably tub bearing (might as well do it while it's still available) damper pads re-lube or replaced, motor carriage cleaned, re-lubed, rollers replaced with glides or another set of rollers.

I would be cracking the transmission open and at least replacing the oil and inspecting the Delrin pinion gear. Replace the lower o-ring if it's a pre-June 1986 model. Other items may be needed such as a new brake package if the tub indexes, cover seal if it looks worn, tub to pump hose (this will cause a flood if it breaks). Not a bad idea to replace the injector assembly with the updated one to prevent future water leaks.


Post# 1202009 , Reply# 12   3/21/2024 at 19:12 by overtones (Wisconsin)        

So I had the top off before, but I just took out the plumbing scope and went fishing around down the sides and in between the basins. It looks like the machine is irrecoverable. Made it 50 years, but that's all she wrote for the internals. The cabinets are still in amazing shape. There is no external visible rust or damage to the enamel anywhere, and only a small amount around the lid lips on the washer. All the chrome is nearly new looking.

-I fished the camera in between the two basins, and the three rubber gaskets on the inside bolt heads of the outer basin are rotted out. Two are leaking, one slowly, one badly, so the inner drum has to come out just to fix that.

-The damper pads are not gone, but they need replacing soon-ish at the very least.

-Several spots of the top edge of the outer drum basin are rusted completely through where it meets the rubber gasket, and it is leaking. The outer basin is not capable of forming a seal any longer.

-Running the machine with the cover off, it still bangs badly, and I think it is the bearing. It does not appear to be coming from the damper pad area and the basin is not banging against the side nor are there any loose parts anywhere I can see.

The transmission appears to be running smoothly and quietly, and the motor is good(and appears to be not original).

I'm just west of Milwaukee. The dryer runs perfectly still although I have not taken it apart to examine it. What do you think my chances are of finding someone who would want these to keep them out of the landfill? I can sell the dryer for a few bucks as it still works but....people who are willing to go to the lengths to swap the cabinet internals are not coming out of the woodwork. In another lifetime I'd think about scavenging parts myself but I'm in the middle of remodeling the house I have other fish to fry in life and no garage space to spare.


Post# 1202010 , Reply# 13   3/21/2024 at 19:27 by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        

TOL A806 on Facebooks:

www.facebook.com/marketpl...

This will get you back in business and the avocado cabinet could be swapped over later on.


Post# 1202017 , Reply# 14   3/21/2024 at 20:14 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
Ad says the A806 is about 12 years old. Lol!

There is definitely someone in your area that would be interested in this set. Advertise them for $200 and accept the offer that suits you knowing the washer needs repair.


Post# 1202112 , Reply# 15   3/22/2024 at 17:54 by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

 

"Simply by transferring a different cabinet to a different machine is basically rebuilding a machine ‘the lazy way’."

That may be....but not everyone has the time, knowledge, or tools. to completely rebuild a washer. If that's being "lazy", then call me lazy.


Post# 1202174 , Reply# 16   3/23/2024 at 17:17 by overtones (Wisconsin)        

Well so update:

I went and bought a new washing machine, to go with a brand new gas dryer I had hanging out still in the box from a previous move(long story).

I'm going to renovate the laundry room, put the new pair in, and I talked the wife into finding some storage space for the Maytags in the basement. I haven't decided what to do yet, but I'll probably store them while keeping an eye out for a cheap donor washer for an internal swap. If push eventually comes to shove I'll sell them, but for now they will go into hibernation. Hopefully by the time my modern washer inevitably dies they'll be ready to go back into service.


Post# 1202199 , Reply# 17   3/24/2024 at 10:48 by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

good plan!



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