Gizmo here...
Hi, it's late so I will be brief. I will come back in next day or two for more detail if needed.
The brake is a spring steel band that grips around the aluminium gearbox casing. A flat strip of strong spring steel that grips the outer edge of the gearbox, through some sort of friction material. (I forget what.) If you follow from the solenoid, it pulls on that plastic pivoting arm, which has a spring around the centre pivot point. The other end of that plastic arm is a steel piece goes in behind the drive pulley in the first photo. (Actually above the drive pulley in working position.) Follow that arm in towards the gearbox and you should see the brake band which curves around the gearbox, and the end of it bends 90 degrees and sticks out from the gearbox, and should be gripped by the end of that brake arm - from memory the arm terminates in two "fingers" and the brake band should be gripped between the two fingers.
There is another part of that pivoting brake arm, this time plastic, which operates the clutch - to either lock the pulley to the gearbox casing for spin (when the brake is released) or to disengage the drive pulley from the gearbox casing (when the brake is applied), allowing the gearbox reduction drive to rotate the agitator (for wash). I think it's about 4 or 5 to 1 reduction - 4 or 5 turns of the input pulley to 1 turn of the agitator.
The clutch is a wire spring that wraps around an upper and lower shaft, gripping them both if it is allowed to (and this making them turn together as one) or, if the spring is slightly unwound, it loses its grip on the lower shaft and the two halves can rotate independently of each other. The unwinding is achieved by that plastic pointy finger on the brake arm sticking into the spokes of a plastic casing around the clutch spring, and rotating the plastic casing slightly to rotate one end of the clutch spring and make it release. The plastic "spokes" I mentioned look like white plastic gear teeth.
If you have a problem (and it might be fine) then I'd suspect the clutch is binding (not releasing fully) for wash. This could be:
- wear of the tip of plastic finger that pokes into the plastic clutch casing
- wear of the clutch spring (the tip that engages into the plastic casing around it can break off)
- clutch spring deformed or needing lube
- that pivot arm sticking/binding
- maybe wear of the gearbox, or water in the gearbox???
Thanks Nathan for your kind words, but I'm no expert in these machines. Basically, I don't like them. They were an Australian copy of the Japanese machines that were flooding into Australia at the time, and I don't think they were a great copy. I much prefer the Hoover Premier of the time, also a copy of Japanese technology, but better executed. The Hoover had a 7 to 1 reduction gearbox with nylon gears (the Simpson had steel gears and I think about 4:1) and the Hoover seemed much more reliable.
If you can post video of the wash action, we can get an idea if it is normal or misbehaving.
Eating capacitors might be high supply voltage - have you checked your voltage at home? What is the rated voltage of the capacitors? From vague memory they should be rated to cope with over 400 volts??
The motors are indeed permanent split capacitor motors - there is no start winding, just two run windings, one gets its power direct from the supply and the other winding gets fed through the capacitor, swapping which winding is fed by the capacitor reverses direction of the motor.
Someone with more expertise here might have an opinion on whether overloading the motor (due to clutch faults, transmission faults, stiff bearings, whatever) might cause capacitor failures??
First think I would check - WITH POWER DISCONNECTED - with the brake solenoid released (brake is holding the transmission) try turning the pulley a few turns one way, then a few turns the other way. It should feel the same either way. Try it a few times. If it turns easily one way but it stiff or hard to turn the other way, I reckon you have a clutch problem.
Hmmm. I said I'd be brief...