Thread Number: 50184
Late 60s-early70s GE 40" range - $50.00 - Altamont, NY
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Post# 724086   12/31/2013 at 11:58 (3,755 days old) by ken (NYS)        

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Post# 724088 , Reply# 1   12/31/2013 at 12:03 (3,755 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Looks Like Harvest!

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You probably have the correct time frame for this range; this was the period that GE was transitioning from pushbuttons to rotary controls. Sadly, GE's catalogs of the period do not show the 40-inchers available, so an exact date would depend on knowing a serial number.

The photo isn't the greatest, making it a little hard to tell if it's shaded Harvest or unshaded Harvest. The unshaded version would put it later in the decade.

Post# 724117 , Reply# 2   12/31/2013 at 16:00 (3,755 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        
oh i like this G.E. stove....

hippiedoll's profile picture
it has the knobs for the burners, instead of the push buttons. this is BEAUTIFUL and i do like that color, i think it would match my maytag pretty good. but new york is so far away!!!

too bad this wasn't in tucson or even phoenix :o(
oh well....


thanks for sharing this post. i did enjoy seeing the picture of it. i wonder if it's the "self-cleaning" oven. we have a coppertone double oven that is a G.E. "self-cleaning" oven. but i can't get the levers to latch over so that i can "self-clean" them. i'm guessing cuz they are so old??? but they do work!! ;o)

Post# 724118 , Reply# 3   12/31/2013 at 16:02 (3,755 days old) by CircleW (NE Cincinnati OH area)        
As Sandy says,

The consumer catalogs did not list the 40" models this late; however, I remember the local GE dealer having a 3-ring binder that had the catalog spec sheets for every GE product made. It was pretty thick.

Post# 724132 , Reply# 4   12/31/2013 at 16:54 (3,755 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        

danemodsandy's profile picture
If you will look carefully at the chrome handle for the big oven, you will see that there is a knob sticking out of the front of the range just above it.

That knob is the knob of the latch lever that locks the oven door during P*7 self-cleaning. That means this range has the self-cleaning feature, though finding whether it still works or not would take an in-person inspection.

You're beginning to find out about one of the frustrations of this hobby - very often, the very appliance you dream of owning is too far away. Certain appliances really require that in-person inspection I just mentioned, and shipping costs a fortune.

You just have to keep looking in your area, and you have to accept that there will be some frustration for a while. Trust me, someone out there has found out that their dream appliance is in Tucson - and they're too far away to afford the shipping. It's just the way it is.

Post# 724148 , Reply# 5   12/31/2013 at 17:19 (3,755 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Christina, Are you pushing the latch release button in as you try to move the lever?

Post# 724177 , Reply# 6   12/31/2013 at 19:45 (3,755 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Also, Christina:

danemodsandy's profile picture
If you're having trouble moving your latch levers, I wonder -

Does your oven have windows in the doors?

If it does, you may have the window shields found on most earlier GE ovens with P*7 self-cleaning. The window shields are metal grates inside the oven door that slide up and down to protect the outer window from getting too hot during cleaning. Since your oven is Coppertone, it is almost certainly old enough to have this feature.

If you will open your oven door, look at the inside of the door, just outside the woven Fiberglas gasket that seals the door during self-cleaning. You may see two silvery metal tabs - one on the left side of the window opening, one on the right. If you do, grasp them both at the same time and slide them UPWARD (toward you, when the oven door is open); you will see the window shield move into place between the inner and outer panes of the window. Slide it upward until it completely covers the window.

Doing this also releases a lock on the door that prevents the levers from being moved until the shield is correctly in place. GE was very careful to make P*7 very safe to use; they put a lot of safety features into the design. This is a feature that keeps the outer glass from getting hot enough to burn someone. Most self-cleaning ovens will burn the bejabbers out of you if you brush up against the glass during self-cleaning. An early P*7 oven's door will be hot, but you won't end up in the E.R.

If your problem actually was the window shields not being raised, you should be able to move your oven door latches once they are raised. When you are through running a self-cleaning cycle, you move the tabs again, pushing them away from you, to lower the shields.

If you have never been able to use the P*7 feature on your oven, I highly recommend the 1966 GE Range Owner's Manual on Automatic Ephemera. It's an easy, inexpensive download, and it will give you complete instructions on how to use your self-cleaning feature.

Post# 724187 , Reply# 7   12/31/2013 at 20:38 (3,755 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        

hippiedoll's profile picture
thank you for the step by step instructions.

i actually did the steps you described, which i had done them before too, even pushing in the "latch release" button while i tried to slide the lever over to lock position. cuz there are some instructions on the inside of the oven door. but i'm thinking, i wonder if i did they "out of sequence" or something??? cuz i did the steps the way you explained them and guess what??!!??......

i did get the latch to lock on the top oven. but the bottom oven is one stubborn son of a gun!!! and the thing is that we use the bottom oven cuz it works better. the top oven works too but doesn't seem to reach the right temperature. so, we only use the bottom oven. and that's the one that i can't get the latch to lock on!! and i've pushed the "latch release" button and the oven makes a low "buzz" sound. but i did get the top oven's latch to slide over. i just can't get the bottom oven's latch to slide over. and when i try to slide the latch (with the oven door open) i do see 2 flat metal hooks come out of the slot above the oven. but i just can't get it to work on the bottom oven???

thank you so much. i think i even twisted my darned back trying to move the bottom oven's lever over (while pushing in the "latch release" button, up on the top oven). but i sure was surprised when i easily latched the top oven. i just can't understand why the bottom oven's latch won't work???

one thing i did find that i thought might effect it was that there are 2 screws on the inside of the oven door, up towards the top corners of the door. the ones on the bottom oven door; one needed tightening, and the other one was 1/2 way out). so i tightened both screws on the bottom oven door. and the top oven door's screws were already tight. i thought, maybe the loose screws weren't holding something in place, inside the oven door, for the hooks to latch onto. but even after i tightened the 2 screws on the bottom oven door, i still can't get the darned thing latched!!??!!??

thank you again for all the help danemodsandy. i really do appreciate you helping me with them great step by step instructions.

i do have a question for you now that i am thinking about it...
can you "self-clean" both the top & bottom ovens at the same time? or was that another safety feature GE added to their double-ovens, only one oven can be set on "self-cleaning" at a time??

let me go and give this bottom oven another try. i swear sometimes i get stubborn too!!!

i'll let you know if i get it to latch or not.....

Post# 724188 , Reply# 8   12/31/2013 at 20:42 (3,755 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        
and yes.....

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the oven doors both have windows in them, and yes, they both have the metal tabs on each side of the window, that pull up to make a metal shield slide up, in between the oven glass windows. i even pulled up on the tabs to make sure that the metal shield was covering all the way to the top of the oven window. but i will give it another try & see if i can get that bottom oven to latch for "self-cleaning"!!

keep your fingers crossed for me......


Post# 724191 , Reply# 9   12/31/2013 at 20:59 (3,755 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        

hippiedoll's profile picture
i couldn't get the bottom oven's latch to move all the way over, to lock the oven door.
oh well. i guess you can't miss what you've never had (or used)?? i just thought it would be kinda neat to put the "self-cleaning" option to use & see how well the oven cleaned itself.

maybe on the next oven we get......
hm hm hm.....

Post# 724194 , Reply# 10   12/31/2013 at 21:14 (3,755 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        

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It sounds like you also have a latch problem, which is definitely fixable, but I am not experienced enough to advise you. John (combo52) would be the person who could tell you more; he knows more about early GE P*7 ranges than GE does.

I know enough to tell you that your problem could either be the latch, or the window shield. When you raise the window shield, look at the top of the inside of the door (the part closest to you when the door is open). You will see a hole in the oven door at the top center; the hole has a silvery plate covering it from behind.

That plate is supposed to move out of the way when you raise the window shields, leaving an open hole. That hole is where the latch goes when you flip the latch closed. The reason the plate is in the way with the shield lowered is so that you cannot flip the latch closed if the shield is not properly raised. Shield up, hole open - latch can be flipped. Shield down, hole closed, latch cannot be flipped. This is called an interlock.

If this plate is not moving out of the way properly, then your problem is with the shield, inside the oven door, and it's complicated to describe what to do. This is why asking combo52 might be a good idea. But you can test the interlock and see what's going on by yourself.

DO. NOT. disassemble the door until you understand what you are doing. It is complicated in there, there are a bunch of little weird parts, and every single blessed one of them has to be in exactly the right place to make the door work right. Taking stuff apart in hopes you'll stumble on the problem will do more harm than good, trust me. I had to go into my oven door when I was restoring my J 370, and I thought I would NEVER get the thing back together right. I mean I was sweating and cursing.

Spare yourself that, okay? :)

Post# 724196 , Reply# 11   12/31/2013 at 21:20 (3,755 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        

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I do not know the answer to your question about cleaning both ovens at the same time. I've never done it or tried to.

Hopefully someone else will know the answer.

Post# 724197 , Reply# 12   12/31/2013 at 21:28 (3,755 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Oh, And Christina:

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Just curious -

Is your GE double wall oven like the one in the photo below, just Coppertone instead of White?

If it is, that is a VERY nice unit, well worth fixing. It's a JK 29 double P*7 wall oven, top of the wall oven line. It was very, very expensive new.

Post# 724202 , Reply# 13   12/31/2013 at 21:41 (3,755 days old) by appnut (TX)        
top oven reaching right temperature

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Christina, are you saying that when you set the temperature knob on the oven (as an example 350 degrees) it is either not quite 350 or it's steady at over 350 degrees? My house was built in July 1984 and I bou8ght it January 1986--2nd owner. I have a 1984 slide-in Hotpoint range. From day one I noticed it was a little on the hot side. Very quickly I learned to lower the temperature knob about 12 degrees and everything is always perfect. (Yes I could do the adjustment on the temperature knob (under the knob are some screws), but that's too much trouble. I just lower the temperature. If it's just a small reduction or addition to the temperature knob, then the oven is more than usable. But if it does 100 to 125 degree temperature swings and is inconsistent in maintaining any type of temperature, then it might be the thermostat. Electric ovens when cycling the coils on & off during baking, may have as much as 10 to 15 degrees drop before the coil is energized to bring the heat back up to set temperature.

Hope this helps, Bob

Post# 724261 , Reply# 14   1/1/2014 at 08:32 (3,754 days old) by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)        
The Range in the Photo/Ad

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This range is a Model JCP68W in Harvest, and appears in my 1978-1983 GE catalogs. A description of the range's features:

"Deluxe, double-oven model with P-7 self-cleaning master oven that also cleans companion oven's removable panels; solid-state meat thermometer in master oven; Sensi-Temp surface heating unit with non-stick griddle; fluorescent cooktop light; digital clock, automatic oven timer and reminder timer; plug-in Calrod surface heating units."


Post# 724281 , Reply# 15   1/1/2014 at 10:44 (3,754 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        
Play it Again GE

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Not that it's needed - but here's an expanded view...and nice, nice stove.

Post# 724349 , Reply# 16   1/1/2014 at 17:03 (3,754 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        

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yes, our oven is the same as the white one you have pictured, but ours is in "coppertone". here is a picture of ours...

as for the bottom oven door, when i slide the side tabs up (to reveal the window shield), that slot at the top of the oven door (on the inside), it does open when the window shield is fully up. so the problem can't be in the door, i don't think? i think it is more in the latch/hooks part??

Post# 724350 , Reply# 17   1/1/2014 at 17:04 (3,754 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        

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the way the top oven heats up, from what my mom says, it doesn't reach the actual temperature (i'm guessing?). cuz she said that when they tried to cook in it, it wouldn't cook the food enough. like it didn't get hot enough. that is the way she described it to me.

me personally, because i was told that it didn't work right, i've never tried to use the top oven. and especially now since it's just me & my mom here, i only use the bottom oven when i need to bake. so i wouldn't be able to tell you if it is off by just a few degrees. what would be a good "test" bake to try?? do you have any suggestions?? i am thinking maybe try making a cake at turning up the heat by 25 degrees & see if it works better by setting the temperature 25 degrees higher?? what do you think? or maybe try some cookies at 25 degrees higher. that way, if they don't cook all the way, we will end up with "chewy center" cookies and they will still be "eatable"!?!? LOL.....

Post# 724352 , Reply# 18   1/1/2014 at 17:15 (3,754 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        

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thank you for posting the information about this stove; the years of production & the features this oven has. that was very interesting & informative. thank you...

Post# 724364 , Reply# 19   1/1/2014 at 18:04 (3,754 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        

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Since the problem seems not to be in the window shields, I'm not sure what the problem is with your latch, but stand by - John combo52 should be along soon to advise.

Your wall oven was an extremely expensive one new - what I call an "RPO" appliance. "RPO" stands for Rich People Only. It is seriously, seriously worth your while to figure out what its problem is. Yours appears to be from 1973 or perhaps a year or two later - the clue is the woodgrain insert in the oven door handles. Earlier units - through at least 1972 - had brushed metal inserts.

You will never find another wall oven that good. Ever. I hope we can help you restore it to full working order.


This post was last edited 01/01/2014 at 18:45
Post# 724378 , Reply# 20   1/1/2014 at 18:43 (3,754 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        

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thank you for the info danemodsandy!!!

i just asked my mom and she said she thinks they replaced the oven once. they bought this house in 1984 and the house was built in like 1973 or so? i don't know what brand of double-oven was in here originally but if they replaced the original oven with this GE double-oven here, than they didn't buy it brand new.

we did have a matching coppertone, GE drop-in electric range (with the slender push button controls). one of the big burners went out on it and it was hard to push the buttons in on that one, then the other burners started giving us problems and my mom replaced that coppertone drop-in range with a newer, black, rotary control, GE drop-in range.

thank you so much for the information danemodsandy! it was very interesting to learn that this double-oven was once very expensive when it was brand new. very cool!! :o)

Post# 724390 , Reply# 21   1/1/2014 at 19:40 (3,754 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Christina: :Let's Try One More Thing:

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Here are the instructions for setting a self-cleaning cycle with a P*7 oven of this vintage:

1) Open the oven door.

2) Raise the window shield to the fully raised position.

3) Close the oven door and make certain the oven light is turned OFF.

4) Turn the Oven Set knob to "Clean." Press the oven door latch release button while moving the latch to the locked position.

5) Set the starting time for cleaning by pushing in the "Start" knob on the oven timer and turning the knob until the time you want to start cleaning is reached.

6) Set the ending time for cleaning by pushing in the "Stop" knob on the oven timer and turning the knob until the time you want to stop cleaning is reached. A normal cleaning cycle is 2 hours. Heavier soil may need 3 hours. After the cleaning cycle has been running for a while, you will see a light come on, indicating that the oven door latch is locked. The latch CANNOT be moved again until the oven cools off after cleaning; this is a safety feature. Pressing the oven door latch release button while the oven is cleaning WILL NOT release the latch.

7) At the end of the cleaning cycle, it will take the oven an hour or so to cool off enough to be opened. The latch lock light will go off. You can then press the oven door latch release button and move the oven door latch so that you open the door. The oven will still be warm inside.

Your oven door should latch when you perform Step 4. When you perform Step 6, your oven should go into the self-cleaning cycle at the time you set.

If your oven does not perform according to these instructions, let us know. IT IS IMPORTANT TO PRESS THE OVEN DOOR LATCH RELEASE BUTTON WHILE YOU TRY TO LOCK THE OVEN DOOR LATCH.

Post# 724396 , Reply# 22   1/1/2014 at 20:16 (3,754 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        

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ok, i've tried to go through steps 1-7. i can do steps 1-3 & part of step 4 with no problems.

here is where i have the "hang-up", after i turn the oven set knob to "clean", i push the oven door latch release button in & hold it in the in position. while holding the oven door latch release button in, i try to slide the latch to the locked position but it only goes 1/2 and stops. i can't slide it all the way over into the locked position. i've put quite a bit of force into trying to slide it over but it won't budge no further than 1/2 way. i've even had my mom hold the latch release button in, while i try to slide the latch to the locked position but no go. my mom even said, "you're going to end up breaking it". so, i stopped. besides, i feel like i might have twisted my back slightly, trying to push that darned latch over into the locked position.

you know, it's kinda funny when you think about it cuz i get "1/2 way" through step 4, where the latch will only slide "1/2 way" over towards the locked position!!!
i don't know....

it doesn't make sense cuz the top oven's door latch slides over into the locked position so easily. but the bottom oven just won't slide all the way over. and being bent over trying to slide the latch over, i am twisting my back! i even took all of my cast iron skillets out of the bottom oven, just in case the door did lock and i have to run the cleaning cycle. i don't want the iron skillets to be stuck in the oven for the cleaning cycle. but the oven door latch wouldn't slide into the locked position.

it has to be something inside, where the latch comes out of, in between the top & bottom ovens? i don't know???

as for the top oven, i'm thinking about making some cookies, maybe oatmeal and following the directions to see how the cookies come out. then i'll raise the temperature by 25 degrees & make another batch of the cookies to see how they come out at 25 degrees higher. if they're still undercooked, i'll keep going up by 25 degrees until i can find the "just about" right temperature & see how many degrees off the top oven actually is. but before i can make the oatmeal cookies, i need to wait for my vintage sunbeam mixmaster mixer to come in the mail!!! so, i'm pretty excited about my vintage sunbeam mixmaster. and it's the "harvest gold" color too!!! HA HA!!!


Post# 724398 , Reply# 23   1/1/2014 at 20:21 (3,754 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
We'll Wait For John combo52:

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It may be that there is something going on with the latch.

But it is also possible that something is just not set right. This double-oven model uses only one timer control, which means that both ovens use some of the same stuff inside. It just may be that we're not doing something right.

Either way, John will know. Betcha.

P.S.: John's a nice guy, but he's a busy one. Might take him a few days to show up. Just be patient. :)

Post# 724409 , Reply# 24   1/1/2014 at 22:03 (3,754 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        
okie dokie.....

hippiedoll's profile picture
sounds good to me!!!

thank you so much for all your help danemodsandy. i enjoyed your's & other's correspondences & information. very helpful.

i'll wait and check in a few days and see if there are any other replies or responses.

thank you again everybody.

christina ;o)

Post# 725364 , Reply# 25   1/5/2014 at 19:23 (3,750 days old) by washdaddy (Baltimore)        

To help compensate for the temperature in the upper oven- get yourself an oven thermometer that hangs from the racks inside the oven that you can see thru the door. They aren't too overly expensive and can be picked up anyplace that sells kitchen gadgets. It will help guide you in how much you have to adjust the oven control to reach the desired oven temp.

If there's too much of a difference between what you set the oven for and what the thermometer reads I'm sure John will be able to guide you towards fixing that problem.


Post# 725388 , Reply# 26   1/5/2014 at 21:23 (3,750 days old) by jamiel (Detroit, Michigan and Palm Springs, CA)        

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That symptom of "latch only moves halfway" seems other thing to check, if there's a light switch, make sure it's off before moving the latch. Also check the sequence...I think it's latch, selectors, timer....(but there have been other sequences...I recall a Roper which you set the controls with the door open, then when you closed the door the motor latched the door.

Post# 725571 , Reply# 27   1/6/2014 at 14:51 (3,749 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        
washdaddy & jamiel...

hippiedoll's profile picture

an oven thermometer? i didn't know there was such a thing. but i guess that would let me know exactly how many degrees off the top oven actually is!! thank you for the tip washdaddy/rick!! i really appreciate that. i will see if maybe bed, bath, & beyond carries these "oven thermometers.


i actually did try different sequences to see if i could get that darned door latch to slide over. i'm pretty sure i know how to do it correctly, cuz i can get the top oven's door latch to slide over so easily, with hardly any effort. i think i could even move the top oven's latch over with my finger!

but that bottom oven door latch is one stubborn son of a "gun"!! i can't even get it to go past the 1/2 way point, by putting some body weight into it!! i don't want to push the ovens over, as we have them installed in a free standing wooden foundation (i guess you would call it?).

but thank you jamiel, for reminding me to make sure about the light switch and also trying different sequences. that was a good tip to make & something i might not have thought about! ha ha ha....

thank you both for your suggestions. they are greatly appreciated.

lots of love,
christina/hippiedoll :o)

Post# 725588 , Reply# 28   1/6/2014 at 15:48 (3,749 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Hi Christina!

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Since this thread got pushed down a little, I posted another thread in the Super forum, with John's name on it, so that he would hopefully notice it better. He did, replying with this:

"keep in mind that only ONE oven can be SCed at a time, if you have the top oven set for SCing it will block you from cleaning the bottom oven at the same time."

Allen (whirlcool) chimed in with this:

"We had one of these ovens. It seems the door latches are the key. You set the self cleaning time to start and the duration and then latch the door on the oven you want cleaned. If you latch both, it defaults to the top oven. We found that two hours would clean all but the nastiest stains out of the oven. If your oven is only moderately dirty, two hours will do.

John is absolutely correct. You can only clean one oven at a time."

John also went on to say that if setting the bottom oven without the top oven set did not "fix" the problem, then the oven might need repair. You can see the other thread here:

If this is a mechanical problem, and you would prefer to replace the oven, please don't throw those dream ovens out! Someone here will want them. Heck, if I were closer to you, I'd want them.

Hope we've helped a little.

Post# 725821 , Reply# 29   1/7/2014 at 12:21 (3,748 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        
hi danemodsandy!!

hippiedoll's profile picture
thank you sooooo much for all your help & for posting another thread in the super forum with john's name so that he would see it. you have been a tremendous help to me.

and also, please thank john & allen both for their replies & advice for me as well.


i tried it again as i was reading this reply of your's with john's & allen's advice and i still coulnd't get the bottom oven latch to slide all the way over. oh well. it's not that big of a deal. i mean, other than that, we've been using the bottom oven for as long as i can remember. and i've been here almost 10 years. LOL....

so, just because the "self-cleaning" option doesn't work, we certainly aren't going to be throwing these out! the only way we would end up getting rid of these coppertone beauties, is if the ovens stopped heating altogether. and then, hopefully we would replace them with another vintage oven, hopefully GE P*7 self-cleaning oven again!

the good news is that i've got the chance to message with a few members on here and have come to realize just how amazing, nice, knowledgable & friendly everybody here is. and how willing everybody is to help.
oh yeah, and now i have the incentive (if that's the right word to use here?) to try out the top oven & hopefully use it regularly!!

thank you guys sooooo much for your replies and all of your help & wisdom.

lots of love,
hippiedoll/christina ;o)

Post# 725829 , Reply# 30   1/7/2014 at 12:47 (3,748 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        
Hi Christina....

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....Well, if it's usable, then you're way ahead of the game.

If you ever get to a point where you want to repair the oven, then people here can help with parts and information.

And again, don't throw those beauties out - if you replace them, someone here would likely be very happy to give them a home.

P.S.: If you clean the lower oven with oven cleaner, be sure to use the kind that says "safe for self-cleaning ovens." Regular oven cleaner leaves a residue that can damage the porcelain in a self-cleaning oven if it's ever self-cleaned again. The heat reacts with the residue. Easy-Off makes oven cleaner that's safe for self-cleaning ovens; it's in every grocery store.

Be well.

Post# 725846 , Reply# 31   1/7/2014 at 13:23 (3,748 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        

hippiedoll's profile picture
as for cleaning the lower oven, i'm afraid this advice is coming a bit too late. the reason i say this is because about 2 years ago, we had a friend of my mom's staying here with us. and one day she decided to clean the oven. and unfortunately, i can't guarantee that it was the right kind of cleaner (for self-cleaning ovens) that she used. in fact, i would bet money on the fact that it wasn't the right oven cleaner that she used, since she bought a cheapy oven cleaner from the $1 store. so, i'm pretty positive it was the wrong cleaner that she used.

because of this, do you know if i can buy & use the easy-off self-cleaning oven cleaner, to take of this (residue) that the other oven cleaner left behind?? please get back to me & let me know if i would be able to remove this residue from the other cleaner that was used.

thank you so much for that (heads-up) on the oven cleaners as i have never heard of this!!!

thank you again danemodsandy. i look forward to hearing from you soon.


Post# 725874 , Reply# 32   1/7/2014 at 14:30 (3,748 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Cleaning A SC Oven with Regular Oven Cleaner

combo52's profile picture
I have never seen any commercial oven cleaner that would harm a real SCO like your GEs. It is Continuous clean ovens should never have regular lye based oven cleaners used in them.

All real pryolitic SCOs can be cleaned with ANY lye based oven cleaner, just be sure to rinse all oven cleaner off before ever using the SC function again, however it is always good advice to rinse any oven thoroughly after cleaning it before even baking in it.

Post# 725879 , Reply# 33   1/7/2014 at 14:39 (3,748 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        

danemodsandy's profile picture
I have never had oven cleaner damage an SCO either, but I have seen damage (etching) result from others' use, and on Page 7, the 1966 Use and Care Guide for P*7 ovens that is available on Automatic Ephemera is very, very specific about not using oven cleaner.

So, that's why I said what I did. I rinse like crazy, and use a weak solution of vinegar and water to neutralize the alkali in the oven cleaner, which is, I feel, why I've never had trouble. I'm sure you're similarly cautious. Not everyone is.

Post# 725884 , Reply# 34   1/7/2014 at 14:55 (3,748 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        

danemodsandy's profile picture
Just wipe down the lower oven with a solution of white vinegar and water to remove residue, and then rinse with plain water. This will neutralize any residue.

Also, no damage will occur anyway, because you are not going to be self-cleaning that oven until the issue with the latch is resolved. Only when the high heat of the self-cleaning cycle meets the residue is there a possibility of etching.

Post# 725972 , Reply# 35   1/7/2014 at 21:17 (3,748 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        
danemodsandy & combo52

hippiedoll's profile picture
thank you both for letting me know that the oven cleaner residue CAN be rinsed out/off. i'm guessing all you have to do is give it a wipe down with a soaking sponge with the white vinegar & water solution? and then plain water? is that how i would do it? or is that too much liquid for the electric oven?? i don't want to get electrocuted!!

i will do both the top & bottom ovens a rinsing with white vinegar & water. and then a 2nd rinsing with just plain water.

i say both ovens cuz my mom's friend, she sprayed the oven cleaner in both the top & bottom ovens. and you're right, it's not like i can use the "self-cleaning" on the bottom oven. but once i figure out how off the degrees are on the top oven, i do want to start using that baby, since it's hardly ever seen any cleaning (that i can ever remember of)!!! and if any spills should happen while the top oven is in use, i definitely am curious to use the "self-cleaning" feature on the top oven!!! heck, i just might "accidentally" make an over-spill, just to have an excuse to use the "self-cleaning" feature!!!
hee hee hee.....

Post# 725976 , Reply# 36   1/7/2014 at 21:20 (3,748 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)        

danemodsandy's profile picture
Just a damp sponge, like you'd use for wiping counters.

Don't worry too much. And yes, vinegar solution first, then clear water.

Post# 725982 , Reply# 37   1/7/2014 at 21:49 (3,748 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        

hippiedoll's profile picture
thank you so much danemodsandy!!!

Post# 726108 , Reply# 38   1/8/2014 at 11:00 (3,747 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Manually Cleaning an Oven

combo52's profile picture
When cleaning ANY oven manually [ gas or electric ] TURN off the breaker or UNPLUG the range which ever is easier, I have seen many cases of liquids or cleaners causing shorts when cleaning ovens or cook-tops and for that matter ANY major appliance when you are doing more than a simple wiping off the top type of cleaning.

When rinsing use lots of very wet towels, sponges are almost useless except for smearing oven cleaner residue all over the place. The best part of using lots of old towels is you have an instant load of laundry to do when you are done cleaning the oven. YAY

John L

Post# 865333 , Reply# 39   2/3/2016 at 11:23 (2,991 days old) by r0acrs8 ()        
White jk 29 double p 7 wall oven

Is this wall oven for sale?
If so, please give me some details.
I am desparate for one like this.

Post# 865382 , Reply# 40   2/3/2016 at 16:39 (2,991 days old) by firedome (Binghamton NY & Lake Champlain VT)        
2 year old thread...

firedome's profile picture
and the pic shown was just one that Sandy was using as an example.

Not surprised you'd want one of these, they are the best, imo.
Here's ours:

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