This is a replacement due to almost the complete loss of the original Caloric series. This will take some time to reconstitute due to it's size. Sadly, most of the comments will be lost since it would be far too time consuming to repost each and every one. When the rebuilding is complete, I will post the latest updates of the Ultramatic.

Many thanks to John, Martin, Mark, Louis, Steve, Bill, Paul and everyone else for their help, advice and encouragement on this project.

Part One:

www.automaticwasher.org/c...

So let's take a step back in time shall we?

Well the rotisserie spit rod arrived today. The rod was too thick. I know, thought I'd never admit to that one. So back to square one.

Too Thick Rotisserie Rod

Hi Louie, you could just grind down or have it ground down on the end that is inserted into the motor to fit.

Hey thanks John. By grinding down the tip, the chrome plating  would be lost. Wouldn't the tip begin to rust?

Spit rod...

The problem is the head. It's cone shaped. I'm going to have to do some serious grinding to get it to slip in. The spit rod came with a kit, it has the forks, handle and bushings that slip on the spit.

The new oven light switch arrived today. Perfect fit!

I have no idea of the original rods specs, but this one seems perfect at 19 inches in length. It's 5/16" in width, the smallest I could find in the correct length. It seems it needs a 3/16" width spit rod, never seen one at 19" length. The longest the rod can be is 20".

This is as far as it goes. The square sides don't engage into the receptacle. No choice but to grind the tip down.

Rust should not be an issue unless you want to put the rod in the DW, lots of cook-ware over the years is just plain uncoated steel, we are only talking about the last inch of the rod not the part that is in prolonged contact with the food.

Well, after grinding down the rod...while not pretty it will do fine until I find the correct one. The original rods' forks had 2 tines each, this one has 4. I think this is better. We all know how important it is to secure the meat.

Louie you are going to love the way that broiler will roast with the Rotisserie.

Everyone knows that I am more of an electric range person, and I actually think the the biggest single advantage of a gas range is the gas Ultra-Ray broiler because of the way a gas flame helps consume the smoke from broiling.

talk about time and effort....WHEW!!!


its is absolutely beautiful.....


I would be afraid to get it dirty after all of this work and detailed cleaning...


in either case, enjoy it in good health....


how about sliding a few small washers over the stems to build up the difference for the knobs, so as they don't touch the porcelain....

not that you need to make adjustments, but for most gas stoves, there was a screw adjustment behind the knob, down inside the slot of the shaft, you will need a tiny screwdriver...

Thanks John, I am looking forward to doing a roast on the Ultra-ray!

Thanks Martin. To be honest, the Caloric was NOT designed for easy cleaning. But every time I walk into the kitchen, I'm like "WOW". It was so worth it.

Interesting,  I found on ebay they are selling the receptacle for the Caloric's meat probe, but no probe. It came from a GE. I guess many manufacturers used the same meat probe.

The seller calls it a "thermometer" . Obviously has no idea what he's selling.

Done.

Meat temperature probe

Most of these were made by someone like King-Seealy Controls, they are fairly interchangeable, and I am sure that we have one, problem is I really don't have time to find parts many times.

Damn meat probe...

Louie, I know you want to keep original of possible, but could you rig a new temp probe and plug-in to it?

You know Greg, I had thought of that. And I'm afraid I'm going to have to go that route. The meat probe is proving to be even more elusive than the spit rod.

I have to say, that oven is a real blast furnace. I opened the door to take out a pizza and I literally felt my face being seared. I have never used an oven, gas or electric, that warms up so fast and so intensely in my life. I suppose it's because the oven is relatively small, and the burner is oversized. Oh well.

As suggested by Martin...

I fixed the knob problem. They will no longer gouge the porcelain. The washers will have to do for now.

My husband found the matching font used originally for the knobs.

Well now. What have we here?

I finally found the meat probe. And on ebay no less.

Up next, a Knobathon!

Now if there is one thing I like, it's a clean, neat and shiny knob.

The lettering had pretty much disappeared from the knobs of the Caloric. So after some cleaning, painting, removing the center aluminum disks, printing new lettering using the correct font (thanks to hubby), then applying,  sealing the disk with a layer of archival tape (non yellowing, acid free), finally the knobs are done.

Knobs before:

And now the process:

From north of the border it came...

I love getting a package from the mailman. Today I received a spit-rod for the Caloric from Turquoise Dude (Paul). It's a PERFECT fit! Not only does it go in smoothly, but it locks into place! Thanks a million Paul! XOXO!

Current state of affairs...2/27/18

 Next up, servicing of all the gas valves.

Is there supposed to be a flat griddle in the middle of the cooktop, as for eggs and pancakes?

Yes. See part one of the series Bob.

Quick observation on using the Ultra-ray broiler. The broiler knob, and the area around it get  scorching HOT. As in I actually burned my fingers when shutting off the broiler hot. This can not be a design flaw. Why would the knob get so incredibly hot?

Only touch the plastic part of the knob, also close the door when broiling in this range.

John 

The 5th burner, griddle valve had seized.  Fine, I took it apart, greased it and now the valve will not turn. The knob turns fine. There is gas in the pilot light, but when you turn the knob, it's like the cylinder inside the valve does not turn. There is no tell tail sound of gas flowing through to the burner. I cleaned and greased all the other valves, and they are fine. I even compared the other automatic valve with this one to see if I missed anything, but it looks good. I haven't forced it. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Some images of greasing the gas valves. I used "Valve Cream". Expensive, goopy stuff. Still unable to get the 5th burner to function.

Thanks to Eugene (Lorain Furniture) for posting a great video on greasing gas stove valves. Link below.

Left, rear gas valve:

Ultra-ray valve: