Thread Number: 94933  /  Tag: Vintage Dryers
Windowed Inglis Royal Dryer
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Post# 1195746   12/20/2023 at 18:15 by bellalaundry (St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada)        

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I came across this Facebook Marketplace post. Nice vintage! Anybody want a trip to Montreal?



CLICK HERE TO GO TO bellalaundry's LINK


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Post# 1195747 , Reply# 1   12/20/2023 at 18:47 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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Nice!  The sale references 1950.  It's mid 1960s.


Post# 1195751 , Reply# 2   12/20/2023 at 19:42 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)        
matching washer

Where's the matching washer?

Post# 1195753 , Reply# 3   12/20/2023 at 19:57 by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

That control panel could probably be put on a newer solid bulkhead dryer and you would have an efficient dryer. I remember John having this model in doeskin or something similar with the autodry.

Post# 1195755 , Reply# 4   12/20/2023 at 20:08 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        
Reply #3

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Tom, I am not certain if the porcelain top on this particular dryer would fit a model with the the newer style of bulkhead since it has the smaller lint filter which looks to be 3” away or so from the edge and simply wouldn’t match up all that well sue to the lint filter opening being off center. I could transfer the top of my Whirlpool to a newer style of Whirlpool dryer if I really wanted to, but would alter the originality of the machine since it wouldn’t the same anymore.

Post# 1195773 , Reply# 5   12/21/2023 at 10:24 by 114jwh (Vancouver)        

Great find - thanks for sharing! I think this one may have come up once before a few months ago. It is indeed a 1966 and would be the older design - Canada was a bit behind and didn't start switching over to the newer current design until 1968. Royal was the TOL model for Inglis.

As Tom points out, you can take the control panel and put it on a the newer dryer design with some ingenuity and some rewiring skills - I've actually done this once before. However as Sean noted, you have to use the newer top due to the different location of the lint filter between the two designs. To mount the older control panel on the newer top required new holes to be drilled for attachment. You also have to be selective with the donor and choose one that has a slim control panel like the old one if you don't want any old holes visible.



CLICK HERE TO GO TO 114jwh's LINK


Post# 1195776 , Reply# 6   12/21/2023 at 11:43 by Ragnboneman (Ontario)        

"That control panel could probably be put on a newer solid bulkhead dryer and you would have an efficient dryer."

Is that really a thing?
I'm an electrician and honestly cant see how much of an efficiency improvement could be made by doing that.

I also think it might be easier to just repair and use modern parts.
A pre 1962 electric split phase motor might be a bit less efficient than a T frame or something.
But that nothing compared to how much hydro your burning in the heater.

Older motors made in the 50s and 60s also tend to hum less and are cooler to the touch because they run lower magnetic flux in the core and have less heat in the motor concentrated in a small foot print like new motors.
Its counter intuitive but a modern motor is hotter and noisier to safe energy..

I do love the style of older stuff.
just about everything from the days before the 70s Malaise era was futuristic bright and modern looking

A lawnboy had " Colouramic " styling...
it still looks fresh.
A Merc outboard had fins that just looked cool..
It looks fast just sitting on the boat.

Boy today's stuff not only doesn't last, not very interesting to look at.

I took this off a GE 500hp motor starter that we were scrapping out.
Its from sometime around 67.
They took a little pride in the product and proudly told you this was a GE starter and they were proud of it.
The style is simple clean and pleasing to the eye they want to tell you this is GE Control product...
( details and specifications inside the door with a print pocket to help you trouble shoot, no one seems to do that anymore... give you a print pocket I mean, or a shelf to put your meter on or light inside so you can see )
Not unique CCL, Westinghouse, all did it.

Now you install something on the plant floor from a distance I can't tell you who made it, and I don't actually care.



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Post# 1195786 , Reply# 7   12/21/2023 at 16:46 by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Ragnboneman, I was suggesting a way to get from the inefficient air flow pattern of the old design with the perforated rear of the drum to the newer drum with the solid rear bulkhead with the separate inlet and exhaust grills that prevent the air flow behind the drum as in the older dryers with the perforated back of the drum. I meant the control panel and typed control panel and once again Sean misread what I posted and thought that I meant the whole top and no one corrected him. I apologize for not being clearer than typing "control panel." If you look at old operating manuals for Kenmore electric dryers with the perforated rear drum design, the drying times are much longer for machines on 30 amp service compared with the drying times for the solid bulkhead machines introduced in the mid 60s. The drying times for the gas dryers with the 37K BTU modulating burners were roughly the same for the newer design because they were powerful enough to overcome the inefficiency, especially when John glued strips of felt to the rear solid bulkhead behind the perforated rear of the drum to deflect and channel the air from the inlet into the drum and channel the exhaust stream so that it pulled the air from the right side of the drum instead of pulling it behind the drum without forcing it through the load. I am sorry for any palpitations I may have caused Sean to have and pass on to other poor readers. I have both styles of dryers and am aware of the lint screen arrangements.

Post# 1195790 , Reply# 8   12/21/2023 at 17:00 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        

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Wasn’t trying to knit-pick in any form, just wanted to clear up some confusion if someone wants to go about doing a conversation to make the dryer more efficient. The only downside, is you’d loose the ability to select the wattage of the heating element since a majority of Whirlpool dryers from the early 60’s had the dual wattage element in them while only a select from after 1966 have the dual wattage element in them. I suppose if that Inglis has the ‘Speed’ selector, could wire up the newer style of machine (if it has the auto dry) to run the heating element on 120v power on ‘Normal’ or ‘Gentle’ and operate the heating element on 240v for ‘Super’.

Post# 1195796 , Reply# 9   12/21/2023 at 17:30 by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

There was no confusion in what I posted. Your poor comprehension caused the confusion. You did not say anything about the wattage, only the lint filter placement. It's just like your not being able to distinguish between my Hamilton dryer and the model in the Beltsville museum.

Post# 1195800 , Reply# 10   12/21/2023 at 20:17 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
1966 Royal Inglis dryer

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This is a very cool dryer, Tom is right we have a dough skin colored gas US version of this that I fully rebuilt. It’s a nice fast dryer even though the airflow is inefficient in these older dryers because of the 37,000 BTU gas burner.

hi RBM , while it’s true that electric dryer efficiency doesn’t very much there were a number of early dryer designs that were quite a bit less efficient. Most notably whirlpool and Kenmore dryers had miserable efficiency from 1947 through 1965 or 1966 on the spacific model.

Early Bendix dryers were another one that had terrible airflow. They were slow and used a lot of power.

Hi Sean, very few whirlpools had dual heating elements and that doesn’t have anything to do with the efficiency anyway only a couple top whirlpool models and soft heat Kenmore had dual heating elements because of the soft heat function, but again it didn’t make any difference with the efficiency of operation.

You only have to look through the owners manuals and see how much longer the suggested drawing times were on these early whirlpool in Kenmore dryers. You also can look in consumer reports testing of drying speed to see that it was a poor design, even though the dryer itself was fairly rugged in long lasting.


Post# 1195806 , Reply# 11   12/21/2023 at 21:58 by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

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I have the gas, RCA Whirlpool version of this dryer.  It's a great dryer, I added some folded felt seal around the air/exhaust intake to help with the airflow pattern.  Not sure it makes a big difference but it's a very accurate dryer and nicely cooled when finished.


The biggest appeal is of course the styling, window, lights and chrome.  Keep the coal trains moving, the gas plants firing and the fission reactions going, we have wash to dry!


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Post# 1195815 , Reply# 12   12/21/2023 at 22:44 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        
Reply #10

maytag85's profile picture
Nothing really to do with efficiency (does to a degree) by stepping the voltage of the heating element down to 120v but more so to with having more temperature options for delicate items or any clothes with vinyl decals on them. Merely would be controlled with the Gentle/Normal and Super speed selections, basically would be the same thing with the moving the Fabric Guide selector to Delicate as you would on the 1956 Whirlpool Imperial dryer like Paul has.

Post# 1195816 , Reply# 13   12/21/2023 at 23:20 by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Greg, I love the way the panel light does nothing to illumine the controls.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year,
Tom



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