Thread Number: 84243  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag A806 Tune Up
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Post# 1086175   8/23/2020 at 15:58 (942 days old) by joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR)        

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Hello All!

I recently acquired this A806 at an estate sale in my town, half off on the last day. I am completely excited and hope to find the matching dryer at some point. It seems to be in pretty good shape considering her age. I thought I would first check the damper pads and lube them if needed. I think they may have been replaced once just looking at the mess of dried glue around the damper area. I did not see a service manual in our documentation library here, but I have hit my first stump. Does this hose come off of the bleach container so that the top will lift? Pics of machine and container attached.

SN: 738642UY


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Post# 1086176 , Reply# 1   8/23/2020 at 16:11 (942 days old) by joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR)        

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I found the service manual. I guess I just overlooked it earlier. What I don't see in the literature is if the gray hose can be removed from the top of the bleach container?

Post# 1086178 , Reply# 2   8/23/2020 at 16:22 (942 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

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Cosmetically, your new machine looks beautiful!  Except for the "Normal" load size button, they all look barely used.

 

I'm betting this turns out to be a great machine that needs little or no attention before you can start to enjoy it.


Post# 1086179 , Reply# 3   8/23/2020 at 16:23 (942 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        
the gray hose can be removed from the top of the bleach cont

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Yes, twist the hose to break the seal, then pull upward.

Post# 1086182 , Reply# 4   8/23/2020 at 16:36 (942 days old) by joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR)        

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@qsd-dan,

Thank you! What do I use to reseal?


Post# 1086184 , Reply# 5   8/23/2020 at 16:42 (942 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

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No need to reseal, the hose is usually stuck on tight from both age and water deposits.

Post# 1086232 , Reply# 6   8/23/2020 at 22:56 (942 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
looking at the mess of dried glue around the damper area.

That mess of glue is normal factory install. Damper pads are probably original, hopefully intact, and dry as the Sahara.

Water stains looks like the tub cover seal may be leaking as well, rust/ corrosion on the pump and motor, otherwise not too bad for it's age, should clean up nicely.

Careful removing the bleach hose, it can weaken with age.


Post# 1086277 , Reply# 7   8/24/2020 at 09:51 (942 days old) by joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR)        
following the service manual.....

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I removed the eye bolt from the front and marked with electrical tape its location for attaching it back. It then states that the pressure should be relieved from the two rear springs and to remove the springs from the eye bolt. I just cant unhook those rear springs. I am using a pair of pliers. Do I just not have the strength needed or is there a better way?

Post# 1086317 , Reply# 8   8/24/2020 at 12:43 (942 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        

The nuts on the rear spring eye bolts should be removed. Very difficult, if not impossible to just unhook with tension on them.

Better read up before you break something or get hurt.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO Good-Shepherd's LINK


Post# 1086333 , Reply# 9   8/24/2020 at 13:50 (942 days old) by joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR)        
read-up

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I was following the service manual for the machine. I will take a look at the link you sent.

Post# 1086384 , Reply# 10   8/24/2020 at 19:44 (941 days old) by joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR)        
WooHoo! Dampers exposed!

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I have the dampers exposed. Thanks to the article linked above. I feel that the service manual is a big vague, but then again I guess the Maytag repairman would have had hands on training to supplement the manual. Unfortunately, I will replacing the damper pads as one of them was completely loose. I don't see any black dust around feeling with my fingers, so I think the damper bowl is ok.

On another topic, I noticed quite a bit of grease splatter underneath when I tilted her back. This may be normal for a machine from 1974 but would like to hear you all chime in. Thanks!!


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Post# 1086395 , Reply# 11   8/24/2020 at 20:50 (941 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        

The oil is the common lower trans o-ring leak, fixing it involves total disassembly. I would just clean it up for now, they can run many years that way.

Here are instruction for the damper pads:


CLICK HERE TO GO TO Good-Shepherd's LINK


Post# 1086396 , Reply# 12   8/24/2020 at 20:59 (941 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        

New damper pads:

(wow, prices are way up, these kits went for under $10 a few years ago).


CLICK HERE TO GO TO Good-Shepherd's LINK on eBay


Post# 1086401 , Reply# 13   8/24/2020 at 21:55 (941 days old) by Joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR)        
While Iím Parts Ordering

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What other maintenance tasks should I perform before doing an initial water test?

Post# 1086416 , Reply# 14   8/25/2020 at 00:16 (941 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
other maintenance tasks

Clean and lube the motor slides?

BTW- Have you tried removing the agitator? That can be a battle to get off sometimes.


Post# 1086482 , Reply# 15   8/25/2020 at 10:24 (941 days old) by joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR)        
agitator

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I have not tried to remove it....should I?

Post# 1086493 , Reply# 16   8/25/2020 at 12:41 (941 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
I have not tried to remove it....should I?

I would, probably crud under there that needs cleaning and you can check the condition of the agitator shaft.

Post# 1086588 , Reply# 17   8/25/2020 at 22:36 (940 days old) by hobbyapocalypse (Northeast Pennsylvania)        
Maybe check the water pump

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Oil the bearing and see that the pulley turns freely, See step 7 below. You don't need to disassemble the pump, just remove the screw and put some turbine oil in there. If the pump doesn't turn freely it may need replacing.

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Post# 1086589 , Reply# 18   8/25/2020 at 22:48 (940 days old) by hobbyapocalypse (Northeast Pennsylvania)        
And check the water injector

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That may be what caused the leaking outside the tub

Post# 1086591 , Reply# 19   8/25/2020 at 23:42 (940 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

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If you're going to test for leaks, tape the lid down, remove the 2 screws at the corners under the top panel and raise it 90 degrees. This makes detecting leaks, particularly during the spin cycle, much easier to locate in real time. I test all of my post 1965 machines this way.

I have a bad feeling you're going to find leaks around the band seal during the spin cycle (be sure to test this with a full tub of water). As mentioned above, check the water injector and injector hose (particularly where it connects to the tub) for leaks during the initial fill portion of the cycle, located on the left side.


Post# 1086674 , Reply# 20   8/26/2020 at 15:06 (939 days old) by joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR)        
Damper Pad Cleanup

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Does it hurt the finish on the base to take a wire brush to clean the old glue off, or is another instrument better? My new damper pads and adhesive has been ordered.

If I wanted extra poly-lube for the motor glides, will the product in the attached link work? Is it the same thing as Maytag poly lube?



CLICK HERE TO GO TO joefuss1984's LINK


Post# 1086727 , Reply# 21   8/26/2020 at 21:21 (939 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))        

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I would try a product like Goof Off first. If it works it won't harm the paint the way a wire brush is likely to. I've used it on old adhesives before with good results.

Post# 1086747 , Reply# 22   8/26/2020 at 22:21 (939 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
take a wire brush to clean the old glue off

I wouldn't get too aggressive removing the old adhesive, better not to damage the factory coating on base plate.

Just a mild degreaser or solvent as suggested. I've used WD-40 for adhesive removal without damaging the underlying finish.

The service manual link above doesn't mention removing the old adhesive only residual grease.



Post# 1086755 , Reply# 23   8/26/2020 at 22:35 (939 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
Is it the same thing as Maytag poly lube

Nope.

Poly-Lube is Maytag's name for silicone grease, also known as dialectic grease. Sold in auto part stores for use on spark plug boots, electrical connections, brake calipers. etc.

www.amazon.com/3M-08946-C...




CLICK HERE TO GO TO Good-Shepherd's LINK


Post# 1087307 , Reply# 24   8/30/2020 at 15:34 (935 days old) by Joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR)        
Adhesive Removal

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So Iím trying to remove the adhesive with the goof off and not have very good luck. I spent an hour and just got the front area done and used 1/3 of the can on that one area. Any other suggestions?

Post# 1087309 , Reply# 25   8/30/2020 at 15:39 (935 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        
Adhesive Removal

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I always just use Acetone and a little bit of elbow grease. 


Post# 1087341 , Reply# 26   8/30/2020 at 23:52 (935 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Conn)        

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I would just go over it with a fresh coat of Goodyear Pliobond , install the new pads and call it a day. Should be fine.

Post# 1087376 , Reply# 27   8/31/2020 at 10:25 (935 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))        

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As eurekastar mentioned, acetone will definitely work, but it will also soften the paint while you're using it(it'll recover when you're done)so use it carefully.

Post# 1087378 , Reply# 28   8/31/2020 at 11:05 (935 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

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Acetone will clean up the old sticky pad and glue residue but as Dave mentioned, it will remove the paint. There's no need to remove the glue that doesn't have any reminiscent pad material, just leave it alone.

When you lay the glue down, cover up any bare metal areas of removed paint. This will prevent the base from rusting.

I'd personally remove the entire working unit for better accessibility. All damper pads I've installed are with the unit and cabinet off of the base, nothing attached. It's hard enough with those removed to get the damper pads properly aligned with base cone and properly spaced out from each other since the glue flash drys in a matter of seconds once the damper pads touch it. It requires one to be very quick and precise in an extremely short period of time. I can't imagine doing that job with the cabinet attached and the milk stool floating slightly above that area.


Post# 1087393 , Reply# 29   8/31/2020 at 13:58 (935 days old) by Joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR)        

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Thanks QSD-DAN. That helps. This is my first damper pad change. It shows huh lol

Post# 1087420 , Reply# 30   8/31/2020 at 17:18 (934 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        
It shows huh lol

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We all gotta start somewhere :)

It's those of us who are persistent that reap the benefits. You'll find in life that overcoming the biggest obstacles usually reaps the biggest rewards.


Post# 1087589 , Reply# 31   9/2/2020 at 00:07 (933 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
Any other suggestions

Yeah, leave it alone.

Installl the new pads right over the old adhesive which is obviously bonded on there pretty damn hard..

The new adhesive may even act as a solvent and blend with the old adhesive before curing.

As mentioned, the Maytag service manual doesn't say a word about removing old adhesive.


Post# 1088263 , Reply# 32   9/7/2020 at 09:39 (928 days old) by Joefuss1984 (Little Rock, AR)        
Progress!!

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Damper pads replaced and lubricated. Water test shows no leaks at all. I think there may have been one in the past that was repaired which led to all of the dried water on the outer tub. Iím having problems finding turbine oil at a hardware store. The pump whines and I think that will quiet it down. The motor sounds rough on the gentle speed but not so bad on regular. I need to take it off and lube the glides. Does this motor have any place to oil or is it sealed.

One more question. Even tho I marked the eye bolts with tape as the machine runs it pulls the tub to the back right. I should loosen that one a little right?


Post# 1088301 , Reply# 33   9/7/2020 at 13:39 (928 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Conn)        
Zoom Spout oiler

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I just order a few at a time off Ebay or Amazon depending on whos got the best deal at the mo, along with my Kroil. Make sure the machine is sitting level first before attempting to adjust its tub balance. I would advise replacing those motor slides with new ones, try to find round ones if you can on Ebay.

Post# 1088385 , Reply# 34   9/7/2020 at 22:15 (927 days old) by hobbyapocalypse (Northeast Pennsylvania)        
Overflowing suds

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might have left their marks on the tub. I'm happy to hear there are no leaks!

That's a good question about oiling the motor. I don't see a practical way to do it and if there was I think it would say so in the service manual, but it doesn't.


Post# 1088388 , Reply# 35   9/7/2020 at 22:37 (927 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
having problems finding turbine oil

Try Ace Hardware for the Turbine oil.



CLICK HERE TO GO TO Good-Shepherd's LINK


Post# 1088390 , Reply# 36   9/7/2020 at 22:41 (927 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

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That motor is sealed but you can drill a small hole just large enough at both end caps and gravity feed some turbine oil to the wick. These style motors have very large size wicking material at both ends that's doused in turbine oil. I wouldn't bother oiling those but I've been through enough of them to convince myself it isn't needed.

I've also been through a slew of the older round style motors and even those that have seen an insane amount of use with more than 1/8" end play on the commutator shaft still have more than enough traces of oil on the wick and shaft when taken apart. I still take them apart, blow them with compressed air, lube the wicks/shaft, check and clean motor switch contacts, lube the centrifugal switch, and set end play at 1/16 inch if needed simply for peace of mind.

Dryer motors are a completely different story. ALWAYS oil those whenever possible. Heat radiating around and through them drys out the wicking material and causing the commutator shaft to seize up.


Post# 1088401 , Reply# 37   9/8/2020 at 01:19 (927 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

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I don't know of any belt driven TL washer that wasn't louder on slow agitation.  My A712 is louder, and sometimes but not terribly often, there will be a rattling sound from the motor, on the exterior like maybe a speed changing component.  The cause of the rattle corrects itself within a minute or less and that's that.  I've never felt the need to investigate it.

 

As stated above, most ACE Hardware stores carry ZoomSpout turbine oil.


Post# 1088402 , Reply# 38   9/8/2020 at 01:31 (927 days old) by DaveAMKrayoGuy (Oak Park, MI)        

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Neat, old time full-featured washer...

Good luck on your way to getting her to work...



-- Dave



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