Thread Number: 94230  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
'70 Maytag A806 oil leak - What do I do next? Please help
[Down to Last]

automaticwasher.org's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate automaticwasher.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 1189245   9/3/2023 at 22:54 (290 days old) by AtomicT (Middletown, NY)        

atomict's profile picture
So I followed this wonderful site's direction on how to replace the tub bearing and stem kit, but I need to fix the leaking oil situation on my '70 Maytag.

We stopped using it 5 years ago, after 6 years of almost daily use because it was vibrating, sounding off and leaking oil. So I've got it apart and have the parts for the tub bearing stem, and the damper pad kit. But what do I need to do, and what parts to I need, to fix the leak? Are there threads here I can research on what to do? Am I rebuilding the transmission? I just need to know as I am clueless on the next steps....


  View Full Size



Post# 1189251 , Reply# 1   9/4/2023 at 01:24 (290 days old) by stuftrock1 (Kentucky)        

stuftrock1's profile picture

My guess is you need a new lower lip seal.

 

www.partselect.com/PS2017...

 

Do you know how much oil has leaked? If it's a lot you might wanna open it up to at least top it off. The Pitman tranny is pretty simple and very easy to rebuild. I never could find a replacement gasket though, so you'll have to use some liquid gasket.


Post# 1189256 , Reply# 2   9/4/2023 at 08:29 (290 days old) by AtomicT (Middletown, NY)        
It sat leaking for a few years…

atomict's profile picture
I would say it lost a lot of oil as it sat for a long time. Thanks for a link to the part. So I have some questions about what type of oil, and I assume I have to clean out all of the old oil completely? Also should I just go ahead and replace the brake assembly and bearing?

Post# 1189259 , Reply# 3   9/4/2023 at 09:56 (290 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

I believe fixing that leak requires total disassembly of the transmission. There is an O ring on the shaft that is leaking.

 


Post# 1189263 , Reply# 4   9/4/2023 at 10:13 (290 days old) by AtomicT (Middletown, NY)        

atomict's profile picture
Are there any threads on here detailing on how to disassemble and reassemble the transmission I could look at?

Post# 1189270 , Reply# 5   9/4/2023 at 11:57 (290 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

>> Are there any threads on here detailing on how to disassemble and reassemble the transmission I could look at?

Oh yeah - the thread linked below is solid gold.

"Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW."
www.automaticwasher.org/c...


Post# 1189271 , Reply# 6   9/4/2023 at 12:00 (290 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
Are there threads here I can research

The lower trans o-ring needs to be replaced to stop the leak so the trans must be removed and disassembled, plus the machine will agitate better with fresh trans oil. Very doable for a motivated DYI'er.

Here is a very meticulous thread on rebuilding a vintage MT transmission:

www.automaticwasher.org/c...

And another for the stem and tub bearing:

www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/...


Post# 1189274 , Reply# 7   9/4/2023 at 12:08 (290 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        

maytag85's profile picture
I agree with Good-Shepherd, the lower o-ring will need to replaced to stop the oil leak. While you are at it, might as well inspect the other components while you have things apart.

Post# 1189277 , Reply# 8   9/4/2023 at 12:13 (290 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
should I just replace the brake assembly and bearing

Maytag brake assemblies rarely fail.

Aside from adding a tablespoon of trans oil to the brake package I'd leave those items alone.


Post# 1189280 , Reply# 9   9/4/2023 at 12:35 (290 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
I assume I have to clean out all of the old oil

Yes, and it will have the consistence of molasses, even using gasoline for a solvent it takes a while to clean it all out and you need to refill with a yellow metal safe GL-4 oil like Sta-Lub:

www.napaonline.com/en/p/S...


Post# 1189295 , Reply# 10   9/4/2023 at 16:16 (290 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture

Maytag used an o-ring seal from at least 1956 (may even go back to the AMP models) until June 1986 when they switched to the lip seal design that ran until Maytags demise in 2006.

 

The trans needs to be taken apart....at minimum, change the old oil (what's left of it), and replace the lower o-ring. Back when parts were still easily available, changing the Delrin pinion gear and clutch washers was also recommended. You'll need to use RTV for the transmission cover seal since the gasket is NLA. Running the machine with low oil will eventually gull up and seize the internal gearing.


Post# 1189301 , Reply# 11   9/4/2023 at 16:39 (290 days old) by AtomicT (Middletown, NY)        
Thank you everyone!!

atomict's profile picture
These links have been so helpful! Well, here I go! Now to find that pesky brake wrench. I am going to stop at the local appliance store tomorrow and see if they have one....

You all are so great and helpful!! Thank you so very much!!


Post# 1189311 , Reply# 12   9/4/2023 at 17:59 (289 days old) by stuftrock1 (Kentucky)        
Brake removal tool

stuftrock1's profile picture
I have been looking for one of those for years now without any luck. I wish you the best of luck in finding one. If you don’t, just use vice grips on the edge of the brake assembly as a makeshift wrench.

Post# 1189321 , Reply# 13   9/4/2023 at 18:27 (289 days old) by AtomicT (Middletown, NY)        
Would a nylon strap work?

atomict's profile picture

So, I have a tool i use for my car's oil filters. Its a nylon strap and a square 1/2" rod connecting the ends. I wrap it around the filter and then insert a ratchet into the rod and go to work. It works amazingly well. I think it might fit around the brake actually. Or i could just make my own I guess with a ratchet strap?

Who is hoarding all these brake wrenches btw? surprised


Post# 1189324 , Reply# 14   9/4/2023 at 18:43 (289 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
Now to find that pesky brake wrench.

The brake doesn't need to be removed to take the trans out for service.

You've got enough work already, don't fix things that aren't broken and unlikely to fail.






Post# 1189351 , Reply# 15   9/5/2023 at 00:59 (289 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture

The brake doesn't need to be removed to take the trans out for service.

 

This is true but he mentioned in his first post about replacing the damper pads. Removing the brake assembly makes this considerably much easier to do. Something I learned with rebuilding transmissions early on is that the internal springs gets weak in the brake package overtime and it generally doesn't take long for the tub to begin indexing after the trans has been rebuilt and is agitating with great authority.

 

The brake tool were all over the place until Whirlpoop discontinued them a few years back. Almost overnight they suddenly became rare. I wonder if most owners threw them away after replacing the brake package or they were just stashed somewhere in the garage and forgot about 'em. Probably thrown away after they died, for sure.


Post# 1189353 , Reply# 16   9/5/2023 at 06:13 (289 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

You can clamp vice grips to the brake, then tap the vice grips with a hammer.

 


Post# 1189369 , Reply# 17   9/5/2023 at 12:21 (289 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

>> Almost overnight they suddenly became rare.
>> ...
>> Probably thrown away after they died, for sure.


As a strong contributing factor, I don't think I've ever seen one marked in any way that indicates what it is. If a person had a history in appliance repair, they would recognize one of the specialty tools immediately (brake or tub nut tool).

But for anyone else? Not a chance. Just another mystery tool. No idea what it is, no idea how to find out, no clue what it might be worth... but it looks kinda homemade, so... probably just junk.


Post# 1189394 , Reply# 18   9/5/2023 at 17:31 (288 days old) by AtomicT (Middletown, NY)        
A funny thing happened at the appliance store.......

atomict's profile picture

So, I went to my local appliance store to see if I could get some parts for this project.   They went to get the owner of the store (who by the way said he was one of the first four members of this site!), and he went on to tell me that I am wasting my time on this.  Here was his reasoning:

 

He stated that the lower O-ring should never fail.  He state emphatically that it fails because the lower bushing has gone bad (he stated from the motor rollers go bad and put undo lateral stress on the lower trans housing).  He explained that I was going to go through all of this and it was still going to leak anyways.

 

I am deflated for sure.  Sourcing parts for this has been a circus show of jumping through internet hoops like crazy.  So let me ask you all this:

 

  1. Is he right?
  2. I am changing the tub bearing, stem kit, damper kit, and rebuilding the trans, and changing the motor roller kit.  Will this mitigate the problem enough that I won't have to worry about it leaking oil again?
  3. Is getting a lower trans housing bushing just out of the question?

What is a girl to do?  I really really really want to put this machine back into service!  (my dirty clothes are really stacking up!!)

 


Post# 1189397 , Reply# 19   9/5/2023 at 18:43 (288 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
Undo lateral stress on the lower trans. Is he right?

Never heard that one before.

The o-ring is common known failure point in the older transmission and was redesigned with a lip seal in later models.

if the motor rollers were excessively binding you'd know it with the belt burning up or the motor overheating and locking out in thermal overload. That being said its good idea to replace them while you're in there.







Post# 1189401 , Reply# 20   9/5/2023 at 19:28 (288 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        
Load of Bullshit

qsd-dan's profile picture

I've replaced a lot of o-rings is the last 16 years and never had a leak come back yet. They leak from a combination of use and age. One of our long term members, Geoff Delp scored a NIB A700 which leaked from the o-ring about a year into service. O-ring replaced, problem solved. Certainly no bushing wear on a virtually new machine.

 

www.automaticwasher.org/c...

 


Post# 1189403 , Reply# 21   9/5/2023 at 20:19 (288 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
Sourcing parts for this has been a circus

What parts do you need?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/374913254684QUE...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155737762519QUE...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124033285200QUE...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/354938975159QUE...

Better grab the stem kit fast if you don't have it.






Post# 1189406 , Reply# 22   9/5/2023 at 22:07 (288 days old) by stuftrock1 (Kentucky)        
Lower o-ring

stuftrock1's profile picture

"He stated that the lower O-ring should never fail.  He state emphatically that it fails because the lower bushing has gone bad (he stated from the motor rollers go bad and put undo lateral stress on the lower trans housing).  He explained that I was going to go through all of this and it was still going to leak anyways."

Yeah that's a load of bologna. Those lower o-rings fail all the time, so much so that Maytag replaced them with a lower lip seal (which is compatible with your A806, just be sure to get the old o-ring out before installing the new lip seal). When I bought my A512, it had a minor oil leak. Installed a new lower lip seal and that fixed it. Hasn't leaked as much as a drop since.

 

Your A806 is still very much fixable, don't get discouraged!


Post# 1189407 , Reply# 23   9/5/2023 at 22:11 (288 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture
And in the absolute worst case, if you get in over your head or find something you can't repair, you could swap in the entire tub/transmission/damper assembly as a unit from a donor washer, and have your machine back up and running in short order.

Post# 1190704 , Reply# 24   9/26/2023 at 17:10 (267 days old) by AtomicT (Middletown, NY)        
Agitator Stop Ring

atomict's profile picture

Hey guys!  I am still working on this.  Life just keeps getting in the way!!

 

Anyways, I am looking for the agitator stop seal.  Any leads on to where I can get one or at least a part number??

 

Any help would be appreciated!!


  View Full Size
Post# 1190708 , Reply# 25   9/26/2023 at 18:19 (267 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Y015494


Post# 1190724 , Reply# 26   9/26/2023 at 20:40 (267 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        

https://www.ebay.com/itm/385622761404QUE...

Post# 1191180 , Reply# 27   10/3/2023 at 10:22 (261 days old) by AtomicT (Middletown, NY)        
Water Pump question

atomict's profile picture

So i am still plugging along on this and am near the end.  I will post some pictures shortly. (My kids really enjoyed putting the transmission back together and pouring the oil!! )

 

I am replacing the water pump and noticed the stem for the bleach dispenser to attach to has no hole!  The stem is there but its solid.  So I am assuming that I just drill a hole? Is there a particular size I am supposed to use?

 

Thanks again to everyone for their help.  This has been a really fun adventure.

 

One other question - After all of this, how long do you think it will realistically live for?


Post# 1191181 , Reply# 28   10/3/2023 at 10:43 (261 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture

The stem is there but its solid.  So I am assuming that I just drill a hole? Is there a particular size I am supposed to use?

 

Use a 9/32 drill bit. It says that on the original package, maybe the new ones don't.

One other question - After all of this, how long do you think it will realistically live for?

 

I did this 15 years ago and not one single problem has cropped up yet. Not surprised though, it's a Maytag.


Post# 1191183 , Reply# 29   10/3/2023 at 11:01 (261 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Bleach port on the pump ... yes, needs to be drilled.  This 2020-21 thread discusses it starting at Reply 32 and references 9/32".


Post# 1191191 , Reply# 30   10/3/2023 at 14:08 (261 days old) by stuftrock1 (Kentucky)        

stuftrock1's profile picture

One other question - After all of this, how long do you think it will realistically live for?

 

As long as you take good care of it and don't overload it or anything, it will probably outlive you. It's a Maytag, they weren't fooling around when they built them to last.


Post# 1191519 , Reply# 31   10/7/2023 at 21:00 (256 days old) by AtomicT (Middletown, NY)        
Back together - Something seems off

atomict's profile picture

So I have it all back together, cleaned up, and I think something is wrong.

 

First:

I hooked it up in the garage for testing with just the one hose hooked up to cold with the settings set to cold, and water started shooting out through the hot inlet.  Am I a fool for doing this or is it broken?  I thought it was supposed to be closed if you only wanted to do cold water?

 

Second:

I can't get it to spin.  It agitates and does it beautifully and smoothly.  When I have it set on the dial to do the spin, the machine just makes a semi-loud hum.  I checked the wires on the motor and all is good.  Any ideas on what's wrong?


  View Full Size
Post# 1191525 , Reply# 32   10/7/2023 at 23:02 (256 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
I think something is wrong.

Yeah, both hoses should be hooked up.

No spin: Is it plugged in via an extension cord?


Post# 1191526 , Reply# 33   10/7/2023 at 23:35 (256 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture

If you’re feeding the water supply to the cold valve port via a garden hose, then put a Y-splitter on it and connect the machine’s regular two hoses to the splitter & hot/cold ports to feed water pressure to both which will eliminate the problem during testing.


Post# 1191538 , Reply# 34   10/8/2023 at 08:40 (256 days old) by AtomicT (Middletown, NY)        
Still not spinning…..

atomict's profile picture
I got the y splitter for the hose and hooked it up. Water is just fine.

Plugged it directly to a grounded receptacle, still no spin. Just a heavy hum.

Ugg.


Post# 1191540 , Reply# 35   10/8/2023 at 09:49 (256 days old) by AtomicT (Middletown, NY)        
Brake broken?

atomict's profile picture
So it will now engage in the spin cycle and pumping the water out, but it’s agitating - not spinning the tub! Is the brake broken?


Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy